05+ Alternator Failures

[scramblr]

I never knew about the piggyback thing. I just but some 4 gauge cable and made my own.

 

[toorbeenee]

i know this is an older thread but i just wanted to add some info,

i had 2 alternator go out and i did not replace them, i have replaced the regulator and it is still working fine, here is a link on ebay,,, not bad for $24

http://www.ebay.com/itm/320679464692?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649

 

[JimC]

My alternator went out in December

But with 189,872 miles on it at that time I didn't think it was something to complain about. Not sure why mine seems to have lasted so much longer than so many others.

 

[CandyRedGT]

I relocated my battery (optima) to the trunk at the end of 2010. The original cables are tied to the cable kit that came with the Steeda battery box. I now assume that i need to undo everything where they are attached together...and run an alternator wire to the trunk? Actually i did not move the battery myself. The shop doing alot of work to my ccar at that time moved it for me. Thanks, Joe

 

[kylecm85]

I relocated my battery (optima) to the trunk at the end of 2010. The original cables are tied to the cable kit that came with the Steeda battery box. I now assume that i need to undo everything where they are attached together...and run an alternator wire to the trunk? Actually i did not move the battery myself. The shop doing alot of work to my ccar at that time moved it for me. Thanks, Joe

So is it technically is it two pieces of wire connected together. If so you would be better off replacing it with one straight run of atleast 4awg wire. Better flow and will charge better. Also while you are there. Make sure it has a good solid ground. Better safe than sorry down the road trying to chase that down.

 

[CandyRedGT]

So is it technically is it two pieces of wire connected together. If so you would be better off replacing it with one straight run of atleast 4awg wire. Better flow and will charge better. Also while you are there. Make sure it has a good solid ground. Better safe than sorry down the road trying to chase that down.

When they did it..they said they connected the "battery cable to trunk" wire(came with Steeda box) to my stock cable ends...incase i ever wanted to return the car to stock. The battery was moved due to installing a Canton battery box mount reserve tank for my larger hear exchanger. All i know is the connection is all taped up below the battery box(old location) with a ton of electrical tape.

 

[kylecm85]

I see what they did then. It's up to you on if your comfortable with it like that. Me personally I would re do it with atleast heat shrink. Less chance of moisture and the elements corroding it.

 

[CandyRedGT]

Thanks alot. What about the alternator wire?? I'm thinking of adding the PA 200 amp alternator...even though so far..... i've NOT had any issues. The extra amps pulled by the dual cooling fans on my heat exchanger and the coolant pump that feeds it hAS to be stressing the stock alternator. And my Longacre battery switch at the rear( i replaced the cheapo Taylor one that came in the kit....crapped out in less than a year) has a small terminal for the alt wire?? Mine never did have one back there? The Taylor switch didn't even have a terminal for the alternator. Says in instruction for Longacre...it's to save the alternator...i assume if you flip the kill switch while it's running????

 

[kylecm85]

I would say if you are planning on going with the 200a you could use 2awg wire. You can use a welding wire. But it's not as flexible as a true audio wire. Jl audio makes some good quality wire that flexes and comes in that size. Might be a little pricey. But it's a true ofc copper wire. Just make sure which ever wire you go with its a tru wire size. From the sounds of what you are doing. It would be feasible to have one good solid run to work from on your switch. I come from the audio side. I won't use a power wire for even an amp that has a break in it besides a fuse holder.

 

[CandyRedGT]

OK thanks. So if i get the thread correctly...the PA alternator needs the larger wire that goes from the alt to a junction box..correct? Then the actual battery cable runs to the rear of the car. What about the small terminal on the Longacre cut-off switch that is marked..ALT? Thanks so much again!!

 

[kylecm85]

That I am honestly not sure about on the junction box. Hopefully someone else can chime in. I will have to go back and look at the write up from pa performance.

 

[LordBritish]

I just installed a PA Performance 130A Alternator.

I had to remove the water pump pulley because it's oversized (UDP) and I couldn't reach the right bottom bolt of the alternator with it on.

Other than that, it was fairly simple.

Only cost me like $230

 

[BOSS324]

I got the dreaded DTC P0340 code...cleared it came back on a day later. I had it tested and showed 13.92v and battery is good. Huh...well Based on all the feedback on multi threads here and forums I ordered a PA Performance 130a in flat black...lol