Planning a Ford Racing “Aluminator” Build with associated mods over the winter

[Scott]

Shorten, Build and Install an 8.8 Bullet Proof (Hopefully) Differential

This winters major mod is a shortened 8.8 differential build. My objective is to narrow the housing one inch per side to be able to “air out” the Air Lift suspension with P325/50R15’s mounted on 10” Race Stars wheels. If this doesn’t work I will move down to P295/55R15’s.

Parts list of what I already have so far:

• Differential Housing – DR3Z-4010-A
• Ford OEM Differential Bushing – B33Z-5A638-B
• BMR Suspensions Dual Durometer Differential Bushing Kit – EN001
• Moser Engineering Main Cap Stud Kit – 7116
• Ratech 8.8” Solid Pinion Bearing Spacer and Shim Pack - 4105
• FRPP Axle Girdle Cover Kit – M-4033-G2
• FRPP Ring and Pinion Installation Kit – M-4210-B1
• ARP 8.8 Ring Gear Mounting Bolts – 250-3003
• Lube locker Gasket – LLR-F880
• BMR Suspensions Control Arm Relocation Brackets – CAB005
• BMR Suspensions Upper Control Arm Mount – UCM001
• Steeda Adjustable Upper Control Arm – 555-4105

Parts list of what I need to purchase:

• Strange Engineering 2005-2010 Mustang 8.8 35 Spline Axles, C-Clip Kit, ½-20 3” Studs and Light Weight Spool – P3509F05S
• FRPP 4.10 8.8” Ring Gear and Pinion Set – M-4209-88410
• Pinion Flange – TBD
• AMSOIL and Royal Purple Gear Lube – 75W-90

Mods will include:

• Shorten Differential Housing 1” per Side
• Weld the Axle Tubes
• Paint the Axle Housing and other components
• Install the Gear Set
• And of Course Re&Re the Housing

Differential Housing – DR3Z-4010-A



Since I am using a new housing I needed to buy an OEM Differential Bushing. The new bushing casing was prepared for installation in the housing by drilling out the OEM rubber bushing insert.

OEM Bushing BR3Z-5A638-B



I used a drill, 1-3/8” and 1-1/2” hole saws to remove the bushing and then cleaned up the remaining rubber remnants with a small wire wheel. The BMR Dual Durometer Differential Bushing (# EN001) will be installed after the bushing casing is installed in the differential.



Bushing prepared for installation.





BMR Suspensions Dual Durometer Differential Bushing Kit – EN001



Moser Engineering Main Cap Stud Kit – 7116



Ratech 8.8” Solid Pinion Bearing Spacer and Shim Pack – 4105



FRPP Axle Girdle Cover Kit – M-4033-G2 (to come off my current differential)



Ford Axle Vent Hose Assembly – AR3Z-4A058-B (to come off my current differential)



FRPP Ring and Pinion Installation Kit – M-4210-B1



ARP 8.8 Ring Gear Mounting Bolts – 250-3003



Lube locker Gasket – LLR-F880



BMR Suspensions Lower Control Arm Relocation Brackets – CAB005



BMR Suspensions Upper Control Arm Mount – UCM001



Steeda Adjustable Upper Control Arm – 555-4105 (to come off my current differential)

 

[Scott]

nice scott!
I was looking at that before I bought mine, I may be looking to upgrade next season so you'll have to let me know how you like it, navigation looked a bit complicated for me.

Thanks Nick. Just putting my car to bed for it's winter mods. The navigation did not seem to bad so far. Will give it a real work out next spring and let you know.

 

[Scott]

Ordered the Strange Engineering components yesterday - Strange Engineering 2005-2010 Mustang 8.8 35 Spline Axles, C-Clip Kit, ½-20 3” Studs and Light Weight Spool – P3509F05S.

Should have an ETA for them in a couple of days.

 

[Scott]

Now have the new gear set, M-4209-88410, two more pinion nuts and another crush sleeve.



And a new Pinion Flange FR3Z-4851-A (hopefully the correct one for my Axle Exchange Drive Shaft.

 

[Scott]

Added this to the over winter mods to replace my ARH catted X-Pipe. I need all the help I can muster to break 600 RWHP next spring.

