Towelly
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Gotcha. I have not heard of a failure. That is correct. Understood on the latter.
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Long Awaited Turbo build...
- Thread starter JeremyH
- Start date
Gotcha. I have not heard of a failure. That is correct. Understood on the latter.
US-1
Banned
Me personally....three cast cranks.
1. Too much rpm too many times. Stress fractures led to larger fractures. Didn't actually break in two pieces but it was about to do so.
2. Snapped the snout off due to excessive rpm and a bad balancer.
3. I broke one due to having it destroked and excessive rpm. An experiment that answered several questions I had.
More than you can imagine. I know I built over 20 different two valve engines with cast cranks. Highest horsepower unit was 775 to the tire with twin turbos. N/A, blower, and turbo combinations.
Cast crank is stronger than you can imagine.
rford426
Resident 5.0 H8R
Good info^ Thanks SD!!
antonio1988
Redline: 8600rpm
+1 Thanks for the info SD, I'll save that money for other things
JeremyH
3V Fuel Guru
All kinds of good info on the thread lol, use the money you save on the crank for some tss oil pump gears and arp mains and head studs like i did! 
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Bobby
turbo gt about to go fast
sd does know his stuff on the mod motors.
rford426
Resident 5.0 H8R
No doubt about it^
JeremyH
3V Fuel Guru
Thought I would share what I have learned from researching how the the eboost2 settings work for best results.
Ok so you have 3 settings you can adjust for desired boost/performance.
Set point, Gate pressure, and sensitivity.
Set point ranges from 0-99 and the the value represents wastegate duty cycle and should be adjusted till desired boost level is achieved It is going to be different for every vehicle and it also changes depending on the wastgate connection method you use. In my case it is set at 35 and makes 12.3 lbs of boost.
Next adjust gate pressure. Gate pressue is the psi at which the boost controller solenoid will start sending air to the wastgate to regulate boost level. Turbosmart reccomends 5psi under desired boost level. So in my case I have the gate pressure set at 7.0 psi. The closer the gate pressure is to max boost level the faster the turbo will spool and it will make more torque, the catch is when its too close to desired boost you will get a boost spike from the wastgate opening late and trying to adjust to the set level. For example desired boost level is 12lbs, and you have the gate pressure set at 11lbs. By the time the solenoid redirects air to control the wastgate it will spike and reach say 13-14lbs before steadying out at 12.
Here is where sensitivty comes in and again will be different on every setup. Stock value is 20 and the instructions warn not to go past 30 or the boost curve will become too wavy from a too responsive wastgate (opens and closes too fast) causing the boost level to be unstable and fluctuate higher and lower than desired boost level as the wastgate cycles.
The trick for fastest spool and hp/tq production is to increase gate pressure closer to desired boost ie within 2-3 psi, then adjust sensitivity slightly higher so theres is no boost spike when the wastgate opens later, but dont make it too sensitive so the boost curve remains steady.
This of course is going to take some trial and error to get prefect for each setup. And i will be playing with this to see what works best for me. Right now boost level is 12 psi with a gate pressure of 9 psi and sensitivity of 24, which has already improved spool noticebaly! and im sure would show on the dyno as well. I have been using the peak hold boost and peak hold rpm function to monitor how fast its spooling and to tweak in the sensitivty and gate pressure. next i am going to try 10lb gate pressure and maybe 25 sensitivity to see how that works.
Def loving this eboost2 controller!!!!
Ok so you have 3 settings you can adjust for desired boost/performance.
Set point, Gate pressure, and sensitivity.
Set point ranges from 0-99 and the the value represents wastegate duty cycle and should be adjusted till desired boost level is achieved It is going to be different for every vehicle and it also changes depending on the wastgate connection method you use. In my case it is set at 35 and makes 12.3 lbs of boost.
Next adjust gate pressure. Gate pressue is the psi at which the boost controller solenoid will start sending air to the wastgate to regulate boost level. Turbosmart reccomends 5psi under desired boost level. So in my case I have the gate pressure set at 7.0 psi. The closer the gate pressure is to max boost level the faster the turbo will spool and it will make more torque, the catch is when its too close to desired boost you will get a boost spike from the wastgate opening late and trying to adjust to the set level. For example desired boost level is 12lbs, and you have the gate pressure set at 11lbs. By the time the solenoid redirects air to control the wastgate it will spike and reach say 13-14lbs before steadying out at 12.
Here is where sensitivty comes in and again will be different on every setup. Stock value is 20 and the instructions warn not to go past 30 or the boost curve will become too wavy from a too responsive wastgate (opens and closes too fast) causing the boost level to be unstable and fluctuate higher and lower than desired boost level as the wastgate cycles.
The trick for fastest spool and hp/tq production is to increase gate pressure closer to desired boost ie within 2-3 psi, then adjust sensitivity slightly higher so theres is no boost spike when the wastgate opens later, but dont make it too sensitive so the boost curve remains steady.
