T56 Magnum XL Trans Cooler

NitroTy19

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Hello! I tried searching for this topic but couldn’t find it anywhere & apologize if I missed it. I have a T56 Magnum XL swapped 2010 GT that I’m starting to track more frequently, however I noticed the transmission tends to get hot pretty quick after a few runs of hard driving, has anyone installed a Trans cooler on their T56? I know it has plugs so a cooler can be fitted but I was looking to see if anyone else has installed one & how they went about routing lines & what parts they used? I was thinking somewhere along the lines of a Mishimoto auto trans cooler & some sort of external fluid pump would possibly work? Any help & guidance would be greatly appreciated! [emoji16]
-Tyler


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axis101

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Hi Nitro, Investigation into the particulars of what lube is in the trans, your trans actual heat when at its highest, and install a trans temp gauge. This is if you are pushing it hard. You might be just fine. Also, if no one here has input. I’d ask at the track...or call a qualified track prep shop. Such as Kenny Brown, or one of the many others. Just remembered. Check a Boss trans scoop, I believe the Leguna Seca came stock with them and they are offered in a couple catalogs.
 

Juice

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I bet the magnum.gets no hotter than the trans you took out.
The shifter is attached directly to the magnum so you just think it gets hotter. Let me guess, the shift boot retainer gets hot?
 

Midlife Crises

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I see Tic Performance offers different levels of cooling and oil circulation for the 6060 and T56 Magnum. Including adding internal spray bars to direct oil to specific points.
 

Vorshlag-Fair

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What are your transmission fluid temps, exactly? You DO have a gauge on the fluid, yes?

IMG_2997-L.jpg


Also, what fluid are you using? The T56 Magnum should not be "running hot"... give us some data and we can know where to have to go next. :)
 

JJ427R

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I don't have the T56 but do have some experience with coolers. My 2010 Roush has the 5r55 auto, I do track days with that and started having trans overheating issues almost immediately and that point my trans will then start shifting itself into overdrive, even though turned off.
I added a Mishimoto Auto Trans cooler with a fan and had it mounted in front of my radiator to the top right hand side of the radiator. I also added a switch inside the car to be able to turn the fan on and off as well a Boss 302 gauge pod with a trans temp Gauge. Turns out the fan on that trans cooler was causing negative back pressure on my radiator and actually causing my engine temp to get hotter. Pulled that one and installed a B&M Racing 20,500 BTU cooler without a fan in the same location. It helps keep the temp down longer, but it will still start to overheat my trans after about 3 sessions on track.

I have also added a Kenny Brown/Fluidyne Triple Flow Triple Pass radiator and the same heat exchanger with dual fans. Also Roush 7 bar front grille and MMD hood vents to get additional air flowing under the hood.
My trans temp has been up to 250*, at roughly 220* it starts shifting into overdrive. Ran at Road America 4th of July weekend and I was between 210 and 230 by the end of every session, but surprisingly this year it never shifted into overdrive, even though outside temps were also very hot. My supercharger also has a lot to do with all the extra heat they create, but I have never really had any problem with the engine overheating, just the trans. I also recommend you take axis101 advise above and call Kenny Brown and see if they can provide some more info on cooling the T56. Not the same situation but hope this helps a little.

I've now run almost 60,000 miles and 30 track days and my trans has not failed yet!!! Knock on wood.... ;)
Found a couple pics of how cooler is mounted.
34822164_444980422614691_6019426691460366336_n.jpg 34909203_444980639281336_5973474205000269824_n.jpg
 
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Juice

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I don't have the T56 but do have some experience with coolers. My 2010 Roush has the 5r55 auto, I do track days with that and started having trans overheating issues almost immediately and that point my trans will then start shifting itself into overdrive, even though turned off.
I added a Mishimoto Auto Trans cooler with a fan and had it mounted in front of my radiator to the top right hand side of the radiator. I also added a switch inside the car to be able to turn the fan on and off as well a Boss 302 gauge pod with a trans temp Gauge. Turns out the fan on that trans cooler was causing negative back pressure on my radiator and actually causing my engine temp to get hotter. Pulled that one and installed a B&M Racing 20,500 BTU cooler without a fan in the same location. It helps keep the temp down longer, but it will still start to overheat my trans after about 3 sessions on track.

I have also added a Kenny Brown/Fluidyne Triple Flow Triple Pass radiator and the same heat exchanger with dual fans. Also Roush 7 bar front grille and MMD hood vents to get additional air flowing under the hood.
My trans temp has been up to 250*, at roughly 220* it starts shifting into overdrive. Ran at Road America 4th of July weekend and I was between 210 and 230 by the end of every session, but surprisingly this year it never shifted into overdrive, even though outside temps were also very hot. My supercharger also has a lot to do with all the extra heat they create, but I have never really had any problem with the engine overheating, just the trans. I also recommend you take axis101 advise above and call Kenny Brown and see if they can provide some more info on cooling the T56. Not the same situation but hope this helps a little.

I've now run almost 60,000 miles and 30 track days and my trans has not failed yet!!! Knock on wood.... ;)
Apples to oranges. Can't compare stick shift vs auto trans temps.
 

JJ427R

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Apples to oranges. Can't compare stick shift vs auto trans temps.
I realize that and also said above it's not the same situation, but it still involves trans coolers so giving a little info I have on those.
 

