TREMEC T56 Magnum S197 Transmission

Juice

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Yes, I could not find the correct pitch retainer.
I got a retainer and just drilled out the bore smooth. Then tightened the nut under the retainer, sandwiching the retainer between the shift knob and the lock nut.
There was only a few threads in the aluminum retainer anyway. No issues 3 years now.
 

Bingo

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Yes, I could not find the correct pitch retainer.
I got a retainer and just drilled out the bore smooth. Then tightened the nut under the retainer, sandwiching the retainer between the shift knob and the lock nut.
There was only a few threads in the aluminum retainer anyway. No issues 3 years now.
That's a good idea. I was thinking of buying one, boring it, and then re-tapping with the proper tap, but that seems a cheaper, faster alternative.
 

cavero

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I reused the shift boot retainer that came with my UPR composite shift knob, it's just two collars w/ set screws that you sandwich the boot between. The jam nut is from MGW (I had to call them to get just the nut by itself w/o a shift knob). I'm sure you could find some cheap boot retainers like UPR uses on ebay or maybe you could call them (worked for me w/ MGW)
IMAG2784.jpg
 

cavero

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As far as the cruise control issue goes (yeah I know that's a year old conversation), I have the same issue, only works in 4th and 6th. I data logged and it recognizes 4th as gear '4' (same 1:1 ratio as the 3650), 6th as '5', and 5th as '0'. From what I've read, you need to put in the updated gear ratios in your tune because if your speed and RPM don't match, then the PCM doesn't think you're in gear and won't let you engage cruise control. I had my shop put in the updated gear ratios but no dice. I also read something about an n/v ratio used by the cc that needs to be updated but can't find anymore details. Best reading I found was on SVT Performance but it was geared towards an MT82 to T56 swap, where you needed a box (like Abbot or Dakota digital) to convert the VSS output. That's not necessary on a 3650 swap though
 

Juice

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As far as the cruise control issue goes (yeah I know that's a year old conversation), I have the same issue, only works in 4th and 6th. I data logged and it recognizes 4th as gear '4' (same 1:1 ratio as the 3650), 6th as '5', and 5th as '0'. From what I've read, you need to put in the updated gear ratios in your tune because if your speed and RPM don't match, then the PCM doesn't think you're in gear and won't let you engage cruise control. I had my shop put in the updated gear ratios but no dice. I also read something about an n/v ratio used by the cc that needs to be updated but can't find anymore details. Best reading I found was on SVT Performance but it was geared towards an MT82 to T56 swap, where you needed a box (like Abbot or Dakota digital) to convert the VSS output. That's not necessary on a 3650 swap though
Correct. The transmission section of the tune needs to be updated with gear ratios. The transmission type may need to be updated also.
 

Norm Peterson

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So the biggest operational downside of the TR3650 to Magnum XL swap is that cruise control gets a bit stupid? Eh, no big deal, never use CC anyway.

Hopefully there aren't any other little snags like that . . .


Notm
 

cavero

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So the biggest operational downside of the TR3650 to Magnum XL swap is that cruise control gets a bit stupid? Eh, no big deal, never use CC anyway.

Hopefully there aren't any other little snags like that . . .


Notm
Only other snag I can think of is the reverse lockout solenoid. You either wire it up to the brake switch or you need a separate box that will only release the lockout if you're under 5mph
 

Midlife Crises

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I just wired the reverse lockout to the accessory power port in the console and put a button on the shifter. Easy as can be. The speedo and reverse lights were plug and play and my CC works in 4th and 6th but not 5th. Someday someone will post they have actually fixed the 5th gear CC issue and that will be cool because I use 5th a great deal.
 

Norm Peterson

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Only other snag I can think of is the reverse lockout solenoid. You either wire it up to the brake switch or you need a separate box that will only release the lockout if you're under 5mph
I just wired the reverse lockout to the accessory power port in the console and put a button on the shifter.
Thanks, guys.

I'm assuming you'd want the solenoid energized only when you want reverse, with the its normal state being de-energized so that the reverse lockout defaults to "locked out". I'm sure I can figure something out.


