Critique/Give Opinion of My Build Plans

PaxtonGT05

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Car currently has mods in signature, all stock drivetrain. As of now I really only drive the car a few times a month and it hasn't been to the track yet. The car is paid off, so I have decided I would rather build it as it breaks, rather than sell it, lose my ass, then buy a GT500 and be stuck with a big car payment for years on end, all the while still having the itch to mod said car (GT500). I don't really plan to sell the car at this point, it is paid off, it looks exactly how I want and has sentimental value. So the resale of the GT500 isn't even really a positive of going that route.

The car is a street car. However, I will get the itch to go to the track. On street tires I wouldn't worry too much about the rear. Mainly the clutch, transmission, and of course the engine. I would eventually like a cheap truck and trailer to not worry about breaking at the track. With a truck, I would be comfortable with running bias plys at the track. Then, as things broke, which they of course would...

My plans are as follows: build/replace as things break.

Engine: I may get lucky and have it last, but it will eventually let go I am aware. Most likely a rod through the block. I have looked at reputable Mustang shops and it seems a mildly built 3V could be had for around $6,000, then of course the supporting fuel mods, etc, labor, etc. and it's definitely $8,000+ to have the engine built to handle say 650 wheel hp, through my Paxton 2200.

Transmission: still on stock clutch, I feel it would be smart to just swap transmissions to what I really want, JPC T56 Magnum kit $5,500 - instead of put in good clutch, then eventually wear out the TR3650, and need a new better transmission anyhow. Obviously a clutch is cheaper than a T56, but talking long haul, if the Transmission comes out, and I have the savings for it, might as well swap transmissions, aluminum driveshaft, etc.

Rear end: Hoping it holds, I feel like the first thing to go with street driving and my power would be the clutch packs which I could replace. However, as the itch comes to go to the track, specifically with bias plys, then the axles, and other components of the rear are at risk. If axles break just upgrade, but if internal gear damage, I would think it would be best at that point to just upgrade to a Moser fully built unit. It seems they run around $2,000.

Please give me your build experiences and if anything I am saying sounds downright stupid. The car would be 75% street and maybe 25% track over its life. It is paid off, I have no plans of selling. I know the GT500 is a better platform. However that requires a large monthly payment, and all said and done would be no cheaper to get into the low 10's (upgraded blower etc.) than sticking with my car. Even if it was a few grand cheaper overall, I have listed other reasons I would prefer to keep this car. Not to mention, if I get in a bind with finances at any point, if the 3V breaks, it just sits in the garage until I can afford to fix.... with a GT500 payment, it will either be struggle financially for awhile or sell it.

Let me hear it!
 
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stkjock

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MOVED - this is not a tech topic....

FWIW - as someone who almost went down the path you're contemplating.... wait, save, get a GT500.

you're suggesting putting $15K+ into the car, you can find GT500s for the high 20's to low 30s, simple mods (cheap mods) on the 07-09s will gain 100 hp, motor is able to take 700 whp stock
 

PaxtonGT05

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MOVED - this is not a tech topic....

FWIW - as someone who almost went down the path you're contemplating.... wait, save, get a GT500.

What was the deciding factor for your decision? And what makes you happy about your decision? I over think everything so I like to hear all angles.

Thanks

Edit: just saw your edit
 

stkjock

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well, I bought a modded GT500, making 800+, so speed wise I was instantly happy.

after looking at spending $8000 on a motor, $5000 on a transmission, $1200-1500 on a fuel system, I felt that selling my car and getting at the time, ~$20-21K (I got less), plus the $14-15K min (probably more like $17-18K) to step it up, that spending the extra on a GT500 that was turn key made much more sense.

plus the car looks better, had a nicer interior, and it's a Shelby ;-}
 

PaxtonGT05

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well, I bought a modded GT500, making 800+, so speed wise I was instantly happy.

after looking at spending $8000 on a motor, $5000 on a transmission, $1200-1500 on a fuel system, I felt that selling my car and getting at the time, ~$20-21K (I got less), plus the $14-15K min (probably more like $17-18K) to step it up, that spending the extra on a GT500 that was turn key made much more sense.

plus the car looks better, had a nicer interior, and it's a Shelby ;-}

I hear you. Valid points. My situation would be more along the lines of about $12,000 for my car. Or maybe a bit more if parted out. But I do understand where you're coming from. I think one of the differences is possibly disposable income. While I could swing the GT500 payment, I feel I may be more strained in other areas. Whereas if I'm saving for mods, I'm more flexible. It's a tough decision and an expensive one at that. Thanks for your insight. Bad-ass car by the way!
 

stkjock

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well I was fortunate that the out of pocket money was not really an issue for me at the time.

yes, your car will get less, but the GT500s have also come down a lot in the 7 years since I made the swap.

my .02 - save for the Shelby instead of the mods.
 

PaxtonGT05

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well I was fortunate that the out of pocket money was not really an issue for me at the time.

yes, your car will get less, but the GT500s have also come down a lot in the 7 years since I made the swap.

my .02 - save for the Shelby instead of the mods.

