Fallenauthority
Senior Member
Screw the vid, where are the time slips?!?!?Screw the pics! Where's the Vid???
Young Punk Build Volume IV - The game needs change & I'm the mother *@#%en cashier
- Thread starter Matt D
- Start date
05yellowgt
Senior Member
Have you seen the condition of his local drag strip lately? Here is a pic from their last event.Screw the vid, where are the time slips?!?!?
Last edited:
Nuke
Junior "Old Man" Member
Sweet.
FalconGTHO
The Reporter
Screw the pics! Where's the Vid???
Exactly.
Fallenauthority
Senior Member
Lol I know it was a joke
83-88T-Bird Guy
Member
Mike K
WANNA BE FAST
C'mon Matt we need pics or vid asap
Dude, located in the "Mustang Handbook" on page 246, third paragraph down.....it states....
"Thy shall not refer Justin Bieber to any form, fashion, or source of a Mustang forum, especially S197forum.com"........
waketek516
Pedal to the Metal!
Matt D
S197 Pilot
Ok so I slacked on the pics long enough... the last few days this is what ive done 
While waiting for the fuel regulator I finished the wiring that needed to be done. Removed the inner wheel well first.. I ran the power wire from the ford racing fused box through the passenger side harness gromet on the firewall.
Made sure I measured the wires before I cut them and added the ends to the power and ground for the fuse box
Fed them up through an exsisting hole right by the battery
Random shot takin while my pops stopped by lol
For some reason before I didn't think the O2 sensor harness's were going to reach the ford racing harness clips.... but it did Played around with differn't ways to tie it all together and finished that off.
One of the other wires coming off the ford racing harness was for the starter solenoid, I routed that as far away from the header as possible and cut it to length and added the connector to the end aswell.
So I grabbed my old Power / ground wires that goes to the battery and also to the fuse box. Re taped it and put it on. Then attached the starter wires.
While waiting for the fuel regulator I finished the wiring that needed to be done. Removed the inner wheel well first.. I ran the power wire from the ford racing fused box through the passenger side harness gromet on the firewall.
Made sure I measured the wires before I cut them and added the ends to the power and ground for the fuse box
Fed them up through an exsisting hole right by the battery
Random shot takin while my pops stopped by lol
For some reason before I didn't think the O2 sensor harness's were going to reach the ford racing harness clips.... but it did
Played around with differn't ways to tie it all together and finished that off.
One of the other wires coming off the ford racing harness was for the starter solenoid, I routed that as far away from the header as possible and cut it to length and added the connector to the end aswell.
So I grabbed my old Power / ground wires that goes to the battery and also to the fuse box. Re taped it and put it on. Then attached the starter wires.
Matt D
S197 Pilot
I bought the two new Rad hoses from ford along with new heater core hoses (2011 spec)
Ok so the part that I was avoiding for last... There is a lead off the main ford racing harness with a female to male clip with a few leads. Ground, 2 Ignition wires, Fuel pump lead and tach signal. I ran this part to the driver side under the dash.
I ran the fuel pump wire first feeding it along with an existing harness under the carpet on the driver side, through a rubber groment where the rear seat use to go along the fuel line to the pump. The ford racing fuse box has a relay for the fuel pump.
The ground can ither be hooked up to the clutch pedal switch (so it engages like factory and pushing the clutch is mandatory) instead I decided to go straight to the chassis and by pass that all together (car will fire without the clutch being pushed all the way down, race car styles) The one ignition wire I taped into a white wire under the steering colum that is temp power when the key is intially turned on and then shuts off (will have to get pics of that) and the other is solid power all the time once ignition is on)The tach lead I left alone for now until I hook up my Autometer monster tach. I didn't take pics while doing this, which I should of... But I just wanted to get it done asap lol
Off the ford racing harness is a power and ground for the fan. I cut the old wires off and removed the old sensor. I re connected the clip on the fan to the new wires (no picture for that)
Ok so the part that I was avoiding for last... There is a lead off the main ford racing harness with a female to male clip with a few leads. Ground, 2 Ignition wires, Fuel pump lead and tach signal. I ran this part to the driver side under the dash.
I ran the fuel pump wire first feeding it along with an existing harness under the carpet on the driver side, through a rubber groment where the rear seat use to go along the fuel line to the pump. The ford racing fuse box has a relay for the fuel pump.
