What have you done to your mustang today?

bunits19714

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Nice on the retune and pulley upgrade. Is the 2.3L Whipple a version of the TVS that multi manufacturers use or is it a smaller version of the 2.9L- Just curious, and if it is a TVS variant, what made you choose the Whipple model over a Vmp, or a Rousch cased variant.
 

Gabe

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Nice on the retune and pulley upgrade. Is the 2.3L Whipple a version of the TVS that multi manufacturers use or is it a smaller version of the 2.9L- Just curious, and if it is a TVS variant, what made you choose the Whipple model over a Vmp, or a Rousch cased variant.

Thanks!
The Whipple is a twin-screw design, as they call it.
The TVS blower uses 4-lobes on the rotors, and it's a huge improvement over the older Eaton blowers which were 3 lobes.
The Whipple or the TVS are both great designs, they both can provide plenty of power and even at my new power level I have plenty left if I wanted to push this blower more.
But with a stock bottom-end, I'm done for now.
As far as why I went with the Whipple over others, I wanted the same kit that Ford uses, and that meant the Ford Racing kit which is basically a Roush kit with the Whipple on top instead of the Roush blower.
Lower manifold, heat exchanger, they're all the same as on a Roush kit.
My fiancee has a '13-'14 GT500 TVS on her Shelby, and that blower is awesome. Stock pulley on there (the elbow is supposedly ported a bit) and it put her from 551 rwhp with the factory blower to 643 rwhp with the TVS.
And we can still go to a smaller pulley and get more out of it.
To show you the different rotor designs between the Whipple and the TVS-style, here you go:

The Whipple:

ford_mustang_kit_xsec_angle.292_800.jpg


The TVS:

2015-10-24_06-52-33.jpg
 

mpm_1

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Discovered this little surprise on the stock crank damper

Car suddenly quit making boost and developed a slight belt squeal

Opened the hood to find the rubber bond had failed and the inertia ring / crank pulley had set itself free – and left a burn mark on the sway bar for good measure

Amazingly, the belt walked over the pulley’s rear guide lip and right on to the damper hub

 

skwerl

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Discovered this little surprise on the stock crank damper

Car suddenly quit making boost and developed a slight belt squeal
Opened the hood to find the rubber bond had failed and the inertia ring / crank pulley had set itself free – and left a burn mark on the sway bar for good measure
Amazingly, the belt walked over the pulley’s rear guide lip and right on to the damper hub



I spun mine on my Bullitt at the race track, threw the belt but didn't come completely off.
 

travelers

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Discovered this little surprise on the stock crank damper

Car suddenly quit making boost and developed a slight belt squeal

Opened the hood to find the rubber bond had failed and the inertia ring / crank pulley had set itself free – and left a burn mark on the sway bar for good measure

Amazingly, the belt walked over the pulley’s rear guide lip and right on to the damper hub


It looks like time for a ATI dampener. That's what I put on when I installed the Whipple.
 

doogie

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Installed a new one piece painted radiator cover (yeah, the lighting sucks). I need pick up a couple black bolts as I not want to deal with the little caps that came with the kit.

Rad%20cover%202_zpshusc4y14.jpg


Rad%20cover_zpssec4y2sm.jpg
 

Gabe

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Car's stalling when coming to a stop, seems to only be doing it when the A/C is on.
Anybody have any idea if there's a separate setting to command idle with AC on vs off?
 

travelers

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Car's stalling when coming to a stop, seems to only be doing it when the A/C is on.
Anybody have any idea if there's a separate setting to command idle with AC on vs off?

In the HP Tuners book I read it does have a separate setting. I haven't read the SCT book yet.
 

Gabe

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In the HP Tuners book I read it does have a separate setting. I haven't read the SCT book yet.

Makes sense.
Just drove the car about 15 minutes, A/C off it was fine the whole time.
I put the A/C on once while cruising, pushed in the clutch and the revs went down to about 200 before the bounced up to about 800.
With the A/C off, it would just go down to idle speed then maybe go up another couple hundred since I was going 40-45 mph
 

skwerl

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Gabe, when you start the car next time, turn on the AC and let it idle without touching the gas for 60-90 seconds.
 

Gabe

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Gabe, when you start the car next time, turn on the AC and let it idle without touching the gas for 60-90 seconds.

I did that earlier, before the drive to the restaurant where the car still stalled about 3-4 times.
I started it, let it get up to about 170-180 degrees, let it idle for another 1-2 minutes, turned the AC on, idled for another 1-2 minutes, turned the AC off, idled for another 1-2 minutes, then turned the AC Max on and idled for another 1-2 minutes.
Seemed fine about a half hour later when we left heading for the restaurant, but about 3 minutes or so after we left it stalled again, then did it a few more times, until I thought of shutting off the AC to see what would happen, and it didn't stall anymore with the AC off.
 

skwerl

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Then call your tuner and have him fix the tune. If he's any good he can fix it and send you a revised tune just based on your description of the issue. At least that is how it works with my tuner.
 

Gabe

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Then call your tuner and have him fix the tune. If he's any good he can fix it and send you a revised tune just based on your description of the issue. At least that is how it works with my tuner.

Sent them an email last night letting them know it's OK with the A/C off.
Hoping to get a revised tune today.
Got a long cruise with the club coming tomorrow, would like to have the option to run the A/C
 

Gabe

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Went on a 2 hour cruise with almost 20 other Mustangs from the NH Mustang Club today.
I didn't take any pics but I have a few that a couple other people have taken.
Sorry, they're cellphone pics, I tried to edit them as best as I could:

20160821_KancCruise1.jpg


20160821_KancCruise2.jpg


20160821_KancCruise3.jpg


20160821_KancCruise4.jpg


20160821_KancCruise5.jpg


20160821_KancCruise6.jpg


20160821_KancCruise7.jpg


20160821_KancCruise8.jpg



And I finally have a rolling shot of my car ^^^
Just wish the whole car was in the pic :/


.
 

redfirepearlgt

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Found a way to cross thread a rear lug nut stud while switcing back to street wheels yesterday. Tried cleaning the thread by chasing it with 1/2-20NF die but was too far gone and removed too much material leaving the threads to thin to hold any torque. Oh well, at least its only an 8.00 per stud fix. Beat it out, pull another one in.
 

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