:patriot:
 

46addict

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You don't need to spend $6k on the engine. It's like $1250 for off the shelf forged pistons, rings, and Boss 302 rods. $82 for the FRPP head changing kit (two head gaskets and studs) and any gaskets you want to replace while the engine is apart can be added up here. You will also need to decide if you are buying TTY engine studs or go "ARP everything". The latter will substantially raise costs and there are pros and cons to both options. Then figure $1500 to $2k for machine work, balancing, and assembly (I may be off on this so double check with your shop). For 650whp you can use the stock crank, block, and heads. You can also keep the stock returnless fuel system which keeps costs low. A Walbro/S&H 405lph fuel pump with Deka 80lb injectors will run you $750-800. You already have the pump so that's savings for you.

Then you can get a used/rebuilt TR-6060 6 speed transmission with a clutch, crossmember, and stock GT500 driveshaft for around $2500 if you shop around.

The stock rear end should hold. The weak list is the differential and you can get a TrueTrac for $550.

So for less than $7k it's possible to get into the 10s.
 

PaxtonGT05

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You don't need to spend $6k on the engine. It's like $1250 for off the shelf forged pistons, rings, and Boss 302 rods. $82 for the FRPP head changing kit (two head gaskets and studs) and any gaskets you want to replace while the engine is apart can be added up here. You will also need to decide if you are buying TTY engine studs or go "ARP everything". The latter will substantially raise costs and there are pros and cons to both options. Then figure $1500 to $2k for machine work, balancing, and assembly (I may be off on this so double check with your shop). For 650whp you can use the stock crank, block, and heads. You can also keep the stock returnless fuel system which keeps costs low. A Walbro/S&H 405lph fuel pump with Deka 80lb injectors will run you $750-800. You already have the pump so that's savings for you.

Then you can get a used/rebuilt TR-6060 6 speed transmission with a clutch, crossmember, and stock GT500 driveshaft for around $2500 if you shop around.

The stock rear end should hold. The weak list is the differential and you can get a TrueTrac for $550.

So for less than $7k it's possible to get into the 10s.

Solid advice! You are right I was estimating a bit high on a few things. Obviously the transmission could run cheaper if I got a rebuilt unit. The engine price I came up with was figuring worst case scenario of putting a rod through the block and ruining the heads before I'm able to build. Therefore I would need a shortblock/used heads. But if I could get the engine built and not have it throw a rod beforehand it could be significantly cheaper to do.

The rear was sort of the same deal. I have 4.10's that have some decel whine and the last time the pinion seal was replaced I don't believe the preload was set correctly. So I figured if the rear end self implodes at some point may be less hassle to replace the whole assembly.

But I agree that it would be smarter to shop around and not just buy what's brand new = most expensive. Especially being a weekend warrior and not dedicated track car.
 

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That Magnum XL trans is an absolute dream to drive. The reviews on how easy it shifts at high rpm's are dead on. The JPC driveshaft is a nice piece, however, the bolt holes for the rear flange did not line up correctly on mine, I had "massage" 2 of the holes to be able to get all 6 bolts in. I read some reviews that others had the same issue with the DS. Not a huge deal, but a huge PITA. LOL

When it comes time for a trans, the Magnum XL is the way to go.

The 8.8 rear is pretty stout, already 31 spline. A set of axles (while you're in there for gears) is all is really needed IMO for hard launches with slicks.
 

PaxtonGT05

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That Magnum XL trans is an absolute dream to drive. The reviews on how easy it shifts at high rpm's are dead on. The JPC driveshaft is a nice piece, however, the bolt holes for the rear flange did not line up correctly on mine, I had "massage" 2 of the holes to be able to get all 6 bolts in. I read some reviews that others had the same issue with the DS. Not a huge deal, but a huge PITA. LOL

When it comes time for a trans, the Magnum XL is the way to go.

The 8.8 rear is pretty stout, already 31 spline. A set of axles (while you're in there for gears) is all is really needed IMO for hard launches with slicks.

Cool, glad to hear about the Transmission!
 

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Like Dave mentioned, an 07-09 GT500 is such a cheap buy right now it just doesn't make sense to spend that kind of money on the 3v. Obviously I don't know your financial situation, but if you're talking about not being able to afford the increase in payment/insurance that a GT500 brings with it, are you able to afford to dump that kind of money into the 3v? Stuff gets expensive real fast.

Slap a TVS on a GT500, keep it under 18 psi and around 6000 rpm and the thing will last forever. 650 whp, no problem about it. Will eventually need a clutch, and the rear diff could be an issue depending on how much drag racing you do, but the motor and trans won't care a single bit.

Not to sound like a prick, but I've done just about everything you can think of to a GT500 (aside from turbos). We've done stuff from 550 whp stock blower bolt on cars to 1200+ whp built motor Texas Mile racers. Nothing is cheaper speed than a 650whp GT500, especially now with the 07-09s. I personally don't like to cross the 650 whp mark if you intend to beat on it. Anything more than that when used aggressively is on borrowed time.
 

GallopingFord

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If you love the car you have, enough... build it. If not, sell it and buy a GT500.

I've been running around with my 5.4L GT500-Swapped Bullitt for about 4 years now. I love it. I enjoy the build and I enjoy driving it more now. LT's, cams, TVS blower, plus then some later I'm enjoying my 800~hp 5.4L in the shell of what most think it just a 3V.

I've owned 2 GT500's and they were fun too.... but I enjoyed my own creation more. Everyone is different. It was a lot of money tied up in this project and the only time I regret it is when I look at the collection of receipts... besides that I'm happy I went this route.
 
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