New turbo on the way!

[JeremyH]

Yes it is! I think 600-650rwhp will be my limit for now. 550rwhp on the street tune and then 600-650rwhp on the track tune. I am not in least bit concerend about the stock crank. These cast cranks have seen 800+ rwhp. They are plenty strong, they just lack counter balances like a forged crank has, so its high rpm that is the problem ie 7,000+ rpms.
My rev limiter is set at 7,000 rpms and i shift at or before 6800rpms.

Yeap should be a decent torque increase i imagine, but it has minimal timing which is lowering the torque numbers as well.

Just notice you have a S366. Great turbo as well, there has been alot of debate comparing it to this turbo.

How you like the meth injection? I have considered it many times.

 

[GB10]

I hear ya about the crank. Since I have stock cams my limiter is set to 6200 since peak power is at 6000 and I shift by 6100. My tuner was just worried, because with my setup the torque just keeps going up with the horsepower instead of dropping off where hp surpasses the torque. I'm mainly worried that if I get maybe 700rwhp that the torque would cause the crank to break since it would be over 700rwtq, but idk.

What is the timing in your tune set to? Mine is 16*, because the tuner doesn't like to use meth as an octane booster; he just uses it for the cooling properties.

I'm really liking the turbo I run, especially since it was only $550 brand new.

The meth injection I got works really well. The controller is progressive based on boost, but it can be setup based on injector pw as well. I have the 1.5 gal trunk-mounted tank and I have gone through a tank of gas and only about 1/5 of the water/meth tank. I got 5 gallons of VP M1 meth anf that should last for about a year with the amount I drive, lol.

 

[JeremyH]

Even at that level something else will go before the crank. 6200rpms is plenty safe.
Mine is low 12-14midrange and max of 16* from 5000rpms up.

When i get it fixed up and retuned (current turbo is leaking oil in the coldside into the intercooler and on to the maf) im actually going to have him add some midrange and raise the iat temp at which timing starts being pulled as it it really is conservative right now.

I also have 1.5" hole in my downpipe i still need to get welded shut. Its where the wastegate is supposed to dump back in but I have it dumped to atmosphere. That lack of back pressure downlow hurts torque and is the reason i only see a max of 8 lbs boost in 1st gear even taking it to 6800 rpms. And im running 9:1 compression, all factors effecting the torque numbers. Not having the higher torque actually helps with traction quite a bit i must say though lol.

Im with you there i would only use it for cooling as well, but my iats are already pretty good with the larger intercooler i have. So i feel i dont really need it right now.
Its still a street car dd for work.

 

[jodadejss06gt]

Jeremy, when do you think you will put the new turbo in?

So let me get this straight, you basically turned your wastegate 180* and didn't cover up the hole in the DP for its return, so basically you have the exhaust coming out of your downpipe before it gets to your mufflers? If that is so, how loud is it? I thought about doing that just to see what the wastegate dump would sound like, but covering up the dp.

I tried to put the double pass welded exhaust housing on my car last night and the freekin housing won't clear the insides. I'm guessing it went out of round with the heat from the weld. I'm starting to get ticked off with this whole thing. So basically I had to put the leaky one back in so I can atleast drive my car.

 

[JeremyH]

Jeremy, when do you think you will put the new turbo in?

So let me get this straight, you basically turned your wastegate 180* and didn't cover up the hole in the DP for its return, so basically you have the exhaust coming out of your downpipe before it gets to your mufflers? If that is so, how loud is it? I thought about doing that just to see what the wastegate dump would sound like, but covering up the dp.

I tried to put the double pass welded exhaust housing on my car last night and the freekin housing won't clear the insides. I'm guessing it went out of round with the heat from the weld. I'm starting to get ticked off with this whole thing. So basically I had to put the leaky one back in so I can atleast drive my car.

Yeah the wastgate just dumps to atmosphere and there is a small hole still in the downpipe where the wastegate is supposed to go back to. Its not real loud at idle/driving im used to kooks headrers and o/r x lol. BUt when im full spooled and wastgate is dumping its loud as shit, like air comressor discharging really fast.

So your turbo exhuast housing still has issues? I have a spare .96 ar housing if you need it.

 

[s8v4o]

why didnt get the vented case?

It's actually called a ported shroud. It's for anti-surge as lighblade noted. Surge usually occurs when a turbo is improperly sized for a particular application. It will make more sense if you look at some compressor maps.

Those are the anti-surge vents made for the larger s and h compressor covers, they are an option, not standard. I decided against them due to research, there were complaints about driveability issues at highway cruise speeds. Besides with a bov there is really no need for them unless your running lots of boost 30+ psi, then they help along with the bov.

Thats an important part, the lighter wheel/shaft allowed them to redesign the compressor wheel for better spool and higher flow.

