Short Blockectomy has started
- Thread starter 94tbird
- Start date
Vapour Trails
The Renaissance Man
From the shop manual rod side clearance is 0.006 - 0.020 (my engine is 0.020)
Crank end play spec is 0.003 - 0.0148 (my engine is also 0.005)
So technically, your engine is 0.002 out of spec on the rod side clearance and within spec for the crank.
Crank end play spec is 0.003 - 0.0148 (my engine is also 0.005)
So technically, your engine is 0.002 out of spec on the rod side clearance and within spec for the crank.
dv8uagain
Worthless
Good stuff! I'm happy you didn't part it out and are moving on with it.
Thanks for the info!!!
As long as this goes ok ill remain happy lol
Natural1
all around duguder
What shop manual do you have? Mine is the Ford (Helm Inc.) Shop Manual and it states everything in metric measurements. Also, what I stated prior, somewhat conflicts with what my manual states but I still stand behind the belief that just because something is "within spec" does not mean that it should not be in a different area of the allowable tolerance. That being said, here's what I got:
1mm = .03937"
Thrust Clearance: .130mm-.301mm = .005" - .011"
Con-Rod End Clearance: .150mm-.450mm = .006"-.018"
Ron, If this offers any reassurance, then my objective has been met.
Vapour Trails
The Renaissance Man
http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=158&viewfile=SPECIFICATIONS.pdf
Crankshaft maximum end play
0.075-0.377 mm
0.075-0.377 mm
(0.0030-0.0148 in)
Connecting rod side clearance
0.5-0.15 mm
0.5-0.15 mm
(0.02-0.006 in)
I'm pretty sure I'm looking at the right specs
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Natural1
all around duguder
Yep, you are and I see. My figures come from a 96/98 Cobra with an aluminum Teksid and a forged steel crank. On iron blocks, I follow Ford's specs for 03/04 Cobras. I will cross compare numbers between these two. I don't follow numbers from the S197 GTs because they never had forged cranks, aftermarket rods, forged pistons (piston to bore), or power adders. With aluminum blocks, I follow the Teksid numbers and make my own determination. When it comes to things like ring end gap, I don't follow OEM recommendations. I will use their basic ratio for top and 2nd ring sizing but that is about it. I rollow the ring manufacturer's specs more than Ford's and even then, I make my own determination.
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redstangs9308gt
Senior Member
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I don't have a dog in this but, Ron@foxlake was rambling numbers off to me when I droped my motor off to him, and IF I am not mistakin I believe he said almost the same thing SD said. What brought the subject up was I asked him what weight oil should I run and he was like well 20w50. I was like WTF, then he started talking numbers with clearences and how oil was etc etc etc. WAY OVER MY HEAD but thats what he said.. soo flame me if you must but I sware thats what my engine builder said....not saying yours doesn't know what he is doing.
Well for those that care, here is an update.
We got a lot done in the past 2 days but we did hit a few snags along the road that slowed us down tremendously.
The old motor is out and stripped down. Headers removed, motor mounts and plates out, oil pan and windage tray out, heads off, ect ect ect.
new motor is on the engine stand, heads are bolted, oil pump with TSS billet Gears is in, and engine is timed(I hope. I always get nervous about timing the engine.)
first snag we hit was pulling the crank pulley off. With the manual all I had to do was pop the trans into 4th gear and that would hold the motor still while i unbolted and pulled the pulley. With the auto that trick doesnt work. It took some finese but we eventually got it off. Second Snag wasthe POS crane I got did not reach far enough into the engine bay. I borrowed a crane and solved that but it cost us a good chunk of time. Third problem was since I had a Teksid motor, I had the motor mount adapter plates sandwiched between the block and mount supports. This would normally be fine but it does leave me 3 bolts short to mount the new motor mount support plates to the new engine. We did find some bolts locally but are just a hair shorter than the ford ones so now the ford ones are on order. The last snag we hit late last night was the motor would not turn at all. We ended up removing the cams and it didn't solve the problem. Had we not been completely exhausted we might have figured out before removing the cams that the motor's stroker crank and bolts on the caps were striking the stock windage tray. I didn't even know there was a windage tray down there. Brian said he told me he was putting it thre but i didnt remember so that caused some grief but luckily easily remedied.
As i want for some random bolts and crap the engine awaits and I wonder how Im going to get this damned thing into the car lol. It might not be for a looooooong time until I can find someone to help me heh
We got a lot done in the past 2 days but we did hit a few snags along the road that slowed us down tremendously.
The old motor is out and stripped down. Headers removed, motor mounts and plates out, oil pan and windage tray out, heads off, ect ect ect.
new motor is on the engine stand, heads are bolted, oil pump with TSS billet Gears is in, and engine is timed(I hope. I always get nervous about timing the engine.)
first snag we hit was pulling the crank pulley off. With the manual all I had to do was pop the trans into 4th gear and that would hold the motor still while i unbolted and pulled the pulley. With the auto that trick doesnt work. It took some finese but we eventually got it off. Second Snag wasthe POS crane I got did not reach far enough into the engine bay. I borrowed a crane and solved that but it cost us a good chunk of time. Third problem was since I had a Teksid motor, I had the motor mount adapter plates sandwiched between the block and mount supports. This would normally be fine but it does leave me 3 bolts short to mount the new motor mount support plates to the new engine. We did find some bolts locally but are just a hair shorter than the ford ones so now the ford ones are on order. The last snag we hit late last night was the motor would not turn at all. We ended up removing the cams and it didn't solve the problem. Had we not been completely exhausted we might have figured out before removing the cams that the motor's stroker crank and bolts on the caps were striking the stock windage tray. I didn't even know there was a windage tray down there. Brian said he told me he was putting it thre but i didnt remember so that caused some grief but luckily easily remedied.
As i want for some random bolts and crap the engine awaits and I wonder how Im going to get this damned thing into the car lol. It might not be for a looooooong time until I can find someone to help me heh
damn.... glad you made a lot of progress, but that sucks that it's still apart
I figured you were hard at work on it as you've not been around much the last 48hrs
I figured you were hard at work on it as you've not been around much the last 48hrs
explict
Heavy Metal
Sounds like fun. Always the little things you wouldn't think would hold you up!!
And I swear it's the smallest of things that hold you up the longest...Good luck man!
And I swear it's the smallest of things that hold you up the longest...Good luck man!
ZmanM3
The Evil One
Its not done yet? I can't wait to see what you find when you take the Larry H block apart.
05mustang_TT_charged
Because Race Car!!
I can as I am still running mine....I really do not want to know anything till it lets go and I build another one....I'm still skeptical on the whole deal with Larry_H but (knock on wood) it is still holding up fine even with 21 psi street tune....
dysan
Dis-Member
If you were closer I'd happily lend a hand, but N.Y. is just too far from South Jersey.
ZmanM3
The Evil One
I'm still running mine and he built Ron's and mine at the same time and our short blocks were identical, in fact the only difference in the long block was the cams we used.
08StangGT_CS
Senior Member
Great progress. Hope you get it done soon. Maybe one day I too will go with a built bottom end and hopefully not because of necessity (i.e. rod visible as soon as I open my hood).
US-1
Banned
That's odd. The 302 stroker I just did (3.800 stroke) for Mike, TexasBlownV6, has a stock windage tray and is running just fine. No interference problems with the tray.
US-1
Banned
Strange. Is it a 3.75 stroke? What connecting rods?
maybe its not a stock one then? idk but whatever tray was bolted to the bottom it didnt work, once removed all is well again. they are the rods JDM uses in their 298 stroker. Thos motor was originally a jdm 298 stroker
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