This of course is going to take some trial and error to get prefect for each setup. And i will be playing with this to see what works best for me. Right now boost level is 12 psi with a gate pressure of 9 psi and sensitivity of 24, which has already improved spool noticebaly! and im sure would show on the dyno as well. I have been using the peak hold boost and peak hold rpm function to monitor how fast its spooling and to tweak in the sensitivty and gate pressure. next i am going to try 10lb gate pressure and maybe 25 sensitivity to see how that works.
Def loving this eboost2 controller!!!!
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rford426
Resident 5.0 H8R
Sweet glad your liking it im deff. gonna try and fork up the extra cash for the eboost2! Glad to hear you are liking it!
JeremyH
3V Fuel Guru
It was a no brainer for me since i saved so much $ on the hotside piping and deleted all the major components from the on3 Kit. I was able to get top of line wastegate/bov, alot better turbo and a very nice electonic boost controller while staying on my $4k budget which is still $2k less than most kits. Also buying from members here helped make it possible as well!
rford426
Resident 5.0 H8R
Ill be doing the same thing!!
The E-Boost 2 works great . I have that on my car . I agree also with the a/r housing set up . If your using a 70 or 67mm Turbo go ahead and put a .96 housing it wwill still spool up quickly and you can take advantage of the bigger housing to make bigger power up top.
The bigger the Frt side of the turbo the more lag , I was running a 78mm with a .96 a/r , but now I went to a 74bb with a .81 and man it feels like Im spraying the car . My powerband has jumped up about 400 rpms and thats with me having issues on the dyno b/c of my alternator. Im guessing with it all working out correctly the power will come in 500 to 600 rpms sooner which gives me a wider powerband on stock heads .
Pete
The bigger the Frt side of the turbo the more lag , I was running a 78mm with a .96 a/r , but now I went to a 74bb with a .81 and man it feels like Im spraying the car . My powerband has jumped up about 400 rpms and thats with me having issues on the dyno b/c of my alternator. Im guessing with it all working out correctly the power will come in 500 to 600 rpms sooner which gives me a wider powerband on stock heads .
Pete
JeremyH
3V Fuel Guru
Im runing a 67mm with 76mm p trim t4 .96 ar housing. Will i still be able to hit 600rwhp on the big end and spool better with a .81.
If you have stock heads take a look at your power curve , its dropping power around 5400 so doesn't make alot of sense to spin the motor past 6000 b/c your power is dropping off . A 67mm spools up pretty quick on your set up so you should be making 600 easily .
I think your set up will work fine as is , the .81 will spool even sooner and still be able to make 600 rwhp , at 12 psi's that turbo isn't doing anything yet .
Wait till you turn it up to 18 its going to wake up.
Give yourself more room with the fuel system and MAF and turn the boost up .
Pete
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JeremyH
3V Fuel Guru
Thanks for info man. The power was steady to 6500 with the cams/springs. I think i will stick with the .96 for now get it to the power i want with the maf and fuel like you said, see how she does and go from there def happy with this 67mm and eboost2 so far, cant wait till i can turn it up again lol
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SilentScope
Chemist by profession
this thread is full of technical win. been a great read. thanks to all the contributors.
JeremyH
3V Fuel Guru
JeremyH
3V Fuel Guru
Little update. After a good amount of driving in this 90 degree weather everything on the other side of the modded heattape shield is a lot cooler!! Very noticeable temp differencxe so it looks like it is doing its job quite well. I will be logging some temps soon to see the difference it is making. There is still a little bit of room for heat to rise up into the that area directly below the filter, so i have plans to add a small bottom sheild with heat tape as well to completely isolate the intake filter from the heat of the turbo and up pipe.
More to come on that...
More to come on that...
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Ok didn't realize you had cams and springs , that will help carry the power curve ouut further .
Im still not a fan of turning the motor that high with stock oil pump .
Harmonics kill the pump . Im a big fan of just more boost less rpm .
Keep us posted .
Pete
ChevyKiller
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You guys need to be warned to be VERY CAREFUL when playing around with changing the exhaust housings on the turbos - especially the bigger singles.
True, by adjusting the housing size, you can get the turbo(s) to spool faster, but it is a tricky endeavor as it also cause more heat to be generated.
As soon you start changing the exhaust housing, your chances to lift a head increase ten fold for every millimeter you change it.
Do you honestly think the kit manufacturers use an exhaust housing to lag the spool on purpose? You can't honestly think that when the design kit - they don't want as low a spool time as possible - they use what they use because it RIGHT and the pros do not outweigh the cons on a mass production type of thing.
Do some research and be sure of what you are doing when you start playing around with exhaust housings...
True, by adjusting the housing size, you can get the turbo(s) to spool faster, but it is a tricky endeavor as it also cause more heat to be generated.
As soon you start changing the exhaust housing, your chances to lift a head increase ten fold for every millimeter you change it.
Do you honestly think the kit manufacturers use an exhaust housing to lag the spool on purpose? You can't honestly think that when the design kit - they don't want as low a spool time as possible - they use what they use because it RIGHT and the pros do not outweigh the cons on a mass production type of thing.
Do some research and be sure of what you are doing when you start playing around with exhaust housings...
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