The ground can ither be hooked up to the clutch pedal switch (so it engages like factory and pushing the clutch is mandatory) instead I decided to go straight to the chassis and by pass that all together (car will fire without the clutch being pushed all the way down, race car styles
) The one ignition wire I taped into a white wire under the steering colum that is temp power when the key is intially turned on and then shuts off (will have to get pics of that) and the other is solid power all the time once ignition is on)The tach lead I left alone for now until I hook up my Autometer monster tach. I didn't take pics while doing this, which I should of... But I just wanted to get it done asap lolOff the ford racing harness is a power and ground for the fan. I cut the old wires off and removed the old sensor. I re connected the clip on the fan to the new wires (no picture for that)
Matt D
S197 Pilot
So the Aeromotive regulator I had ordered was a small one...it still hadn't arrived so I just bought the A1000 Reg and got to work. -10straight with o ring to -8 reduced on each side. -6 straight to -6 an with a -6 90 degree hose end on the bottom (the bottom -6 is the return) I bought a russel fuel pressure gauge and put that on too. I bent the bracket that come on the Aeromtive regulator and added it to the shock tower. I drilled a new hole and bolted it down. (Cannot have a fuel regulator bolted to the firewall)
I cut my fuel line accordingly and put everything into action. The -8 line off the fuel rails is looped like that so it comes out behind the intake cover for a clean install
Ok so the last bit off work which happened last Sunday. I installed the Rad hoses, Tightened all the fuel fittings (I left them all snug) Installed the accesorie belt (came in the alternator kit)
I clipped the main harness off the 5.0 to the new ecu, and attached one ground wire to the chassis.
On the new 2011 the Rad res tank has a line that feeds to the thermostat housing area (which my old line worked for) and a new line that goes into a small water feed bythe intake (whichmy moroso alum rad tank doesn't have being 05 spec) So I capped that off for now. One thing that I am missing.... The intake has two leads for vacumm off what I beleive is a bypass... I capped them off (not knowing where they go yet) Which resulted in the motor shutting off after about 7-8 seconds of running. I am going to figure that out asap.
Filled the fuel cell with 94 octane, Took the line off the fuel rail and put it into a fuel jug. Turned on the ignition for the first time and the fuel pump comes on and starts pouring fuel out of the line into the jug (just making sure the line is cleaned out) shut it off and re attached.
I had my Dad looking under the hood to make sure everything is OK. Always a good idea for an extra set of eyes on first start up
Cranked the motor over a few times and build some oil pressure.
When it came down to the few seconds before starting it... I had butterflys
I had done alot of things at once and was hoping everything was going to work the first shot...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gx3xql34T8k
BAM!!! I was very pumped to hear it start This was open headers. I still have a few things to do but I can say it's almost ready for spring break 
That's My pops in the video
The computer code isn't on SCT's software yet. So I am working with SCT right now to get the ecu code on the system so I can get the tuning side of things going.
I am still waiting on my Autometer 5" speedo so once that arrives I will wire and install the monster tach and that speedo at the same time. My New H-pipe does fit with my current drive shaft loop so a BMR loop will be going in along with a Magnaflow 3" exhaust. I will update as I do more on the car, more videos to come aswell!
I cut my fuel line accordingly and put everything into action. The -8 line off the fuel rails is looped like that so it comes out behind the intake cover for a clean install
Ok so the last bit off work which happened last Sunday. I installed the Rad hoses, Tightened all the fuel fittings (I left them all snug) Installed the accesorie belt (came in the alternator kit)
I clipped the main harness off the 5.0 to the new ecu, and attached one ground wire to the chassis.
On the new 2011 the Rad res tank has a line that feeds to the thermostat housing area (which my old line worked for) and a new line that goes into a small water feed bythe intake (whichmy moroso alum rad tank doesn't have being 05 spec) So I capped that off for now. One thing that I am missing.... The intake has two leads for vacumm off what I beleive is a bypass... I capped them off (not knowing where they go yet) Which resulted in the motor shutting off after about 7-8 seconds of running. I am going to figure that out asap.
Filled the fuel cell with 94 octane, Took the line off the fuel rail and put it into a fuel jug. Turned on the ignition for the first time and the fuel pump comes on and starts pouring fuel out of the line into the jug (just making sure the line is cleaned out) shut it off and re attached.
I had my Dad looking under the hood to make sure everything is OK. Always a good idea for an extra set of eyes on first start up
Cranked the motor over a few times and build some oil pressure.
When it came down to the few seconds before starting it... I had butterflys
I had done alot of things at once and was hoping everything was going to work the first shot...http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gx3xql34T8k
BAM!!! I was very pumped to hear it start
This was open headers. I still have a few things to do but I can say it's almost ready for spring break That's My pops in the video The computer code isn't on SCT's software yet. So I am working with SCT right now to get the ecu code on the system so I can get the tuning side of things going.
I am still waiting on my Autometer 5" speedo so once that arrives I will wire and install the monster tach and that speedo at the same time. My New H-pipe does fit with my current drive shaft loop so a BMR loop will be going in along with a Magnaflow 3" exhaust. I will update as I do more on the car, more videos to come aswell!
Last edited:
08candyappleGT
Junior Member
- Joined
- Feb 17, 2009
- Posts
- 14
- Reaction score
- 0
been watching this for a while now. Just bad ass!! congrats man!
Matt D
S197 Pilot
I am missing some small details lol I put the vacumm line onto the regulator, and the main one off the booster to the back of the intake.... I will edit the details at the end, I just wanted to get most of this up for now
Matt D
S197 Pilot
Similar threads
Support us!
Support Us - Become A Supporting Member Today!
Click Here For Details