TREMEC T56 Magnum S197 Transmission

[AutoXRacer]

All my issues with the premium oils have been cold performance.

Redine D4
Royal Purple Syncromesh
Driven STF
Mobil 1

They all performed well while warm and hot conditions. But when cold, all but Mobil 1 were notchy.

I currently have the Driven STF and 2nd gear is notchy.
Gets nice and smooth with oil is hot.

I should add I have an early build T-56M XL.

 

[DiMora]

I have tried numerous expensive fluids and I am hear to say the best oil...that makes the transmission shift smoothly is Mobil 1.

On my 3650 I used Mobil 1 then switched to Synchromesh...I liked the SM better on the 3650...but I am running Mobil 1 in the T56 and love it...and it has been recommended to me as better than the Synchromesh for THIS T56 tranny by many people. 2nd is notchy (and I might grind if not careful) when cold, but once warm, it is like butter. I just avoid flogging the car when cold...which is a good practice anyway.

 

[lskiller]

I had the best luck in my 3650 and Magnum XL with Synchromesh. Funny, Tremec's website says dont' use Mobil 1 but you call them and they say use Mobil 1. The local Tremec warranty admin told me he only uses Synchromesh in his so I went with that.

 

[screaming_pc]

Oh that is a bad idea!!! Imagine braking into a turn, getting your shifting pattern wrong, enter reverse, and BOOM!!!
Plus think about how many cycles that solenoid will go through every time to press the brake pedal...

If your going from 6th to 5th in a turn fast enough to brake, you might need to rethink the way you drive.

I can think of one place, Talladega Superspeedway, but I doubt he drives on it that much.

 

[Devcon 7]

I'm going to try synchromesh I guess, called tremec and they pretty much told me to try whatever. Also said the only reason why the mobile is the only synthetic they recommend is because thats the only one they tried...ugghh so confusing.

 

[lito]

I would do it without doubt, pennzoil synchromesh, may be notchy while cold but if it gets smooth once hot, it will be an improvement. Please report your results.

 

[Devcon 7]

I would do it without doubt, pennzoil synchromesh, may be notchy while cold but if it gets smooth once hot, it will be an improvement. Please report your results.

Will do, thanks for the recommendation. Ill be sure to report back

 

[Devcon 7]

Put syncromesh in, works great!

 

[Graham19922011]

Need a little help if possible. Finished the install earlier today and when you put it in gear it pulls forward like the clutch isn't stopping the car. It does not shift smoothly what so ever and is a huge hassle to drive so I parked it and am at a loss. I pumped the clutch about 50-70 times and the pedal feels about the same as stock honestly but the description for the clutch is light pedal effort. It's not a name brand (spec, McLeod, exedy). American powertrain has a company make their clutches the sell with the kit. Throwing bearing was in good shape before install with no issues before. And everything seemed to be good before I install. Anybody have any information at all? Maybe have it bled from master cylinder, may be air inside the system still? Could the throw out bearing be "bad"? Possibly a clutch issue?


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[AutoXRacer]

I would say clutch or install issue.

Did you get the right clutch?

 

[Graham19922011]

Yeah I had them choose the option over the phone. I may regret cheaping out on a non-name brand clutch. Really hope that is a simple issue


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[skwerl]

Clutch isn't bled yet. It's not fully disengaging when you press the clutch pedal, is it?

 

[Graham19922011]

No it's not skwerl. I would think that pumping the sin outta the clutch would have done it (50 times or so)


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[Graham19922011]

Should I bleed it from the brake reservoir?


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[skwerl]

Ford in their infinite wisdom deemed a bleeder on the slave unnecessary. So no, 50 pumps is not enough. You're just getting started. More like 400-500 pumps.

 

[hockeygod]

Last time I did my clutch I used a cheap vaccum bleeder from auto zone and attached the end of the hose to a black sink drain plug from hone depot. Remove the cap from the break reservoir and press the drain stop into the top creating an airtight seal. Next pump the hell out of it. Do this several times until the clutch feels correctm

 

[Graham19922011]

Hopefully this will work, after I get off work in the morning I'll try pumping it a lot more. If that still doesn't fix my issue I'll try to do your trick hockeygod


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[Graham19922011]

Quick question.. The reservoir seems to be overfilled, could that cause anything like this?


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[Graham19922011]

Update: took the cap off and pumped the clutch probably another 150 times or so. Car hasn't run since yesterday after noon when it was still pulling in gear with clutch pressed. I cranked the car and the car didn't pull at all.... Then about 45 minutes later after regular driving it went back to being an absolute pain to go in 1-2 and car was back to pulling with clutch pressed. I'm at a loss why it would work one second then 45 minutes later would start doing it again.


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[skwerl]

Because there is still air in the system and air compresses, hydraulic fluid doesn't. It takes a long time for that air to work its way out when Ford refuses to give us a bleeder screw. The air needs to migrate its way back up the line and out the master cylinder. Idiotic design IMO. The good news is that it will continue to get better with use.