 

[BadPiggy]

Ok man...help me understand.
You're running an AirLift suspension...and installing a spool.
Why?

The AirLift can't be worth a crap on a drag strip and the spool isn't worth a crap (shouldn't even be used) on the street. They totally counter each other.

Help me understand the theory/logic...because I am clueless on this.

 

[Scott]

Ok man...help me understand.
You're running an AirLift suspension...and installing a spool.
Why?

The AirLift can't be worth a crap on a drag strip and the spool isn't worth a crap (shouldn't even be used) on the street. They totally counter each other.

Help me understand the theory/logic...because I am clueless on this.

Chris good question and you are not clueless on this, hopefully I know what I am doing sort of at least!

Car is by no means a DD or a track car it is used mostly for cars & coffee and more formal car shows. The dropped stance with the Air Lift suspension has been a hit. Prior to the Air Lift install the car looked pretty mean with Race Stars and 325/50R15 ET Streets out back. Now the ET Streets with the current differential extend beyond the fender line so I can’t air out the suspension. The shortened differential should eliminate that problem, but if not I will move down to 295/55R15’s. I here you on the spool. As others have joked about, I should put a sticker on the back that says “this vehicle makes wide right turns”. I am keeping my current differential completely intact so I can move back to it if need be.

In terms of Air Lift for drag racing, have you seen this thread?

http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=114929

 

[one eyed willy]

The AirLift can't be worth a crap on a drag strip

Help me understand the theory/logic...because I am clueless on this.

I was thinking the same with the airlift until I used mine at the track, I had zero traction issues, actually the exact opposite. launching at 5krpm it was still bogging soon as i got out of the hole from too much traction. 1.5 60 ft times with the bogging, next time i go I'm raising it to 6k. Just going from 4k to 5k dropped my 60's a good bit so 6k may be the ticket to getting a solid pass from the hole.

 

[Scott]

Still waiting patiently for the axles to arrive. In the meantime I prepared the new housing for the 15” Race Stars by trimming the sway bar brackets for clearance. Used a BMR Sway Bar Relocation kit, part number SRK001 as a template to cut the housing brackets.



Unmodified bracket (driver’s side illustrated).



Relocation plate installed for use as a guide to trimming the housing bracket. With the housing in the cradle the easiest way to make the cuts was with a hack saw.



Bracket trimmed. Surprise surprise it was a lot easier to cut this time than it was the last time when the housing was in the car.

 

[Scott]

CHE Axle Brace

I currently have a BMR Xtreme Anti-Roll Bar installed on the car and when the two differential links are attached the ride is XTREME, you feel every bump in the rear. In building the new differential I want to maintain maximum flexibility and be able to configure for use of the BMR Anti-Roll Bar, Steeda Sway Bar and the yet to be released BMR Watts Link. I also have a CHE Axle Brace, while it is not compatible with the Anti-Roll Bar it is with my Steeda Sway Bar. Still to be determined if it will coexist with BMR’s Watts Link, but likely will not. So to achieve this maximum flexibility I am preparing the housing to accept the CHE Axle Brace. This means marking and drilling the required holes for the install. Two 9/16” holes in the center section (in my case two ½” holes with a little grinding or filing for that perfect fit). Then the two required 3/8” holes in the driver’s side control arm mount. For the center section holes I printed (full size not fit to page) and cut out the templates provided with the CHE install instructions.

Housing in cradle ready to mark, punch and drill.



Templates placed on housing.



Holes were center punched, a 1/8” pilot hole to start things off, then a ¼”bit, followed by a 3/8” bit and finishing off with a ½” drill bit.



The CHE Brace was installed loosely and the position of the two 3/8” holes on the driver’s side center punched. Then the holes were drilled in the following sequence 1/8”, ¼” and lastly 3/8”.



Finally the brace was trial fitted on the driver’s side using the two new 3/8” holes.



Brace temporarily installed in the new center section holes.



A view of the installed brace from the bottom.

 

[ZmanM3]

My Che axel brace works great with my Steeda watts link.

 

[Scott]

My Che axel brace works great with my Steeda watts link.

This good to know, thanks!

