2006 Mustang GT JBA Header Install Question

[HitandRunDriver]

I'm about halfway into my header install, everything seems to be going fine until I start removing the studs. The ARP fasteners that I was recommended from JBA were this set here:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-400-1210?seid=srese1&gclid=CLO2vKOsib4CFVKIfgodsy4ATg

As I start taking out studs I realize that these are thinner than the ARP kit I'd ordered. Did I get bad info or am I worrying here for no reason? I've yet to get back under the car and really assess the situation.

 

[skwerl]

On my JBA headers I just reused the stock studs except for the three that wouldn't clear. On those three I used the supplied bolts and lock washers. Be aware those bolts will loosen up and you will need to retorque them after a few heat cycles.

I can't imagine any need for aftermarket ARP studs in this application. The factory ones are expensive enough and there's no need to use even more expensive fasteners.

 

[HitandRunDriver]

I got these off a user on the forum and they didn't include the JBA bolts...I contacted JBA and they said to use these. Do you have a recommendation to where I can get a bolt that would fit those locations? Would it be a stupid idea to run for a few days missing three header bolts? I'm already 5 hours in and don't want it to be for nothing.

 

[Wes06]

the bolts you want are part number 661-1003

they are a M8 x 30

I did this install in july and used those bolts, also 2006 GT with JBA headers, but i did re-use a few studs and simply sawed them down slightly in a few tighter spots

however you can probably use the bolts if you buy a M8 x 25, not sure these are just the ones i bought

 

[skwerl]

You can buy bolts at any hardware store. Take one of your studs with you to match up the threads. It will be a metric thread about 6 or 8 mm and the length is about an inch as far as I can recall. Nothing special about the bolts they included with the kit.

If you run it without the bolts in place you will likely have an exhaust leak and may damage the gaskets (depending on which style you used).

edit: Treed by Wes.

 

[HitandRunDriver]

Thanks for the quick help guys. I guess I'll run out and grab some at home depot, any suggestion on the finishes, I know our heads are aluminum and I don't want to be the dumbass who screws them up.

So M8 x 30 and washers or are those not needed?

 

[skwerl]

Bring one of your old studs to verify length. You have the part of the stud that screws into the head plus the thickness of your header flange plus flat and lock washers. I'd use stainless if they have them, otherwise zinc plated will be fine.

 

[HitandRunDriver]

Ok, so M8 x 30 mm, flat washers, and lock washers. Thanks Skwerl

 

[Wes06]

goodluck with your install, it took me and a friend 12 hours, granted we stopped for pizza, and lots of swearing will be needed....hah

 

[BruceH]

You can probably cut down the studs that won't fit. I'd skip the arp fasteners altogether. Stage 8 work well and have a locking mechanism so they won't loosen up.

 

[Sprayin Blue 3V]

The stock studs also make them easier to install IMO.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

 

[corey5988]

When I did my JBA install I reused the OEM gaskets and studs. I just cut down the few studs that were too long.

 

[Pentalab]

When I did my JBA install I reused the OEM gaskets and studs. I just cut down the few studs that were too long.

Considering how long it takes to install JBA LT's and mating high flow cats etc, I wasn't about to take any chances..and used new FRPP gaskets. Per JBA, they suggest installing new steeda eng mounts at the same time..so in went the steeda heavy duty eng mounts. The FRPP header gaskets are D shaped holes. Watch out, some gaskets out there use round holes instead of the D shape....and they leak like a sieve. Bought the FRPP gaskets at AM.

Out of all the mods, the JBA titanium ceramic coated LT's and high flow catted H made a big improvement in hp /tq. Loads of tq from idle to redline. But it was lean on the dyno....so a new tune was installed. Eng bay temps dropped at least 40 deg F. The ceramic coated headers keep the heat out of the eng bay.. (coated on both inside and outside). The high flow cats are located aprx below the drivers seat. oem cats will hit 1850 deg F @ wot, as indicated on the aeroforce gauge plugged into OBD port. Oem cats are at the base of the eng bay..and also cook the eng bay.

 

[HitandRunDriver]

I had to push my install back a bit but I am hoping temps drop a bit. I may throw cats in down the road but will probably reuse the oem gaskets. The gaskets you were referring to were like 24.99 on American muscle right

 

[808muscle]

Hope your wearing gloves, would hate to hear you bled out under your car! If you don't have a 13mm ratcheting box wrench go get one. Makes it 1000x easier to tighten that hardware.

 

[HitandRunDriver]

Of course haha, and yes if anything this install was an excuse for me to get some flex head ratcheting wrenches...I got a few cuts and scrapes but nothing major

 

[Wes06]

Exactly. Ratcheting box wrenches were amazing

 

[skwerl]

I used my ratcheting flex head wrenches a little but did 95% of the job with a 3/8" drive ratchet and 13mm socket. A couple extensions of different lengths and a swivel adapter allowed me to put a socket on most of the fasteners.

 

[HitandRunDriver]

I had a field day and got some wobble sockets, big ass 3/8 drive extensions, some u joints, 1/2 impact extensions, the ratcheting wrenches and a couple other small things. Nothing like opening a bunch of new tools that you don't have room in your toolbox for.

 

[ksack]

I've still got the catted H from the LTs if you are interested