2008 Stage 3 ROUSH - Rebirth...

[swflastang05]

What do you mean another failure...??? This is my first one!!

I mean several of us on this forum collectively, have had issues lately

Yeah, I am thinking I should give up real cars and go back to RC cars. LMAO

If cylinder #3 is damaged (compression and leak-down results), then the car is getting parked for a while.
I need a break from all this car stuff...

Its been a rough 3 years... I can't believe its been that long.

How are you doing with yours? Making any headway?

Yea I don't blame you, I know the feeling, and so does my wife, lol!

Waiting on parts to put mine back together, hopefully put it back together this weekend. If there's still problems with mine I don't know what I'll do, maybe let it sit for a little while too, lol.

 

[BeachMonkey100]

you know how nervous this makes me with my build and knowing it will be going in the car this weekend.. words can't describe nervous right now lol

 

[AutoXRacer]

Are iridium's suppose to be a good brand of plug ? Where do you buy plugs that are gapped precisely to your specs ?

I can't see the strap breaking off from gapping it. The real question is why did the porcelain let go.

Why did cyl #7 go lean ?

How do you know it went lean?

These are NGK spark plugs; Iridium IX series. They are 12mm spark plugs for use in the late generation 3V heads; which use standard type plugs.

The early generation 3V heads used the two-piece 14mm spark plug which are like the Autolite HT0.

Regarding gaps. The stock Iridium IX plug from NGK comes pre-gapped at 0.045" and the one step colder plug comes gapped at 0.032".

As you go up or down the heat range, the gaps adjust accordingly.
I'm sure there has to be special applications where you will have to gap them to your specs.

But the key point is not to open up the gap. Especially if the spark plug has been heat cycled.

I think the Iridium plugs are the best at this time. They are above the platinum plugs.

 

[AutoXRacer]

you know how nervous this makes me with my build and knowing it will be going in the car this weekend.. words can't describe nervous right now lol

Don't be nervous...
Just make sure all your "i"s are dotted and all your "t"s crossed.
Make sure everything is assembled correctly, with correct torques sequences, and that everything is timing correctly and up to par. Make sure your injectors are clean and ready for service (if they have been stored a while after being in service). That you have go fuel in the car, your pumps are working and providing enough fuel, etc...

Then make sure you absolutely have a good tuner like Lito.

Make sure not to idle the car at any moment, crank the motor for 10 mins to heat cycle and check for leaks (do not let it idle; steady 2,000 RPM).
Heat cycle it twice for 10 mins...then get on the road and load that motor!! Whether its on a dyno or road, just make sure its loaded. You will have to load and heat cycle it quite a few times. But definitely follow your engine builders and tuners recommendations on break-in.

Above all, do not let it idle. lol

Good luck!!! Let us know how it goes!!

 

[dysan]

FYI, the past 2 sets of NGK 1-step colder plugs #7554 have come to me gapped at .029 and have been perfect at that gap for me...no high boost but I suspect decent cylinder pressures being 11:1 and I have had 14psi of boost. I have been running 9psi of boost all year though to keep IAT temps under control and the car consistent.

 

[BeachMonkey100]

Don't be nervous...
Just make sure all your "i"s are dotted and all your "t"s crossed.
Make sure everything is assembled correctly, with correct torques sequences, and that everything is timing correctly and up to par. Make sure your injectors are clean and ready for service (if they have been stored a while after being in service). That you have go fuel in the car, your pumps are working and providing enough fuel, etc...

Then make sure you absolutely have a good tuner like Lito.

Make sure not to idle the car at any moment, crank the motor for 10 mins to heat cycle and check for leaks (do not let it idle; steady 2,000 RPM).
Heat cycle it twice for 10 mins...then get on the road and load that motor!! Whether its on a dyno or road, just make sure its loaded. You will have to load and heat cycle it quite a few times. But definitely follow your engine builders and tuners recommendations on break-in.

Above all, do not let it idle. lol

Good luck!!! Let us know how it goes!!

well the assembly/engine builder was me lol, everything has been checked off on a list I have as far as torque sequences and stuff. The only thing I didn't check yet were the injectors. I pulled the motor on the 9th of July and their still sitting in the rails/manifold. I might have to grab them and look at them. maybe find a injector connector and rig up a current feed to open it to get some wd40 in them. I don't know anywhere around here that flow tests injectors, possibly ford? I will have to call my buddy who works there. Other than that I haven't touched them.

Lito is my tuner! matter of fact already have my start up tune and config files ready from him!

And that is the plan, heat cycle twice until up to temp and then cool down in between while checking for leaks, etc. and then taking it out and letting her rip.

 

[swflastang05]

you know how nervous this makes me with my build and knowing it will be going in the car this weekend.. words can't describe nervous right now lol

^^What Gerald said above x2! Also as long as you degreed both cams in you should be fine. Don't let our issues make you nervous!

 

[tigerhonaker]

you know how nervous this makes me with my build and knowing it will be going in the car this weekend.. words can't describe nervous right now lol

Hey Justin,

Hey man seriously one cannot but have some concern over things regarding their prized possessions like our Mustangs.