 

[Scott]

Strange 35 Spline Axles and Spool

Picked up the Strange Engineering kit, part number P3509F05S last Thursday. The kit contains a 35 Spline Spool, assembled Axles with optional Reluctor Rings and Brake Caliper Mounts.

35 spline chrome-molly light weight spool.



Included with the axles are: Reluctor Rings, Bearing Sleeve / Reluctor Ring Adapters, Safetey Hub Outer Half, Axle Seal, Tapered Axle Bearing, Wedding Ring, Caliper Mount O-Ring and Wheel Studs. Shorter driver’s side axle on the left.







Brake Caliper Mounts, Driver’s side on the left part number A1098A, Passenger side on the right part number A1098B and the Hardware Kit used to fasten the Brake Caliper Mounts to the OEM Housing Ends. Note the provision for the OEM ABS Sensors in the Caliper Mounts.



Next up is preparing the housing ends to accept the Brake Caliper Mounts. It appears to be a little easier than it once was as the Caliper Mounts are designed to mate flush with the Backing Plate Register of the Housing. From searching some of the earlier C-Clip Eliminator install forum threads, earlier versions required that the Housing Snout be cut 1/16” from the Backing Plate Register.

But before I can cut the Housing Snout I need to remove the OEM Bearing and Seal. I have access to a suitable Axle Bearing Puller but need to beg borrow or steal a 5LB Slide Hammer.

 

[one eyed willy]

are you having the tubes welded?

 

[Scott]

Paul I plan to. MattD recommended the chassis shop that narrowed his housing and I believe they welded his axle tubes as well, but I need to confirm.

While the BMR Anti-Roll bar will not work with a CHE Axle Brace, I wanted to keep my options open and it was a lot easier to drill the necessary holes and fit the CHE brace with the differential out of the car.

 

[05stroker]

Picked up the Strange Engineering kit, part number P3509F05S last Thursday. The kit contains a 35 Spline Spool, assembled Axles with optional Reluctor Rings and Brake Caliper Mounts.

35 spline chrome-molly light weight spool.



Included with the axles are: Reluctor Rings, Bearing Sleeve / Reluctor Ring Adapters, Safetey Hub Outer Half, Axle Seal, Tapered Axle Bearing, Wedding Ring, Caliper Mount O-Ring and Wheel Studs. Shorter driver’s side axle on the left.







Brake Caliper Mounts, Driver’s side on the left part number A1098A, Passenger side on the right part number A1098B and the Hardware Kit used to fasten the Brake Caliper Mounts to the OEM Housing Ends. Note the provision for the OEM ABS Sensors in the Caliper Mounts.



Next up is preparing the housing ends to accept the Brake Caliper Mounts. It appears to be a little easier than it once was as the Caliper Mounts are designed to mate flush with the Backing Plate Register of the Housing. From searching some of the earlier C-Clip Eliminator install forum threads, earlier versions required that the Housing Snout be cut 1/16” from the Backing Plate Register.

But before I can cut the Housing Snout I need to remove the OEM Bearing and Seal. I have access to a suitable Axle Bearing Puller but need to beg borrow or steal a 5LB Slide Hammer.

Do they not use the rubber o ring anymore? That is what the 1/16" lip was for.

 

[Scott]

Do they not use the rubber o ring anymore? That is what the 1/16" lip was for.

No, only one O-Ring used now, between the safety hub assembly and the caliper mount. The current Strange instructions say “apply a thick bead of RTV silicone between the housing end face and inboard side of the caliper mount.

 

[05stroker]

No, only one O-Ring used now, between the safety hub assembly and the caliper mount. The current Strange instructions say “apply a thick bead of RTV silicone between the housing end face and inboard side of the caliper mount.

Good to know.

 

[Scott]

Ran into a problem, the inner pinion bearing in the M-4210-B1 install kit is too small for the DR3Z-4010-A housing that I have.

See this Tech thread for pictures. http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=118775

What is the correct inner pinion bearing for the DR3Z-4010-A housing?

 

[Scott]

Thanks to drive_55_not I have the information needed and the correct inner pinion bearing on order.

"The 2013 GT500 went to a larger pinion bearing ... 6L2Z-4625-AB

Since you have the race, Timken P/N for the bearing is M-802048 ... Used with race M802011"