2007 Mustang GT Turbo Build

raredesign

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I did not keep up with posts here while finishing the build, so I thought I would try to summarize and catch up.

A lot of time went into reconditioning parts I kept. Proper prep and repaint, as well as stripping bolts and black oxide converting them and/or coating in POR15.
The old zinc hardware that was kept was stripped with citric acid, yes, the kind you buy at a grocery store, and if there was any rust, I soaked them in Evapo Rust. Afterward, I used Black Oxide concentrate to quickly convert the surface, then soaked in WD40 extended rust prevention oil. The shafts and heads of the hanger bolts were coated in POR15.
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raredesign

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Engine bay looks great! Did you smooth and Bondo the spot welds on the aprons? It looks super clean

Thanks. Yes, back in post #44 I have some photos. I used 3M Platinum and Evercoat Glaze which are polyester fillers.


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raredesign

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13-14 GT500 clutch master cylinder upgrade, Mishimoto radiator, and prepping the valve cover for install. The dowels are installed by machine, and the holes did not measure the same, so a little cleaning up was needed. This part is DR3V-7A543-AA, but the OEM has now changed it to DR3Z-7A543-A.
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raredesign

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raredesign

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BMR all the things!
Well made parts that are stronger, save weight, and look great!

Also seen here are BMR GT500 springs on Strange struts.
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raredesign

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Save a bunch of money on #Brembo calipers by purchasing the factory GT500 remans/clones
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from a number of retailers. These were purchased through NAPA under the Eclipse name. G2 brush-on epoxy caliper paint in PR4.
 

raredesign

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Mistakes do happen and parts need to be repaired.
I had made a mistake or two when spraying, and either grease or solvent in the strut tower bolt holes had blown up and out onto the top when spraying under the tower. That, combined with 4 coats of clear made for a horrifying day as I torqued the nuts down and watched the paint twist, crack, and lift. Thankfully the delamination from contamination was limited to the immediate area, as I verified by peeling it back until it reached a rock hard chem-bonded area.
Painting in the winter is no fun in an unfinished garage, so I picked up a cheap infrared lamp on Amazon to do the job.
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raredesign

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Real carbon fiber and leather! Thanks to Mike Pykra for selling me his old wheel. [emoji41][emoji106]
I sent it to a shop in China that appeared to make custom wheels for other US suppliers, and for $350 they did a fantastic job!
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tjm73

of Omicron Persei 8
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Was just thinking about you the other day. Wondering how the project has been going. Looking great!
 

raredesign

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Was just thinking about you the other day. Wondering how the project has been going. Looking great!

Thanks! It's actually running, but I just wanted to update this thread, so I'll be making posts as I am able. Currently working with Lito on tuning.
 

raredesign

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-3AN and -4AN stainless braided teflon lines can handle 12,000 burstable PSI and 3,000 continuous PSI.

Originally, I purchased stainless tubing and fittings, but even with a professional flare tool, the seem on the tube would not smooth properly. I’m glad that happened, because switching entirely to stainless braided teflon and AN fittings was the absolute best move!

Want to do your own? Here are the details!

Lines:
4 lines are -3AN: These are the lines on the ABS unit that face the firewall.
2 lines are -4AN: These are the feed lines to the rear.

Fittings:
6 fittings are -3AN to M10 x 1.0
4 fittings are -3AN to M12 x 1.0
2 fittings are -4AN to M12 x 1.0

2 inner most facing the firewall are -3AN to M10
2 outer facing the firewall are -3AN to M12
2 facing the front of the vehicle are -4AN to M12

Both front caliper feeds under the fender are -3AN to M10

Master Cylinder has 2 fittings that are -4AN to M12

The 2 fittings for the rear feeds (mounted under the fender below the Master Cylinder), are -3AN to M10, but are fed by the -3AN to M12 at the ABS end.

Sources:
90* -3AN swivel
PN: FIT-690903
https://www.racetronix.biz/product.asp?ic=fit-690903

90* -4AN swivel
PN: FIT-690904
https://www.racetronix.biz/product.asp?ic=fit-690904

-3 AN Stainless Braided Teflon Hose
PN: TFT1167-03B
https://www.racetronix.biz/product.asp?ic=tft1167-03b

-4 AN Stainless Braided Teflon Hose
PN: TFT1167-04B
https://www.racetronix.biz/product.asp?ic=tft1167-04b

Earl’s -3AN to M12x1.0
PN: 592053ERL
https://www.summitracing.com/oh/parts/ear-592053erl

Earl’s -4AN to M12x1.0
PN: 592054ERL
https://www.summitracing.com/oh/parts/ear-592054erl

Earl’s -3AN to M10x1.0
PN: 592032ERL
https://www.summitracing.com/oh/parts/ear-592032erl/
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raredesign

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FatHouse Fabrications #FatFab racing oil catch can is a brilliant design! It fits comfortably in the factory battery location. I’ll relocate the battery to the trunk later.
The bottom dowel would not fit in the stock hole, so I shaved down the dowel rather than drill the hole, since that would cause rust.
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raredesign

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BBK ceramic coated shorty headers will match up nicely with the S&H Performance turbo plumbing.
Thanks to Josh Jernigan for recommending the Stage 8 locking header bolts.
Also seen here is the 2008, 2.97 1st, TR6060.
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raredesign

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METCO pulleys paired with a similarly made March Performance water pump pulley and cover, and a UPR billet tensioner arm.
Thanks Jason Labelle for the great deal on the UPR tensioner. I spent a little time that evening polishing it and it was good as new!
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raredesign

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Look at those stunning custom Moroso valve covers powdered in Pacific Coast Powder Coatings signature triple black!
So cool that my awesome wife, Chantel helped me install the motor!
Also seen here is the Mac’s Pivot and plate that made a huge difference in solid handling...no swinging chains needed.
Originally, their plate only used 4 bolts, but they were receptive to the suggestion and extended the plate for another set of bolts for added support.
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