2007 Mustang GT Turbo Build

[raredesign]

Thanks to some helpful guys on the Facebook S197 Forum group, I got the VCT solenoid removal covers.

Here are the part numbers:

5C3Z-6N881-AA
5C3Z-6N881-BA

 

[06JET]

How do the covers work? Will it allow you to not have to use the VCT?

 

[raredesign]

How do the covers work? Will it allow you to not have to use the VCT?

Correct. These have oil routing behind them and remove the VCT.


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[raredesign]

A huge thank you to Moroso for such a great deal on these amazing reservoirs and covers. I can’t wait for the steering reservoir and custom valve covers to arrive!

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[raredesign]

I’m a wide guy, so removing the brake booster makes for a very tight fit.

For those who haven’t done it, it’s as easy as:
- disconnecting a wire connector
- removing a plastic cover from a cotter pin and pulling the pin and bolt
- remove 4 nuts
The brake booster comes out easy, but to get to it, I had to remove the front seat and practice a little back-bending.

On the plus side, it gave me an excuse to think about getting the 2017 seats sooner than later.

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[raredesign]

One of our fellow enthusiasts on the s197 Forum Facebook group gave me a good deal on the FRPP throttle body.

I spent a few hours on the buffer wheel and polish after disassembling it, and it looks quite good!

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[raredesign]

A huge thank you to Moroso Performance Products, Inc. for these amazing custom valve covers! Absolutely phenomenal product. No VCT holes, and 10AN ORB PCV spouts!
Now to powder coat these with Prismatic Powders "Very Red".
In case you didn't know, while #Moroso offers the off-the-shelf version, they have a custom shop and will tailor-make your order.

http://www.shopmoroso.com/eb/catalo...r=&pr=&xxprName=&xxprReturn=&searchTerm=68388

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[EBABlacknChrome]

A huge thank you to Moroso Performance Products, Inc. for these amazing custom valve covers! Absolutely phenomenal product. No VCT holes, and 10AN ORB PCV spouts!
Now to powder coat these with Prismatic Powders "Very Red".
In case you didn't know, while #Moroso offers the off-the-shelf version, they have a custom shop and will tailor-make your order.

http://www.shopmoroso.com/eb/catalo...r=&pr=&xxprName=&xxprReturn=&searchTerm=68388

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Those are bad ass!! I have really thought a lot about getting them only because I am not about having what everyone else has. I am sure they will look sweet powder coated. Was going to have a cousin weld a set up in stainless. Alot of work when he and I started planning it out.

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[raredesign]

Those are bad ass!! I have really thought a lot about getting them only because I am not about having what everyone else has. I am sure they will look sweet powder coated. Was going to have a cousin weld a set up in stainless. Alot of work when he and I started planning it out.

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Thank you. I had originally looked into modifying the stock covers, but multiple welders told me they were unsure how it would react since it is pot metal, and after considering welding on a bung with possible trouble, closing off the VCT solenoid hole, and powder coating it, I would still have a glorified stock cover.
These Moroso covers are perfect and I highly recommend them even if it requires saving up a bit.


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[RocketcarX]

What did those amazing valve covers run you?

 

[raredesign]

What did those amazing valve covers run you?

I have great news. I spoke with them today and the custom department has been informed of the interest in building what I posted above and they have decided to do it for only $800! Seriously. You can call direct and order now.
203-453-6571


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[raredesign]

A huge thank you to Holley Performance Products for setting me up with this amazing RM-8080 steel bell housing! Absolutely more peace of mind!

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[bujeezus]

Sub'd

 

[ha1234]

looks awesome! Going to be an amazing build!

 

[raredesign]

looks awesome! Going to be an amazing build!

Thanks, I hoped to be further but it’s been a bitter winter, and I need to prep the bay for painting so that’s my next step. Stay tuned.


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[raredesign]

In case it is not entirely obvious, here are some things I learned that will hopefully help others out.

The control arm ball joint spindle is held by a pinch bolt design. I used a brass hammer to knock it out as it was locked in pretty good. For extra protection, put the nut on the end of the bolt so it doesn’t mushroom.

The easiest way I found to remove them was with a simple ball joint separator I rented from Autozone.

It too was frozen pretty good, even with only 48k miles on the car. I would assume it is more about age and less about use.


When it comes to the K-Member, brace yourself. The two bolts in each of the long ends are no joke. My 1100 ft/lb Air Cat impact driver was stopped dead and I had to use a large break bar. The metal seemed to screech as I removed them. Some have said they reuse the bolts. I absolutely will not. It’s a small investment when you are this far into it. Protect yourself and do it right.

There isn’t much information about removing the antenna so you can remove the quarter panel. The information I did find was ambiguous or incorrect.

Attacking the antenna cover with force is wrong. Simply stick something under the cap from the side or opposite side marked. Do not do the ends. If done correctly it comes off so easy, I can actually do it with my thumbnail.

My last tip of the day is that when removing the front fenders, you may be the “lucky” one with rock hard sealant in the bottom that won’t let go.

It took a chisel and a bunch of hammering which now means I’ll have to weld it up and prime/paint.

I then found two great sets of tools at harbor freight (a little late I know), but the metal set (which I used on the other side) is great for pulling the tree plugs for the side skirts as well as unlatching the hidden clips, and the neon set is a super hard plastic scraper that would have worked perfect.

I’m getting closer to welding up, smoothing, and painting the bay.

I think I am going to go with Ferrari’s Rosso Corsa 322 in solvent based Axalta.

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[raredesign]

I picked up a neat little Ryobi brushless grinder/cut-off tool and Diablo flap style disc. The Evap mount was welded in 3 places, but this made short work of it. It’s perfectly smooth so no weakening of the metal.

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[EBABlacknChrome]

Looking good!!

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[46addict]

Do you have any concerns about the Comp turbo? I searched for reviews or feedback on them online across all platforms, not just for Mustangs, and there isn't much discussion on them. The stuff I did find are negative reviews with people who have had the impeller strike the turbo housing which led to self destruction, and some guys had their turbos fail at the 6k mile mark. Some did not make it past a few hundred miles. Is this an issue of misuse/improper break-in/abuse? Or are they actually fail prone? I am not trying to bash a company or stir emotions, it's an honest question.

If anyone else has any experience with them on a setup that gets driven (8k+ miles per year) I would appreciate your input.

 

[raredesign]

Do you have any concerns about the Comp turbo? I searched for reviews or feedback on them online across all platforms, not just for Mustangs, and there isn't much discussion on them. The stuff I did find are negative reviews with people who have had the impeller strike the turbo housing which led to self destruction, and some guys had their turbos fail at the 6k mile mark. Some did not make it past a few hundred miles. Is this an issue of misuse/improper break-in/abuse? Or are they actually fail prone? I am not trying to bash a company or stir emotions, it's an honest question.

If anyone else has any experience with them on a setup that gets driven (8k+ miles per year) I would appreciate your input.

I am new to them, but always heard of Comp Turbos as great quality, but from what I understand, the first version of the oil-less turbos caused issues when people ran them in the bay like a typical setup. They did not have a zerk fitting to grease in intervals yourself rather than send out for service, and the extra heat in the bay shortened the life of the grease which I am sure some accidentally neglected and burned up.

The revised version has a zerk fitting and my kit is from S&H Performance which places the turbo under the car, above the k-member. Keeping up on the grease, plus not having heat soak is certainly a plus. I’m sure JeremyH can shed more light on this, but to my understanding, people love them.

Also consider how many times people only start threads online when they have a problem. I’m sure there are many more success stories that have never been talked about, as unfortunate as that is.


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