Alignment Help

[RollingThunder]

I just got new tires and need to get an alignment asap before I ruin this set like I did the last ones. I need help on what alignment specs to give the guys at the alignment shop. I'm lowered on Steeda sport springs and would like to run something that will improve handling but won't destroy my tires since the car is my DD.

What camber/toe should I run? And will I need camber bolts?

 

[white05gt]

If the shop doesn't know the factory specs then you better go somewhere else because they have no idea what they are doing.

 

[RollingThunder]

I don't want to run factory specs. I meant that I wanted to run an alignment that's a bit more aggressive than factory specs.

 

[white05gt]

Personally, if it's a daily driver I would look into a few more suspension components to make it handle better before getting into different alignment specs. One you start messin' with the camber and the toe because that's going to cause your tires to wear faster on the insides.

 

[xtweakerx]

just go in and ask for an alignment no reason to get fancy :/

 

[TexasBlownV8]

If you're using Steeda Sports, you're probably at around -1.5* of camber now. That's a little more aggressive than the stock setting (typically around -0.75*). Specs are like -0.5 to -1.25, or maybe -1.5, I dont recall exactly.

Camber bolts will bring the camber in, but also have the toe checked.
Running more camber (higher negative offsets) will be harder on your tires.

 

[JeremyH]

Your average alignment shop is not going to do custom specs for an alignment they will use factory specs. And if u use anything other than that you will experience premature tire wear.

 

[RRRoamer]

Factory camber is 0 to -1.5 with a target of -0.75. When I put new tires on my car this Fall, I had the guys set it up to -1.0. That was not as aggressive as it had been (-2.5 with a lot more tire wear!), but it still gave it better turn in performance that I had stock.

 

[one.wicked.stang]

Ive got the same question, Im on the Eibach Pro kit, D-Specs, camber bolts, Adj LCA, Adj PHB, what specs should I run for the street? Factory??? I see alot of reference to -1.0 camber instead of -.75 factory specs. Also, I see alot of talk about flipping the strut mounts 180*, should I mention this to the techs if they need more movement? And lastly, since my LCAs are adjustable should I have them make sure those measurements are correct, Im assuming front to rear??? I did the PHB and got the rear dead perfect in spacing. Thanks!

 

[Department Of Boost]

I ran:

1.4deg of negative camber

Zero toe

As much caster as the stock stuff would do (not much) for my first 10K miles. Worked great, turned in real well and was still very stable at 175mph. I was running a lot of corners with the car though so the front tires took a little beating on the insides of the tread. I'm going to re-set at -1deg of camber but still leave zero toe.

I just put CC plates on and am now running MAX caster (can't remember what it is though). I like it a lot. I can take my hands off the wheel at 140+mph but it's still not heavy to steer.

 

[saleen07gt]

Factory camber is 0 to -1.5 with a target of -0.75. When I put new tires on my car this Fall, I had the guys set it up to -1.0. That was not as aggressive as it had been (-2.5 with a lot more tire wear!), but it still gave it better turn in performance that I had stock.