NitroTy19

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I currently do not have a trans temp gauge installed although one is to be installed in the future along with a rear axle fluid temp gauge as well. I’m currently running what TREMEC recommends, Dexron III atf, which makes me wonder being atf if it’ll generate the same kind of heat as an auto would. (I know apples to oranges) I’ve thought about the Boss 302 scoop, haven’t done too much research into wether it would actually fit but most places that sell it say it only fits 2011+ models. (Possible front subframe difference between Coyote cars & 3Vs?) I’ll have to look into the Shelby ones, I’m sure there’s some for the 3V ‘Stangs. Hard to say if it does get hotter than the TR3650 for I bought my 2010 used with the T56 already installed by the previous owner, shifter area does get warm but I figured that was more because of direct mount trans & header / X-pipe heat. (Had a stock clutch fluid supply line fail because of the header heat & upgraded to a stainless steel Ford Performance line) However I figured a cooler install wouldn’t be a bad idea especially since I tend to take it to local drift events, I know it’s nowhere near related but if my water temp gets as high as it does after a few rounds I’m sure the trans temp isn’t too far behind and I’d rather do a “better safe than sorry” upgrade than be out a transmission [emoji16]


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Midlife Crises

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Dexron III atf,
Along with Dexron III Tremec has their own branded HD MTF recommended for the T56 Magnum. It is a little bit thicker than ATF. Tremec has also approved the use of Mobil 1 synthetic ATF. I have run all three types and prefer Mobil 1.
 

NitroTy19

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Along with Dexron III Tremec has their own branded HD MTF recommended for the T56 Magnum. It is a little bit thicker than ATF. Tremec has also approved the use of Mobil 1 synthetic ATF. I have run all three types and prefer Mobil 1.

I’ll have to try Mobil 1, at the moment I’m running Valvoline’s synthetic atf, went to change the clutch and loss some fluid in the process & that was the only kind O’Reilly’s had at the time [emoji28]


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atv4fun

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Hello! I tried searching for this topic but couldn’t find it anywhere & apologize if I missed it. I have a T56 Magnum XL swapped 2010 GT that I’m starting to track more frequently, however I noticed the transmission tends to get hot pretty quick after a few runs of hard driving, has anyone installed a Trans cooler on their T56? I know it has plugs so a cooler can be fitted but I was looking to see if anyone else has installed one & how they went about routing lines & what parts they used? I was thinking somewhere along the lines of a Mishimoto auto trans cooler & some sort of external fluid pump would possibly work? Any help & guidance would be greatly appreciated! [emoji16]
-Tyler


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Did you every resolve your overheating issue, I'm asking because I have a similar issue. For now I keep a welding clove in the car for shifting.
 

Vorshlag-Fair

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So if you really do see trans fluid temps above ~275F on track, then sure, you might need a cooler, even on a T56 Magnum. Please take my earlier advice and measure the fluid temps before going down this path. We've done a trans cooler to a coupe of W2W race cars, but they all had reasons.

DSC_9212-L.jpg


Unlike the Getrag MT-82 nightmare, the fill and drain plugs on a T56 Magnum (above) can be plumbed for a cooler system, with the lower plug being the feed and the upper plug being the return. Note: the Getrag MT82 has these fill/drain holes essentially blocked inside, so no meaningful flow for a cooler can be done this way. Those would needs new feed/return holes drilled / welded into the cast aluminum case (not easy), and to do that then you are opening up an MT82, and that is a pointless exercise. The Getrag is a flaming bag of poo compared to the T56 Magnum XL... it should be tossed into the trash when it breaks, not "upgraded". The proper upgrade is a T56 Magnum XL for an S197 or S550 Mustang (rated at 700 ft-lbs of torque, not 400).

IMG_6725-L.jpg


But again, say you are doing endurance 8/12/24 hour racing with a T56 Magnum, then yea... a cooler is a good idea. EVERY fluid system gets a cooler on an endurance car.

IMG_9327-L.jpg


This 550 hp CTS-V WRL endurance race car has coolers for engine coolant (radiator), engine oil, power steering fluid, T56 trans fluid (trunk) and the rear diff fluid (trunk). Again, that is one of the rare cases where I'd see a T56 could get hot, other than a 1000 hp road course setup.

P8230349-S.jpg
DSC_9249-S.jpg


Things can get crowded at the front of the car if you already have an oil cooler and radiator ducted so we added the trans fluid cooler at the rear of the car. It doesn't have under-car aero or diffuser so there is plenty of turbulent airflow back there for a passive (no fan) heat exchanger. The pumps need to be rated for the right fluids, of course. Diff fluid is MUCH thicker than modern trans fluid, of course. Most manual transmissions use thin viscosity fluid like ATF... easy to pump.

DSC_9230-L.jpg


Hope this helps with some real tech. Again, for 99% of the people reading this YOU DON'T NEED A MANUAL TRANSMISSION FLUID COOLER, so don't sweat it. And for you "high post count" members that don't understand the massive differences between an AUTOMATIC transmission and the heat loads they make vs a manual transmission, well... you aren't ever going to "get it". Just keep spewing content to keep your post count up! :D

Cheers!
 

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