2007 Mustang GT Turbo Build

[raredesign]

The rear power stop performance calipers are an excellent value purchase. It’s a new OEM caliper that has simply been epoxy painted, but worked perfectly and looks great.

The front uses 4 piston brembo clones, which were only around $50 each, so as I mentioned earlier, I painted them with G2 epoxy and finished with a 3M heat resistant vinyl sticker.

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[raredesign]

I decided to sell the FRPP (black lung) intake, and went with the Holley Sniper Gen 2.
The vacuum ports are on the bottom, and it comes with various fittings, but I needed some more 1/4”, which I purchased from Amazon.

The worm gears were a bit harsh on the silicone lines, so rather than look and wait for another option, I wrapped the ends in electrical tape, which worked quite well!

MMR sells a very nice oil filter relocation kit, which I mounted under the driver’s side headlight.
NOTE: be sure to connect Out to In and In to Out!

With the silicone lines sleeved in Techflex with heat shrink on the ends, it cleans up nicely.

I used an anodized aluminum T fitting with scaled adapters to serve both the brake booster and the fuel rail pressure sensor.

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[raredesign]

I did an HID retrofit using the Raxiom DRL housings, thanks to Alexandru Bauer, who was an enormous help.

Afterward, I found that the Spyder DRL available on CarID for less are the same thing, and are the parent manufacturer of the white labeled Raxiom brand.

In order to fit the new projector, the mount needs to be trimmed carefully, as it’s easy to make it too large, or break it.

The process is a bit involved, but certainly worth it. I included screenshots of my orders for your convenience.

I did need to get a different seal grommet for it to properly fit, as it needs to accommodate a right-angle HID igniter.

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[raredesign]

Since I went with a water-cooled turbo, I needed to tap into the water system, but did not want to do it in the normal location, as it would have been out the water tunnel (driver side) and cross over to the hot side (passenger side) of the radiator, and just wouldn’t be as clean as I like.

I decided to make a -20 AN run from the water tunnel, routed down m the fan where a T fitting would allow the turbo to be tapped in, and then continue the run back up at an angle against the fan to the hit side inlet of the radiator.

The great thing about fluid in thermodynamics is that entropy refers to energy potential and influence in a gradient of exchange. This means that prior to the exchange, in a closed pressurized system, it does not matter where the hose is positioned on its route… up down, in a loop, and so on, as long as it’s destination has the hot-side up, and cold side down as is appropriate for an exchange. I verified my understanding and diagram shown below with a Delphi patent holder and Popular Mechanics award winner in fluid thermodynamics.

Spoiler alert: it worked perfect.

Aeroflow has a massive inventory of products. I highly recommend that you order their catalog. The AN parts are very high quality, and the only place I could find various fittings. They are based in Australia, so if you can’t find a US distributor with the part stocked, you’ll have to order direct.

This is the T I used for the turbo. A friend of mine drilled and NPT tapped the cap so the turbo line fitting was perfect.

Forget welding your radiator with another bung! The owner of AutoPlumb is genius!!!

https://autoplumb.com/collections/2...products/autoplumb-sb-ford-thermostat-housing

It tucked in rather nicely!

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