Keep the faith buddy as all will probably go smooth and that will instantly put a "Giant-Freaking-Smile" on your face.



Terry

 

[BeachMonkey100]

^^What Gerald said above x2! Also as long as you degreed both cams in you should be fine. Don't let our issues make you nervous!

I'm running stock cams, so no degree wheel needed here lol

Hey Justin,

Hey man seriously one cannot but have some concern over things regarding their prized possessions like our Mustangs.

Keep the faith buddy as all will probably go smooth and that will instantly put a "Giant-Freaking-Smile" on your face.



Terry

That is true!

I am keeping it, but it sure it hard after getting on here sometimes and see what possibly could go wrong! But I am confident that everything should go smoothly.

The biggest debate right now is how I plan on putting the motor and trans back in the car. I don't want to do them together so I am trying to figure out the best way to get it back in. I took the trans out first then the motor, not sure if I should do the reverse order or what.

 

[swflastang05]

I would definitely put the motor back in first, then the tranny.

 

[eighty6gt]

Is it not practical to do them together?

I guess I didn't when I did my '86...

 

[one eyed willy]

i always found it much easier to have the transmission already in the car, then use the motor lift to drop the motor in and use it to move it around. its pretty difficult moving a transmission around on your back to get it to line up.

 

[tigerhonaker]

I'm running stock cams, so no degree wheel needed here lol




That is true!

I am keeping it, but it sure it hard after getting on here sometimes and see what possibly could go wrong! But I am confident that everything should go smoothly.

The biggest debate right now is how I plan on putting the motor and trans back in the car. I don't want to do them together so I am trying to figure out the best way to get it back in. I took the trans out first then the motor, not sure if I should do the reverse order or what.

Justin,

I don't want to do them together so I am trying to figure out the best way to get it back in.

I have no idea where you are doing your work so what I have to offer as information on what you are asking may not be any help at all.

But I'll give it a shot just in-case you do have a lift to do your install.

This is how my B-302 went in my Bullitt below.

The beginning removing the stock engine.

























The new B-302 engine going back in:



















Terry

 

[BeachMonkey100]

Oh if only life were that easy lol. I don't have a lift in my shop.

So most likely it will be trans in first, propped up then motor dropped in. At least that's the plan.

 

[eighty6gt]

Can't believe:

a) BM100 doesn't have a hoist
b) Terry runs skinnies at all 4 corners with all that power. What a ride that must be!

edit: rats the rear is visible in one or two photos. eh...

 

[AutoXRacer]

Take transmission out, then motor...install motor first, then transmission.

Use a transmission jack!! Not your back. Hey that rhymes. LOL

This is what I use:
http://www.harborfreight.com/450-lb-low-lift-transmission-jack-61232.html

Works like a charm.

 

[BeachMonkey100]

Can't believe:

a) BM100 doesn't have a hoist
b) Terry runs skinnies at all 4 corners with all that power. What a ride that must be!

edit: rats the rear is visible in one or two photos. eh...

I have 2 engine hoists lol, just not a 2 or 4 post lift. It's been in the plans for a while, but trying to get my grandfather and father to raise the ceiling for it. We have 10ft ceilings in our shop and both of them want something taller before a lift was installed. When I was about 12 they added another 40x40 to the shop, I said at that age we need higher ceilings they just laughed thinking I was crazy, look back now and laugh..

 

[dysan]

It has been easier for me to drop the engine and trans in together when I have done it just using an engine hoist which I borrowed from a friend.

 

[BruceH]

well the assembly/engine builder was me lol, everything has been checked off on a list I have as far as torque sequences and stuff. The only thing I didn't check yet were the injectors. I pulled the motor on the 9th of July and their still sitting in the rails/manifold. I might have to grab them and look at them. maybe find a injector connector and rig up a current feed to open it to get some wd40 in them. I don't know anywhere around here that flow tests injectors, possibly ford? I will have to call my buddy who works there. Other than that I haven't touched them.

Lito is my tuner! matter of fact already have my start up tune and config files ready from him!

And that is the plan, heat cycle twice until up to temp and then cool down in between while checking for leaks, etc. and then taking it out and letting her rip.

There is nothing to it. You did the assembly so you know it's done right. Don't spray wd40 in your injectors. As long as they were stored in a covered place I wouldn't be concerned. If they were left out in the open then I'd check for debris but that would be about it. You could always have them flowed and serviced for piece of mind but if they worked before then they should still work.

Everyone has their own kung fu for break in. I generally start it, let it get up to temp, make sure there aren't any leaks or other issues and then drive it. I try to minimize idle time so it gets on the highway right away. You will be able to feel it loosen up each time you do a moderate pull. As it loosens up it will want to rev higher each time. Try not to keep it at the same rpm, always vary the rpm. After the first run I do an oil change and cut the filter open to inspect.

Good luck, it will work just fine.

 

[AutoXRacer]

Here are some pictures of the #7 piston top...

I'm assuming these are specs from the porcelain insulator?

Here is all I can see of the exhaust valve:

The intake valves also look good from the limited viewing angles my bore-scope provides.