2005 GT driver side not firing properly

Yann Bullet · Jul 15, 2026

My Mustang (2005 GT) has been in the shop for over 2 weeks getting a timing chain job done. Now they are taking even longer because the left side is not firing properly these are the codes they told me P0345, P0349, P0357. Any experts in here that could help me out, and tell me how fast this can/should be done. Thank you.

Dino Dino Bambino · Jul 15, 2026

Sounds like you need to find another shop!
If it can't properly complete a timing job after more than two weeks that smells of incompetence to me. I'll bet they've f***ed up and got the cam timing wrong.

Yann Bullet · Jul 15, 2026

They finished the timing job. Been a week since they are trying to figure out the codes and driver side misfire

StockishS197 · Jul 15, 2026

Yann Bullet said:
They finished the timing job. Been a week since they are trying to figure out the codes and driver side misfire

Sounds like they finished it wrong tbh. If they just did a timing job and it’s throwing timing codes, it ain’t right.

They need to pull the front cover, inspect the timing marks and make sure it’s actually in time. If it isn’t/wasnt, then I would also make them inspect the cylinders for any piston to valve issues, because even if you are off by only a few teeth, PTV can occur.

Do NOT take the car until they make it right.

GriffX · Thursday at 2:20 AM

Had similar experience with a workshop here - got the car back not repaired and decided to buy a garage lift.
The problem is, even if you get the car back with no error, you cannot trust them, engine can have a hidden damage now.

whitmanink · Thursday at 2:25 AM

yea i did the timing like 3 times now on these 3v,,
very very easy..

but a few things to note here..
** are they using fords timing kit ? or a knock off?
** if the phaser trigger arms get bent during the install ,then the cam sensor will trip a code saying the bank is outta time,
*** the cams installed correctly .?

as said before , this shop seems not so smart..
if i can be an honest dick for a moment,
these are again, the exact reasons i do all my own work , period,,
because even if i dont know what im doing, i have enough available
information and aptitude to get it done ,
and thus far i am doing pretty good ,

i know not everyone has a garage and tools,, but if you do , no excuse ..

Samos3 · Thursday at 1:49 PM

GriffX said:
View attachment 117604
Had similar experience with a workshop here - got the car back not repaired and decided to buy a garage lift.
The problem is, even if you get the car back with no error, you cannot trust them, engine can have a hidden damage now.

While I agree with the sentiment, didn't he grab the box without the stones and then die trying to correct his own error?....just clarifying.....

DieHarder · Saturday at 1:41 PM

whitmanink said:
yea i did the timing like 3 times now on these 3v,,
very very easy..

but a few things to note here..
** are they using fords timing kit ? or a knock off?
** if the phaser trigger arms get bent during the install ,then the cam sensor will trip a code saying the bank is outta time,
*** the cams installed correctly .?

as said before , this shop seems not so smart..
if i can be an honest dick for a moment,
these are again, the exact reasons i do all my own work , period,,
because even if i dont know what im doing, i have enough available
information and aptitude to get it done ,
and thus far i am doing pretty good ,

i know not everyone has a garage and tools,, but if you do , no excuse ..

Agree with doing your own work sentiment. Up to the point where the repair is not exactly apparent or cost effective.. Example: Have had two instances of Coils on Plugs (COPs) going bad. (Last instance was the week before last.) Since I've seen the same symptoms before (engine bogs and bucks) rather than swapping COPs around in the hopes that I find the right one/s I'd rather take it into a dealer for a diagnostic which typically runs ~$200; helps me narrow down the issue and worth it in my mind vs throwing spit wads at the wall.

That said. Once I have a definitive answer I always do the repair myself unless I just can't due to physical ability or the job is beyond my expertise. That usually has been the best trade off in my experience and saves me hundreds if not thousands in inflated repair costs. The most recent visit to the dealer said COPs 7/8 were bad which the tech moved to 5/6 to validate... (problem moved so I'm thinking easy fix). Then the service person quoted me a price to replace those two COPs - $800... for two COPs; or get this $1800 for all 8. Yep, $1800 for about an hour's work (even if you're slow). I literally told the service person that was insane... He said yeah he told his manager it was unlikely I would accept the quote... yeah, ya think?

Anyway, I took her home and after about 30 mins; it's literally one 7mm bolt and one electrical connector per COP (Yeah, I'm slower than molasses these days (and supercharged so I had to move some things out of the way)). So, two OEM COPs later (which I already had) she's running fine again and I saved at least $800. Of course I'm thinking to myself the entire time "It's no wonder everyone avoids the dealer." Don't get me wrong, I don't mind paying a fair price... but I'm not going to be financially raped either. Going forward I don't see that repair costs will improve so as long as I'm able to do my own repairs I will. And when I'm not? Probably time to let someone else enjoy her.

