swflastang05's build thread

[BruceH]

It's disassembled now? If so have you taken a machinists straight edge to the heads and block deck? IIRC any more that .0015" over a 4" length is cause for rejection.

For some reason I can't find the section with head and block deck requirements for straightness.

Edit: It's listed under disassembly, lol. .001" over a 1.5" square is the max allowed. http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=162&viewfile=Engine.pdf

 

[swflastang05]

It's disassembled now? If so have you taken a machinists straight edge to the heads and block deck? IIRC any more that .0015" over a 4" length is cause for rejection.

For some reason I can't find the section with head and block deck requirements for straightness.

Edit: It's listed under disassembly, lol. .001" over a 1.5" square is the max allowed. http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=162&viewfile=Engine.pdf

Yes it is (was) disassembled, and yes I thoroughly checked the block and heads with a machinist straight edge, everything was good. I ended up reinstalling the old head gaskets for the water test rather than waste good new ones. After reinstalling the heads and various cooling system components necessary for the test I pressurized the system and found it to still have a significant leak. The bad news is the leak was coming from somewhere below the heads. After messing with it for about an hour I finally confirmed where the water is coming from with a bore scope. The water is wicking through the aluminum block in the oil return chamber near the bottom of the #3 and #4 cylinders. As always sorry for the crappy pics and video, I'm obviously not a photographer.
This is the view from the scope entering the oil drain back chamber from the back of the block, the hole behind the top of the rear main seal housing and cover, about 3 inches inside looking toward #4.


This video is actually sideways, it should be rotated 90 degrees right


I can't tell if it's a crack or if it's just leaking through somehow but at the end of the day it doesn't matter this block is done. This shit is getting old two blocks in less than two years! The first one was my fault but there's no way I made that mistake again this time.

 

[go302]

Head stud torque?

 

[pics06gtstang]

but at the end of the day it doesn't matter this block is done. This shit is getting old two blocks in less than two years! The first one was my fault but there's no way I made that mistake again this time.

Hmmmmm , block filler !
concrete the bitch .

 

[swflastang05]

Head stud torque?

100 lb ft. - there's no way I cracked the block from that though since all studs were backed out 3+ turns before tightening and I know they didn't turn more than a half turn or so max.

Hmmmmm , block filler !
concrete the bitch .

Don't tempt me!

 

[swflastang05]

Here's an interesting shot, one you don't see that often. You can easily understand how the big bore motors make so much more power by unshrouding the valves. Has me thinking about going that route.

 

[lito]

Here's an interesting shot, one you don't see that often. You can easily understand how the big bore motors make so much more power by unshrouding the valves. Has me thinking about going that route.

They do, among other things, this is one of the reasons I am inclined to think my current coyote bore size works so well and bigger valves on 3Vs haven't shown important improvements.

 

[05stroker]

Here's an interesting shot, one you don't see that often. You can easily understand how the big bore motors make so much more power by unshrouding the valves. Has me thinking about going that route.

What heads do you have?

 

[Wild White Pony]

Bummer you were doing so well with the et's, your build and those results are still an amazing success, now just getting a block to hold that anger. I had a leak after a shortblock install about 4 years ago coming up through a head stud, was able to stop it with some thread sealer but I know it's only a matter of time it will crack and open up. Have you considered the steel boss block as an alternative to the aluminum for your replacement? I've really wanted to hear that it is a good choice but have not heard or seen anyone post some big numbers under boost with that block, it would nice to see an example of one running over 800rwhp with boost so anyone who has please chim in.

Good luck with the rebuild I know you won't let this stop you, it's just going make you determined to get it battle ready before summer kicks off.

 

[swflastang05]

What heads do you have?

Stock 05 heads (ported)

Bummer you were doing so well with the et's, your build and those results are still an amazing success, now just getting a block to hold that anger. I had a leak after a shortblock install about 4 years ago coming up through a head stud, was able to stop it with some thread sealer but I know it's only a matter of time it will crack and open up. Have you considered the steel boss block as an alternative to the aluminum for your replacement? I've really wanted to hear that it is a good choice but have not heard or seen anyone post some big numbers under boost with that block, it would nice to see an example of one running over 800rwhp with boost so anyone who has please chim in.

Good luck with the rebuild I know you won't let this stop you, it's just going make you determined to get it battle ready before summer kicks off.

