Cams and timing

[Samos3]

Doesn't look bad for 240k. But I figured ask I'd ask for opinions on the cam lobe. I do have a spare pair of cams that are reasonably low mileage....provided they are the correct oem cams.

I don't see anything tragic. Chains don't seem terribly loose, either.

Passenger side looks much cleaner than drivers side.

This might be all for today. Still trying to break the crank pulley bolt loose.

 

[Samos3]

Also, here are pics of the oil filter adapter flange on the block. Notice the corrosion pits:

 

[JC SSP]

Please post any tricks or difficulties that you encounter.

 

[Samos3]

Please post any tricks or difficulties that you encounter.

First trick: most definitely replace that oil filter adapter gasket. I could see the seal was in the process of failing. See pic. Drain coolant at radiator and remove upper radiator hose and coolant tank. So much more room than having to fight around it doing the rest of the timing stuff Just using the drain cock on the bottom of the radiator removed enough coolant that I could remove the hose from the oil filter adapter without much coming out at all. I do have the front of the car up on ramps.

Second trick: break loose the crank pulley bolt before doing anything else. I didn't so I am at a stopping point until I get...

The third trick!: stubby impact wrench from Harbor Freight. I figured I could do it with a long breaker bar, trans in gear and parking brake set. No such luck.
Luckily, my wife has to stop at Walgreens on her way home....exactly directly across the street from HF. You could throw a rock from one to the other.

Fourth....make sure you have the fuel disconnect tool for the fuel line to fuel rail connection.

 

[Samos3]

Pics of adapter gasket:

 

[Samos3]

Five: This tool! Hose clamps pliers. Long reach. Best thing ever for the oem clamps....especially on the lower hose to the oil filter adapter housing.
It has a little toothed locking pawl that locks the pliers once you've squeezed the clamp. That part doesn't work so great. But its still waaayyy better than channellocks.

 

[Samos3]

I've watched the Makuloco timing component videos. He does use the stubby impact, but he is working on a truck in the videos. On the Mustang, this is the reason for the stubby impact. There is an a/c line right smack in front of the crank pulley.
In the pic I have a short impact socket.

 

[Samos3]

6....Autozone does carry the right type damper pulley that has three hooks that go sideways to catch the flats on the pulley. It's like $65. I have a small three jaw that I'm going to try first.
They also have two different installer tools in the loan a tool program. One has a much stouter jack bolt, but it is longer, the other has a thinner jack bolt with changeable threaded tips. Look at both and decide for yourself.

 

[Samos3]

And examine your valve covers where the coil bolts are. Most of mine are cracked at the threaded holes. I changed out the coils awhile back and noticed it. Heat cycling and factory torque specs? Maybe. Or maybe somebody used a small impact driver to remove them at some point prior to my ownership.

 

[JC SSP]

First excellent break down. I and others appreciate that you are supplying such important information. This should be a sticky or pinned for future reference.

Did you remove the radiator? Autozone should rent you the puller. Hose clamp pliers are from HF?

On the valve covers, YES I had to epoxy and tap them several years ago. I plan on putting new ones on when I do the timing set.

 

[Samos3]

Radiator and fan still in place.

 

[Samos3]

New favorite tool! Crank bolt is now loose!

 

[MrBhp]

Cams look excellent! Metallurgy and lubrication have truly reset expectations for engine longevity.

 

[Samos3]

First excellent break down. I and others appreciate that you are supplying such important information. This should be a sticky or pinned for future reference.

Did you remove the radiator? Autozone should rent you the puller. Hose clamp pliers are from HF?

On the valve covers, YES I had to epoxy and tap them several years ago. I plan on putting new ones on when I do the timing set.

Happy to help someone down the road with the actual process. Not everyone has the same experience and capabilities, so seeing what someone else has done might make things easier for the person with less experience...or none.
One of the worst ways to start a 'How To" is 'All Ya Gotta Do Is...." Almost everytime I hear that its a very experienced person trying to describe how to do something while completely forgetting how much they do without even thinking about it. It's all that stuff the other person will not be thinking about because they don't know.
The other is "Your Model/Version/Etc Will Be Similar"....yeah. Except for this and except for that.

Having said all that, this is not really a comprehensive "How To". But it is an actual effort on an actual 3v S197.

I have a digital copy of the FSM. Even it will gloss over things by saying "Remove (this or that)". I did motor mounts on my Safari van awhile back. There are three bolts holding them on to the top side of the subframe. The manual says to remove them. Okay, fine. It even shows you the holes on the bottom of the subframe to access two of them. What it doesn't tell you is that while you can see them, the top side of the subframe is at a different angle than the bottom and, even if it was, its still not a straight shot to them. So that's two different angles you're dealing with. The third bolt?....a long extension with a swivel socket. The long extension is because the access requires you to run the extension thru the front coil spring. Even then you can't turn it. That you do with a rachet on top.
Best part of that is my motor mounts were shot. So they sagged and blocked getting the wrench on the bolt!
"Remove..."
(Diatribe over...)

 

[Samos3]

Harmonic balancer pulling....

Standard small three jaw puller is a no go. Maybe if the engine is out of the car where you see everything.

This one worked fairly well. It better for $95. Packaging says its for Ford 5.0 Coyote amongst GM/Chrysler stuff. And 'Misc other three spoke pulleys'.
Anyway, it does work on the 4.6 3v in the Mustang. I have a feeling it may get returned, though....

 

[Samos3]

Cams look excellent! Metallurgy and lubrication have truly reset expectations for engine longevity.

Good to hear! I have only used the Motorcraft 5w-20 Blend and the 820S filter with changes at about 3k. Pretty sure that's what the previous said he did, too.

After this I may change to a full synthetic. And maybe go to 5w-30.

I agree with your other comment. With one big caveat....carbs. I think the switch to fuel injection was the first major leap in longevity. That change alone has extended the life of motors tremendously. No longer are people driving around on worn out, out of sdjustment, leaky carbs dumping fuel into the motor. First it washes the oil off the rings and pistons. Then it begins to dilute the oil causing further wear everywhere else. But, hey, if you drive an Olds 98 with a 4v 455, you'd never notice the loss of power, so you think everything is fine...until its done at 100k and smoking like a steam engine (over-exaggerated, but some of us are old enough to remember when a light turning green looked like a rolling coal drag race....and if you're behind them, you and your progeny get the benefit of breathing it all in).

I have been genuinely surprised with how well this car has been for me for its second 120k. So far, I have not replaced anything on the motor due to a failure. Everything has been preventative and/or low mileage oem replacements. And that stuff started just a couple years ago around 200k with the cooling sytem.

But I don't beat on it, either.

 

[Kev555]

Yes I cant get over how clean the inside of your engine is Samos, mine was similar at 105K. Its a sign its been regularly serviced throughout its life.

 

[Samos3]

Yes I cant get over how clean the inside of your engine is Samos, mine was similar at 105K. Its a sign its been regularly serviced throughout its life.

The vast majority of the miles, even with the previous owner, are highway miles. Very little stop and go.

 

[Samos3]

Timing cover off. Pretty clean, no signs of chain wear.



Chain guides not broken as far as I can tell. Passenger side chain is tight, drivers has some slack. Drivers side tensioner is compressed/retracted, failed internally? Passengers is not and doesn't want to compress easily, I guess it hasn't bled down? They do have an internal spring, right? Maybe the drivers side has failed.

 

[JC SSP]

You replacing the dampener seal on that front cover and oil pan too?