:snoopy

YKYMF

Kev555 · Sunday at 8:32 AM

Not trying to sound arrogant but I don't think I've seen a simpler engine to time, especially with the dark links on the chain. The only potential if I remember correctly to make a mistake could be the chain guides as I noticed one is more offset than the other and could be mixed up making the chain not run true on the guide. The ford workshop PDF manual is a good help the first time you do it. As Dino said find another garage or do it yourself. As somebody else mentioned id be worried they have bent a valve by not timing it properly first time.

whitmanink · Sunday at 8:52 AM

Kev555 said:
Not trying to sound arrogant but I don't think I've seen a simpler engine to time, especially with the dark links on the chain. The only potential if I remember correctly to make a mistake could be the chain guides as I noticed one is more offset than the other and could be mixed up making the chain not run true on the guide. The ford workshop PDF manual is a good help the first time you do it. As Dino said find another garage or do it yourself. As somebody else mentioned id be worried they have bent a valve by not timing it properly first time.

i second this..
my wifes outback was slightly more involved

whitmanink · Sunday at 8:54 AM

DieHarder said:
Agree with doing your own work sentiment. Up to the point where the repair is not exactly apparent or cost effective.. Example: Have had two instances of Coil on Plugs (COPs) going bad. (Last instance was the week before last.) Since I've seen the same symptoms before (engine bogs and bucks) rather than swapping COPs around in the hopes that I find the right one/s I'd rather take it into a dealer for a diagnostic which typically runs ~$200; helps me narrow down the issue and worth it in my mind vs throwing spit wads at the wall.

That said. Once I have a definitive answer I always do the repair myself unless I just can't due to physical ability or the job is beyond my expertise. That usually has been the best trade off in my experience and saves me hundreds if not thousands in inflated repair costs. The most recent visit to the dealer said COPs 7/8 were bad which the tech moved to 5/6 to validate... (problem moved so I'm thinking easy fix). Then the service person quoted me a price to replace those two COPs - $800... for two COPs; or get this $1800 for all 8. Yep, $1800 for about an hour's work (even if you're slow). I literally told the service person that was insane... He said yeah he told his manager it was unlikely I would accept the quote... yeah, ya think?

Anyway, I took her home and after about 30 mins; it's literally one 7mm bolt and one electrical connector per COP (Yeah, I'm slower than molasses these days (and supercharged so I had to move some things out of the way)). So, two OEM COPs later (which I already had) she's running fine again and I saved at least $800. Of course I'm thinking to myself the entire time "It's no wonder everyone avoids the dealer." Don't get me wrong, I don't mind paying a fair price... but I'm not going to be financially raped either. Going forward I don't see that repair costs will improve so as long as I'm able to do my own repairs I will do so. And when I'm not? Probably time to let someone else enjoy her.

the cop cause soooooooo many issues for people,,
infact when you have a bog and or stutter you almost have to replace both and or get a cop tester and a spark plug tester to rule out good ones to only buy the bad ones,,

but they are so expensive by themselves that unless you only need to replace two ,,, its almost better to buy the set

DieHarder said:
YKYMF

DieHarder · Sunday at 10:20 AM

whitmanink said:
the cop cause soooooooo many issues for people,,
infact when you have a bog and or stutter you almost have to replace both and or get a cop tester and a spark plug tester to rule out good ones to only buy the bad ones,,

but they are so expensive by themselves that unless you only need to replace two ,,, its almost better to buy the set

https://www.ebay.com/itm/366547825678?_skw=dg511+ignition+coil+motorcraft&itmmeta=01KXXBXMM7MM1C7PH5BB1F6M59&hash=item5557f3f40e:g:vrsAAeSwUbhp72qp&itmprp=enc%3AAQALAAABAGfYFPkwiKCW4ZNSs2u11xCPGVW%2BHRaaXfLY8OPecFAWEKLEsU%2BgWKOM3qXDFJxDHAXBLMhvrCMhKzr0qA0Homu9mak3b4MDIAPpgVQO0kS1ocaLVWI697ouodbKlsCLtavyv5i%2BGzei1CoeN%2B%2FwIyP0r7zbA5y0Ot0h%2FKQY6kaiVhy6y8BefPcFjwJvOu38ZPJ3i28%2BkLXPfdh3kuszgt8e0EqTyllYbsYayxaQeQLherwL4JHnwOHCGdr9ycAfXV1d3QrA5HD99PlEYiUR4TuASVbGbeE2u%2FPYeIt1hShrc%2FrD9477DpG%2B5dWZEznmIGNeijtKivjVx1EHh2L4S80%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR7DK9qvvZw