Thanks man, yes I was considering the Boss block but don't want to spend that much right now since I would need new pistons, balancing, ARP hardware, etc it would be at least $5,000 to do that so I decided to go with an 05+ Mustang block. You're right this will not slow me down, maybe for a few weeks but that's it. I hope to have everything back together in time to run True Street @ Bradenton in March.

And I also learned today why I think this block failed, that is because it was NOT an 05+ Mustang block, but rather an older Explorer block and therefore not as strong, it just wasn't up to the task of holding the kind of power I was throwing at it. I just bought another block from Jim at JDM that he "guarantees 1,000% came from an 05-10 Mustang" so it should be good this time. Hopefully this one will hold up for awhile, I know there are plenty of people out there making more power than me with those blocks without issues.

 

[lskiller]

Wow, that sucks - how did you tell it's from an Explorer?

Good luck with the new one. Good 3v aluminum blocks are going to get scarcer I guess. When mine finally goes I'll prob bite the weight bullet and go with an iron block. I do like that sleeved block JDM was selling but I think that was a one-off deal.

Look forward to your new times with the new engine!

Stock 05 heads (ported)
Thanks man, yes I was considering the Boss block but don't want to spend that much right now since I would need new pistons, balancing, ARP hardware, etc it would be at least $5,000 to do that so I decided to go with an 05+ Mustang block. You're right this will not slow me down, maybe for a few weeks but that's it. I hope to have everything back together in time to run True Street @ Bradenton in March.

And I also learned today why I think this block failed, that is because it was NOT an 05+ Mustang block, but rather an older Explorer block and therefore not as strong, it just wasn't up to the task of holding the kind of power I was throwing at it. I just bought another block from Jim at JDM that he "guarantees 1,000% came from an 05-10 Mustang" so it should be good this time. Hopefully this one will hold up for awhile, I know there are plenty of people out there making more power than me with those blocks without issues.

 

[swflastang05]

Wow, that sucks - how did you tell it's from an Explorer?

Good luck with the new one. Good 3v aluminum blocks are going to get scarcer I guess. When mine finally goes I'll prob bite the weight bullet and go with an iron block. I do like that sleeved block JDM was selling but I think that was a one-off deal.

Look forward to your new times with the new engine!

You can tell from the codes stamped on the side of the block near where the starter goes. The last two letters show that info. RF 32LE 6015 CB. The 05+ Mustang blocks end with "CC". I knew the failed block was different since the timing cover bolts didn't line up but I had no idea it wasn't nearly as strong, they look almost identical. Another expensive lesson. And yes the 05+ 3v blocks are getting harder to find, I paid a lot more for the one I ordered today than previous ones lol. I really didn't want the extra 80 lbs at the front of my car from an iron block, nor the cost that would be more than triple what this rebuild will cost.

 

[morrowstang95]

I had a good 05 + block just sitting around with new ARP studs and side bolts. Went with the boss block and wont be needing it.

 

[swflastang05]

I had a good 05 + block just sitting around with new ARP studs and side bolts. Went with the boss block and wont be needing it.

Wanna sell it? With my track record lately I wouldn't mind having a good spare.

 

[go302]

I know you bought a new block already and understand the boss block is pretty expensive but it would be so worth it!

 

[loots06]

Sucks your going through this again..hope your back on the road again.

 

[morrowstang95]

Yeah sure will. Its got new ARP main studs for windage tray and ARP side bolts. 600 plus shipping.

 

[swflastang05]

I know you bought a new block already and understand the boss block is pretty expensive but it would be so worth it!

I seriously thought about it but it's not just the block it's all new ARP hardware, pistons, if I'm going do that might as well do billet rods, re-balancing, not to mention 80 lbs added to the front of the car. I can say one thing though if I have any more problems with aluminum blocks I'll definitely go that route!

Sucks your going through this again..hope your back on the road again.

Yea me too!

Yeah sure will. Its got new ARP main studs for windage tray and ARP side bolts. 600 plus shipping.

I'll shoot you a PM thanks.

 

[swflastang05]

I'll be making a a few very minor changes this time around, one of them is heater delete. I know that sounds crazy but I'm in south Florida where we don't really need heat, and I only drive my car when it's nice out anyway. To do this I removed the hard line adapter from the coolant cross over and tapped it for a -10an plug. I'll be doing the same thing on the block behind the water pump.



Also got a little creative today and decided to display my broken block art collection, gotta make the best of it somehow right! And no, there are no mirrors in these pics lol

 

[05stroker]

I'm guessing the 90* fittings on the cross over are head cooling mods?