Front Sway bar removed test.

[1fastpony]

This was just an experiment last Saturday at the track. It was HOT AS HELL.
How many folks run without the front sway bar and no anti squat brackets? Are anti squat brackets needed with front sway bar removed? The car doesn’t 60’ well, lot of squatting when removed. 1-3 shift the car bucks like an old horse buggy…this aint good. Couple of times it seemed the rear axle hit. Once during launch and the other 1-2 shift.

Have D-specs set at ~ -3-4 turns.

 

[dysan]

I'm currently set-up that way but I do think I need the relo/anti squat brackets. My car squats real hard and I know it's hitting the bump stops. The best 60' I've been able to muster is a 1.77 and I'm still on stock springs and shocks that have 117k miles on them.

I don't get the "bucking" your talking about though.

 

[1fastpony]

The “Bucking” is from the initial launch and each gear shift. I figured the aftermarket springs and shocks would prevent some of this issue. Had this problem with the stock suspension until installing anti squats which helped change the instant center. The street never have this problem due to no traction. Maybe this Wednesday night at KOH I will try it again with the LCA’s in the lower position. I’m not one to set up the suspension real soft. Too much car movement waste energy in the car going forward. I did confirm that the steel braided hydraulic line for the clutch help with shifting with the new clutch. Tranny never binded up like it use to when the car suspension was too lose.

I’m thinking if I can get the front of the car up from launch 6-8 inches and carry that momentum forward through second and into third with the front end up will not just help my 60’ but also 1/8. With the sway bar on and d-specs set accordingly, the car would raise up 4-6 inches out of the hole and then dropped down after 2nd gear and would spin some through second gear, just enuff to give up some time.

 

[19COBRA93]

You need to stiffen up those D-specs if you're getting bucking. And if you're getting a lot of weight transfer which it sounds like you are, then unhooking the sway bar isn't going to help. These cars dead stock weight transfer really well, so unless you're ditching the sway bar for the weight savings alone, then there's really no point.

Tighten up those D-specs and the "bucking" will mellow out.

 

[1fastpony]

You need to stiffen up those D-specs if you're getting bucking. And if you're getting a lot of weight transfer which it sounds like you are, then unhooking the sway bar isn't going to help. These cars dead stock weight transfer really well, so unless you're ditching the sway bar for the weight savings alone, then there's really no point.

Tighten up those D-specs and the "bucking" will mellow out.

you are confirming my thinking, thanks. Lower the anti squats, tighten up the front d-specs to to 2-3 turns. I think when I spray it I'll need the front even more stiff.

 

[Simon]

you are confirming my thinking, thanks. Lower the anti squats, tighten up the front d-specs to to 2-3 turns. I think when I spray it I'll need the front even more stiff.

Tighten the rear to full hard or one turn out

Front full loose or 7 out.

Sway bar unhooked.

1.70 60'

Ride the clutch just slightly out of the hole and then side step it.

 

[1fastpony]

Tighten the rear to full hard or one turn out

Front full loose or 7 out.

Sway bar unhooked.

1.70 60'

Ride the clutch just slightly out of the hole and then side step it.

with or without AS brackets or, does'nt matter?

 

[Simon]

I'm not sure what AS brackets are.

At the track, my rear suspension is:

D-Specs (full hard or one turn out)
Eibach pros
BMR LCA relocate brackets (lowest hole)
Steeda LCAs
OEM UCA
MT ET street 26x11.5x17 bias ply tires.

Front

D-Specs (7 turns out)
Front sway bar unhooked
Eibach pro


I would like to get 15x10 in the back with skinnies just to see what would change.

 

[rojizostang]

MattD started a good thread about sixty foot times, you should be able to find it with a search

here it is
http://s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=32593

on mine:
pro kit
d specs all the way loose in the front
5 turns out in the back
17" skinnies
17x11x26.5 et streets bias ply
no front sway bar
4.56 gear
relocation brackets bottom hole
no passenger seat
1/4 tank of gas
4.5k clutch dump
steeda adj lca's
j&m uca
j&m adj panhard
msd 2 step
consistent 1.67-1.69 60' times (with a good burn out, pulling right up to the line with no dry hop)

 

[1fastpony]

I'm not sure what AS brackets are.

AS = Anti Squat Brackets

 

[qwikhuh]

MattD started a good thread about sixty foot times, you should be able to find it with a search

here it is
http://s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=32593

on mine:
pro kit
d specs all the way loose in the front
5 turns out in the back
17" skinnies
17x11x26.5 et streets bias ply
no front sway bar
4.56 gear
relocation brackets bottom hole
no passenger seat
1/4 tank of gas
4.5k clutch dump
steeda adj lca's
j&m uca
j&m adj panhard
msd 2 step
consistent 1.67-1.69 60' times (with a good burn out, pulling right up to the line with no dry hop)

4:56s with a 26.5 in tire? What rpm are you going through the traps at?

 

[rojizostang]

4:56s with a 26.5 in tire? What rpm are you going through the traps at?

around 6200 or 6300. i've got the shift light set at 6400 and it comes on if i stay in the gas just a couple feet after the finish line

 

[1fastpony]

MattD started a good thread about sixty foot times, you should be able to find it with a search

here it is
http://s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=32593

on mine:
pro kit
d specs all the way loose in the front
5 turns out in the back
17" skinnies
17x11x26.5 et streets bias ply
no front sway bar
4.56 gear
relocation brackets bottom hole
no passenger seat
1/4 tank of gas
4.5k clutch dump
steeda adj lca's
j&m uca
j&m adj panhard
msd 2 step
consistent 1.67-1.69 60' times (with a good burn out, pulling right up to the line with no dry hop)

Oh yeah. Hows San Anton doing? I need to get the family back over there. Got some relatives there and in the hil country. Love those roads for the stang.

 

[jroc07gt]

The “Bucking” is from the initial launch and each gear shift. I figured the aftermarket springs and shocks would prevent some of this issue. Had this problem with the stock suspension until installing anti squats which helped change the instant center. The street never have this problem due to no traction. Maybe this Wednesday night at KOH I will try it again with the LCA’s in the lower position. I’m not one to set up the suspension real soft. Too much car movement waste energy in the car going forward. I did confirm that the steel braided hydraulic line for the clutch help with shifting with the new clutch. Tranny never binded up like it use to when the car suspension was too lose.

I’m thinking if I can get the front of the car up from launch 6-8 inches and carry that momentum forward through second and into third with the front end up will not just help my 60’ but also 1/8. With the sway bar on and d-specs set accordingly, the car would raise up 4-6 inches out of the hole and then dropped down after 2nd gear and would spin some through second gear, just enuff to give up some time.

dont you remember watching my car was do this at the track? then next time when i had full suspension it was all gone and i dropped 3 tenths of my time. dont forget that when you move your lca's you have to recheck your pinion angle.

 

[1fastpony]

dont you remember watching my car was do this at the track? then next time when i had full suspension it was all gone and i dropped 3 tenths of my time. dont forget that when you move your lca's you have to recheck your pinion angle.

Yep I remember. Trying to get the car to hook better if can. Running some where between 1.5 to 2 degrees negative normal settings so lowering them gets me into the -4 range. Going back tonight with my settings with the sway bar removed and see. It seems to work on the street with the lca's lowered. the car just wants to dig in from a dig.

There is a TnT at Gulfport with that scrappin the coast event.