whitmanink · Monday at 2:25 AM

DieHarder said:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/366547825678?_skw=dg511+ignition+coil+motorcraft&itmmeta=01KXXBXMM7MM1C7PH5BB1F6M59&hash=item5557f3f40e:g:vrsAAeSwUbhp72qp&itmprp=enc%3AAQALAAABAGfYFPkwiKCW4ZNSs2u11xCPGVW%2BHRaaXfLY8OPecFAWEKLEsU%2BgWKOM3qXDFJxDHAXBLMhvrCMhKzr0qA0Homu9mak3b4MDIAPpgVQO0kS1ocaLVWI697ouodbKlsCLtavyv5i%2BGzei1CoeN%2B%2FwIyP0r7zbA5y0Ot0h%2FKQY6kaiVhy6y8BefPcFjwJvOu38ZPJ3i28%2BkLXPfdh3kuszgt8e0EqTyllYbsYayxaQeQLherwL4JHnwOHCGdr9ycAfXV1d3QrA5HD99PlEYiUR4TuASVbGbeE2u%2FPYeIt1hShrc%2FrD9477DpG%2B5dWZEznmIGNeijtKivjVx1EHh2L4S80%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR7DK9qvvZw

there is no way id trust that.
i just got a brand new ford oem set of cop from summit racing and they are stil $240 ish.

these are fake no doubt, clones
these will cause problems
i bought two different cop sets ,, (one from amazon , the other from AM ,,)
both sets had a bad cop from the get go.

the ford ones , perfect,

id like to know how they play these as real?

whitmanink · Monday at 2:27 AM

Pardon Our Interruption

DieHarder · Monday at 8:13 AM

whitmanink said:
there is no way id trust that.
i just got a brand new ford oem set of cop from summit racing and they are stil $240 ish.

these are fake no doubt, clones
these will cause problems
i bought two different cop sets ,, (one from amazon , the other from AM ,,)
both sets had a bad cop from the get go.

the ford ones , perfect,

id like to know how they play these as real?

Good question. Will buy a set from Summit and keep the others in reserve.

GriffX · Monday at 9:26 AM

Our coils do not have a build in diode, so you can test the resistance with a multimeter. It is a good idea to write the value down (or on it) when they are new, they age over time, resulting in a weaker spark.

royjj12 · Monday at 7:38 PM

whitmanink said:
the cop cause soooooooo many issues for people,,
infact when you have a bog and or stutter you almost have to replace both and or get a cop tester and a spark plug tester to rule out good ones to only buy the bad ones,,

but they are so expensive by themselves that unless you only need to replace two ,,, its almost better to buy the set

I had a similar issue recently with my 2006; it was missing upon hard acceleration. I did some troubleshooting before finally deciding to visit the dealer and pay them the diagnostic fee. They padded the bill for issues that had nothing to do with my missing issue. They wanted $1400 plus the $240 diagnostic fee to make tentative repairs. They identified 3 spark plugs with burned/deformed grounding straps. I had some aftermarket COPs installed, but they were fine. They said that they would make the repairs and have to investigate further after that, resulting in additional costs. I pointed out the bill padding and told them not to make any repairs. I took my car home and changed the spark plugs. The car runs fine. Another example of why they are called "stealerships". They earn the title.

whitmanink · 2026-07-22T02:15:36-0400

GriffX said:
Our coils do not have a build in diode, so you can test the resistance with a multimeter. It is a good idea to write the value down (or on it) when they are new, they age over time, resulting in a weaker spark.

one thing i will note here ,

when testing to try to figure out what ones were bad,
i tested resistance.. funny is they all checked out.
but clearly there was an issue with at least one.

now that said, maybe if i would have written each one (resistance ) down since new, maybe i could see a big difference on one or more but from the ranges i was finding online , mine tested in spec?

but that's why i say when in doubt , just change them out,

GriffX · 2026-07-22T03:49:11-0400

whitmanink said:
one thing i will note here ,

when testing to try to figure out what ones were bad,
i tested resistance.. funny is they all checked out.
but clearly there was an issue with at least one.

now that said, maybe if i would have written each one (resistance ) down since new, maybe i could see a big difference on one or more but from the ranges i was finding online , mine tested in spec?

but that's why i say when in doubt , just change them out,

Pretty sure, shortcuts in the secondary coil is only one way to die for a COP. If the good coil has 4kOhm and one has only 3 kOhm, you found a smoking gun. On my R4 new coils had 7 kOhm and the 20 years old had only 4 kOhm, after change the engine was running much smoother. At my Suzuki, I had a misfire on one cylinder and found a burned coil boot making a shortcut along the ceramic of the spark plug. How does this happen? Don't know.

2005 GT driver side not firing properly

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