2006 Saleen SC hesitation

Discussion in '2005+ Mustang GT 4.6L Tech' started by saleen836, Sep 13, 2020.

  1. saleen836

    saleen836 forum member

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    As title, have noticed a couple of times if I am driving under normal conditions (60mph ish) for a few miles then quickly change down to say 3rd gear and step on it hard to overtake the car will hesitate for a split second then drive as normal, has only happened a couple of times but I cant figure out the cause,any suggestions?

    Car is '06 supercharged Saleen with 3.2 pulley & CAI and KB BAP
     
  2. msvela448

    msvela448 forum member

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    I'm not a fan of Boost-a-pumps. Why not spend the money on the Ford GT500 pump kit so it all works like the manufacturer intended.

    And the hesitation you describe could be something to do with transient fueling issues as you cross over from normal voltage to the fuel pump to the higher voltage the BAP provides.

    Do you have a tune?

    I'd recommend calling JDM Engineering in NJ to chat with them about what you are describing. I'd also highly recommend one of their tunes.

    Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
     
    06 T-RED S/C GT likes this.
  3. Laga

    Laga Member

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    Check the ground wire at the BAP. Clean everything and tighten back down. Could be simple corrosion.
     
  4. Laga

    Laga Member

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    Check the ground wire at the BAP. Clean everything and tighten back down. Could be simple corrosion.
     
  5. 07 Boss

    07 Boss Senior Member

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    I'm assuming it's a stick. I remember back in the day some folks had an issue with hesitation or stumbling after cruising at a constant speed and then trying to get on it a bit. It came down to the fuel pump and something to do about cavitation or something like that. I even sent my stock 07 pump to a guy in Canada and it cleared up his issue. I also believe this issue was only in 05s and 06s.
     
  6. 46addict

    46addict 13726548

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    If the BAP and fuel pressure look good, the next things on the list should be checking spark plugs/verifying plug gap, and cleaning the MAF sensor.
     
  7. saleen836

    saleen836 forum member

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    Thanks all, I was running GT500 pumps but they died on me (outside of the grooms house who i was taking to church for his wedding!) so installed the BAP alongside the standard pump that I refitted (car started first time after refitting)
    It is indeed a stick shift and it has only happened the 2 times after cruising at a constant (lowish 60/70mph) speed, other than the initial hesitation it doesnt give any other problems, I will look into upgrading the pump to a later model,or another set of GT500 pumps if the price is right.
     
  8. saleen836

    saleen836 forum member

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  9. 1950StangJump$

    1950StangJump$ forum member

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    First guy says he doesn't like BAPs, then suddenly the fuel system is everyone's suspicion? Seems premature.

    But, if you are going to change out the pump, and you don't have goals above 600 RWHP, I would recommend S&H Performance's Max Returnless. Its a quality kit, and you won't do better before stepping up to a return style.
     
  10. Laga

    Laga Member

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    It is a direct replacement. I installed one of those with my E85 conversation. I still needed the BAP (with a heavier wire for power). You still might need the BAP. There is nothing wrong with the BAP in general. You have a gremlin that needs to be found. It could be the ground, or something else like a vacuum leak. Do some troubleshooting.
     
  11. msvela448

    msvela448 forum member

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    The GT500 kit from Ford (M-9407-GT05) also includes the additional FPDM (Fuel Pump Driver Module) and additional wiring for power. Installing just the GT500 pumps without the driver module and wiring would cause issues.

    I'd again suggest a tune from JDM Engineering. The Ford kit says that tuning is required, not optional.

    My explanation...
    I don't like BAP's because they increase the voltage beyond what the pump was designed for. The internal components of the fuel pump motor were not designed for 17 - 18 volts. Just my opinion that when you drive something beyond its design limits, particularly electronics, you are asking for trouble. Plus, increasing the rail pressure by increasing the pump voltage is a crude and imprecise way to increase fuel delivery. Not to mention the extra strain on fuel system parts (filters, pressure sensor, injector components) from increased pressure it was never designed for (again makes me hesitant on BAP's)

    Properly sized injectors with the proper pulse width, rail pressure, and fueling strategy are superior for driveability in my opinion.

    I know that tons of people use BAP's without issue... I'm just more inclined to buy the correctly sized components than use "trickery" or a band-aid device for the fuel system.

    What I do like about a BAP is their voltage regulation. Maintaing a steady ~14.3 volts to the pump(s) regardless of whether the lights are on or off, the stereo is cranking, the a/c is blowing, windows are being rolled up and down, etc... Is a great idea.

    Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
     
  12. msvela448

    msvela448 forum member

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    Beside all this talk about BAP's... Still would like to help...

    One other thought is to clean up the throttle body and make sure you have the latest throttle body position sensor... There are three versions. The latest one is a rectangular box with the connector on one end (pic below) the older versions are egg / oval shaped.

    Here's a good video on it:


    Might also clean up the MAF while you are in there. Use Mass Air Sensor cleaner from any auto parts store. [​IMG]

    Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
     
  13. scramblr

    scramblr Senior Member S197 Team Member

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  14. 06 T-RED S/C GT

    06 T-RED S/C GT forum member

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    I'm also running the Saleen VI S/C with 39lb injectors, 3.6" pulley, stock fuel pump and JDM engineering 91 octane tune. Previously, I was running a 3.4" pulley, but did not want to install a Boost-a-pump, as I'm also not a fan of them. Anyhow, Jim Jr. from JDM recommended swapping out the 3.4" towards the 3.6" pulley which he assured would run safely with the stock fuel pump in place. Needless to say, I haven't encountered any negative issues at all. That being said, I'd also recommend contacting JDM engineering about the issues your experiencing and would also highly recommend getting one of their tunes as well, being as they were previously an authorized Saleen service center and were also Saleen custom tuning specialists.
     
  15. saleen836

    saleen836 forum member

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    I already have a JDM tune with 39lb injectors HTO plugs etc,the MAF was cleaned when I installed the CAI. I'm not sure why I would still need the BAP if I dropped in the new pump I posted the link to earlier, that states 400lph where as my standard pump is 110lph (i think) with the BAP increasing that it to around 200lph.
     
  16. 06 T-RED S/C GT

    06 T-RED S/C GT forum member

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    If dropping in the Walbro hp 400 lph fuel pump, it is not necessary to add a Boost-a-pump, as 400 lph will provide plenty of fuel on it's own. However, just as msvela488 mentioned, a tune revision is required for the GT500 kit from Ford (M-9407-GT05) and would therefore also assume the same would apply for the Walbro hp fuel pump kit as well. At any rate, I would still contact Jim Jr. over at JDM engineering about your hesitation issues and concerns.
     
  17. saleen836

    saleen836 forum member

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    I have sent an email to JDM asking if I require a tune revision.
     
    06 T-RED S/C GT likes this.
  18. eighty6gt

    eighty6gt forum member

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    My actual fuel pump voltage is often around 5v.

    My BAP is wired pre regulator. The 405 drop in sees high voltage .05% of the time. Years of reliable motoring!!
     
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