That really surprises me as that is almost the opposite of what they are there to help prevent. Look at the compressor map and the surge line. The premise is the ported shroud should help shift the surge line so to speak to the left. I'm curious how a ported shroud would cause ill affects though.

I'm sure you'll enjoy the turbo. I just bought a turbo kit from someone on here. The exhaust wheel has an oily residue and I see oil seeping through the exhaust housing. I was told "it was fine, I just needed to install a catch can because it was smoking". Sounds suspect to me but if the turbo is bad I'm going to go with a borg warner unit. Are you able to datalog boost? If so I would like to see some comparisons between the two units. Keep us posted.

 

[JeremyH]

It's actually called a ported shroud. It's for anti-surge as lighblade noted. Surge usually occurs when a turbo is improperly sized for a particular application. It will make more sense if you look at some compressor maps.



That really surprises me as that is almost the opposite of what they are there to help prevent. Look at the compressor map and the surge line. The premise is the ported shroud should help shift the surge line so to speak to the left. I'm curious how a ported shroud would cause ill affects though.

I'm sure you'll enjoy the turbo. I just bought a turbo kit from someone on here. The exhaust wheel has an oily residue and I see oil seeping through the exhaust housing. I was told "it was fine, I just needed to install a catch can because it was smoking". Sounds suspect to me but if the turbo is bad I'm going to go with a borg warner unit. Are you able to datalog boost? If so I would like to see some comparisons between the two units. Keep us posted.

Two diffrent things, ported shroud and anti-surge. A ported shroud is just how it sounds a compressor cover thats been ported on the inside to flow more than a same size shroud thats not ported. And the anit-surge ports are an option on the s and h shrouds.

What kit? What kind of turbo? If its just oil blowby and the seal hasnt failed then you just nned to make sure you install an oil restrictor, denfinetly keep an eye on it. Those are the two brands i like the bw and precision.

I have boost graphs from the previous dyno pulls on my runs on the current turbo. I would see peak and then boost would drop off a 1-2 lbs and hold thorugh out the pull as would power.

So on my 12 psi tune i would see a peak of 12.1-12.8 psi then see 10.5 lbs for the rest of the run to redline. Same for the 15psi run it peaked at 14.6 lbs and then made 12.5 ish for the rest of the run. Im not complaining though as it made great power and held it till redline, so its not like its really boost drop or causing a power loss. With the eboost2 i can only recall peak boost though.

 

[jodadejss06gt]

Thats weird on the boost drop J?!?! Mine holds right on 8 the whole way through to 6k. I'm guessing that there probably is some way with the e2 to keep it constant instead of spiking like that.

Still issues with the turbo! I'm trying to figure this out. If I send it back and they try to machine it or anything to make the turbine fit something else would be out of spec and the thing would flow like shit and I'd probably lose power. Its not even a precision turbo. Its like inovative or something like that. Precision's flanges are supposedly machined cast instead of having a cast housing with a machine flange welded on. I'm going to call mike tomorrow and see if we can work something out vs trying to send this one back for them to work on it.

 

[GB10]

Sounds suspect to me but if the turbo is bad I'm going to go with a borg warner unit.

If you do, then check out these guys. Cheapest place I found for the BW turbo by far: http://www.diesel-plus.com/home.cfm

I went with this one: http://www.diesel-plus.com/dd_turbo.cfm?npid=9784

 

[JeremyH]

Thats weird on the boost drop J?!?! Mine holds right on 8 the whole way through to 6k. I'm guessing that there probably is some way with the e2 to keep it constant instead of spiking like that.

Still issues with the turbo! I'm trying to figure this out. If I send it back and they try to machine it or anything to make the turbine fit something else would be out of spec and the thing would flow like shit and I'd probably lose power. Its not even a precision turbo. Its like inovative or something like that. Precision's flanges are supposedly machined cast instead of having a cast housing with a machine flange welded on. I'm going to call mike tomorrow and see if we can work something out vs trying to send this one back for them to work on it.

Well when my precsion comes off im sending it in to have the seals replaced to have as a spare.

Im sure its because im running the boost controller. and you r jsut running off the wastgate spring. I messed around with the gate pressure and sensitivity settings some, not a big deal as the power onset is good.

 

[s8v4o]

Two diffrent things, ported shroud and anti-surge. A ported shroud is just how it sounds a compressor cover thats been ported on the inside to flow more than a same size shroud thats not ported. And the anit-surge ports are an option on the s and h shrouds.

What kit? What kind of turbo? If its just oil blowby and the seal hasnt failed then you just nned to make sure you install an oil restrictor, denfinetly keep an eye on it. Those are the two brands i like the bw and precision.

I was under the impression that one is a result of the other. So essentially they are one in the same. Some googling shows this as well from multiple sites.