Norm
 

Juice

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Hooking up the reverse lock-out is not mandatory. It is not a positive lock-out. You can get into reverse without 12v to the solenoid. Just push the stick over.
 

Norm Peterson

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^^^ interesting . . . at the very least that means I wouldn't have to be in any hurry to hook it up. Or I could either ignore it entirely or come up with a strictly mechanical alternative.


Norm
 

Juice

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I have been running mine for 3 years now. Never had the solenoid hooked up, did not modify anything on the trans. The instructions actually tell you that you can "push through" and get into reverse without any ill effects.

IMO, it is not a true "lock-out". Reverse location is the only thing I don't care for on the magnum xl. Should be to the left of first, or the right of sixth. Guess it is a design limitation.
 

Norm Peterson

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As long as the solenoid offers noticeable resistance - which I would expect in order for it to have a normally de-energized position - I think I'll be good to go.

Especially if I retain a somewhat longer throw for reducing shift lever effort and minimizing notchiness. I'll probably retain the 3650 shift knob (maybe I'll tweak the gearshift pattern on it, maybe I won't), as I like it much better than the cue-ball style.


Norm
 

1950StangJump$

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Norm, it would be pretty difficult to accidentally hit reverse with the "lockout" that's there. Takes a good amount of strength to overcome.

I was not comfortable using the brake switch idea to deactivate it. It is conceivable that you can be on the brakes while going to 5th gear for a split second and accidentally hit reverse. Especially for a road racer like you, Norm.

The solenoid, which deactivates the lock only when under 5 MPH is not hard to install and worth the $, IMO.
 

cavero

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Norm, it would be pretty difficult to accidentally hit reverse with the "lockout" that's there. Takes a good amount of strength to overcome.

I was not comfortable using the brake switch idea to deactivate it. It is conceivable that you can be on the brakes while going to 5th gear for a split second and accidentally hit reverse. Especially for a road racer like you, Norm.

The solenoid, which deactivates the lock only when under 5 MPH is not hard to install and worth the $, IMO.
I keep telling myself I'm going to get the box for 5 mph, just never get around to it. I'm pretty careful about going into 5th if my foots on the brake, but a lot of times I either take my foot off the brake long enough to get it in gear or avoid downshifting to 5th when braking all together. the box would definitely be easier

As long as the solenoid offers noticeable resistance - which I would expect in order for it to have a normally de-energized position - I think I'll be good to go.

Especially if I retain a somewhat longer throw for reducing shift lever effort and minimizing notchiness. I'll probably retain the 3650 shift knob (maybe I'll tweak the gearshift pattern on it, maybe I won't), as I like it much better than the cue-ball style.


Norm
the t56 and 3650 have different threads, you might have to drill out the stock shifter knob and do a helicoil to make it work
 

cavero

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I just wired the reverse lockout to the accessory power port in the console and put a button on the shifter. Easy as can be. The speedo and reverse lights were plug and play and my CC works in 4th and 6th but not 5th. Someday someone will post they have actually fixed the 5th gear CC issue and that will be cool because I use 5th a great deal.

thats a pretty good idea :waytogo:
 

Norm Peterson

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the t56 and 3650 have different threads, you might have to drill out the stock shifter knob and do a helicoil to make it work
I have no problem fabricating an adapter piece to go from the shift lever from one transmission to the knob from a different shifter - it wouldn't be much different than the little piece I made to lengthen a MGW shifter to reduce the notchiness that is almost unavoidable in short-throw shifters, and I'm probably going to want to lengthen the XL's shift lever a bit anyway.

full


I did clean up the installation a little, but I'm OK with my occasional track toy not looking as pretty as the car show crowd might prefer. Look close in the following pic and in the video and you might see that I also scuffed a lot of the 'shine' off of the 'bright' eyeball vent, tach, and speedometer surrounds.

full



Even on the track, I'm not into speed shifting or powershifting so the extra amount of throw is not a handicap (I really don't even notice it).



Norm
 

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