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/tech_center/turbo_tech103.html

"A Ported Shroud compressor (see Fig. 2) is a feature that is incorporated into the compressor housing. It functions to move the surge line further to the left (see Fig. 3) by allowing some airflow to exit the wheel through the port to keep surge from occurring. This provides additional useable range and allows a larger compressor to be used for higher flow requirements without risking running the compressor into a dangerous surge condition. The presence of the ported shroud usually has a minor negative impact on compressor efficiency."


The kit I bought was a HP Performance with a turbonetics 62mm turbo.

If you do, then check out these guys. Cheapest place I found for the BW turbo by far: http://www.diesel-plus.com/home.cfm

I went with this one: http://www.diesel-plus.com/dd_turbo.cfm?npid=9784

That is the exact same turbo I have already for my 4cyl project. Mine uses a twin scroll housing. I think I got mine at full race. The one above is pretty cheap, I think I paid close to 1000 bucks for mine. I've heard nothing but good things about BW turbos! As soon as my photos are done uploading I'll link some pics.

 

[JeremyH]

I was under the impression that one is a result of the other. So essentially they are one in the same. Some googling shows this as well from multiple sites.

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/tech_center/turbo_tech103.html

"A Ported Shroud compressor (see Fig. 2) is a feature that is incorporated into the compressor housing. It functions to move the surge line further to the left (see Fig. 3) by allowing some airflow to exit the wheel through the port to keep surge from occurring. This provides additional useable range and allows a larger compressor to be used for higher flow requirements without risking running the compressor into a dangerous surge condition. The presence of the ported shroud usually has a minor negative impact on compressor efficiency."


The kit I bought was a HP Performance with a turbonetics 62mm turbo.





That is the exact same turbo I have already for my 4cyl project. Mine uses a twin scroll housing. I think I got mine at full race. The one above is pretty cheap, I think I paid close to 1000 bucks for mine. I've heard nothing but good things about BW turbos! As soon as my photos are done uploading I'll link some pics.

I have seen it explained differently and called a few different things by different companies, but in this instance you are correct, although the reference to it being called a ported cover is usually associated with it having an exclusive inducer bleed ring around the intake port and this is for larger covers (3" +).

Like this:

If it has antisurge ports on the compressor cover, they are refered to as anti-surge cover. Or anti-surge port cover.
Like this:

 

[s8v4o]

I see the visual difference in the turbos you posted but it's my understanding they serve the same purpose despite looking very different. They both help eliminate surge by allowing some airflow to exit the wheel through the port (whether it be a ring or little holes) to keep surge from occurring.

If you can find the sites that explains them as different things I would like to check them out, thanks.

 

[JeremyH]

I see the visual difference in the turbos you posted but it's my understanding they serve the same purpose despite looking very different. They both help eliminate surge by allowing some airflow to exit the wheel through the port (whether it be a ring or little holes) to keep surge from occurring.

If you can find the sites that explains them as different things I would like to check them out, thanks.

Nope you are right they do the same thing the ring is supposed to flow more and is what i was refering to as a ported cover orignaly.

 

[s8v4o]

Keep us posted.

 

[kyoshosp2]

Hmm ask your friend what i would need for a 5.0 2011.. want it to spool soon and make atleats 650-700rwhp... Thanks

 

[retfr8flyr]

Give Mike at PowerHouse a call, he is already testing a new kit for the 5.0.


Earl

 

[Greg Hazlett]

What a day this has been...started the turbo swap and it has not ended...I am sure Jeremy will chime in about the uh oh's we had...he had a lot of oil in the intercooler and the turbo piping as well as needing to replace the 02 sensors which ended up being more than we bargained for.

We removed the bumper, intecooler and piping to clean the oil out; swapped the passenger side without issue but the drivers side...wow....we had to remove the header to get it out, luckily we did not have to take it out of the car/remove the steering shaft to get swap O2's.

While I was arguing with the header Jeremy worked on swapping the oil feed/drain lines from the old turbo to the new one and discovered the pitch was different on the new turbo's oil lines threads and it was too late...off to a shop to have it tapped....sigh...while there we also brought the piece of pipe that needed to be welded shut vice discharging to the atmosphere so not a complete waste of time but not what we planned for.

So Jeremy's car is back home in my garage for another night, LOL!

 

[JeremyH]

Haha, summed it up pretty well!

BTW Greg, I found out the unpainted spring is 11psi for 20-22 in/hg at idle.

With all the piping and cams i see 16-18 in/hg at idle so i def had the wrong spring for my setup, just ordered a 9psi spring it has a white strip on it good for 14-18 in/jg, hope that fixes that problem, its always soomething!

 

[kyoshosp2]

I need a turbo not a kit...