2008 Stage 3 ROUSH - Rebirth...

skwerl

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Yes. Mine was tied back in to my pcv lines. Justin disconnected it and put a rubber plug in the end of the line. Now it just lays on top of the bell housing with all the other wires and hoses back there. But I don't have an oil issue so disconnecting it won't hurt anything. You have oil coming into your intake from somewhere and disconnecting that line will only hide it until the intake fills up and it splashes into a couple cylinders due to cornering or hard braking. Then your motor could hydrolock and go boom. As long as it's getting sucked back into the intake it's being vaporized enough to get burned without puddling up.
 

AutoXRacer

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Why did Justin decide to disable that bubbler hose? Is there a performance improvement getting rid of it?

Hopefully, with new heads and possible rehone/rebuild, I won't have oil issues anymore. sigh
 

BruceH

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The fact that it's pulling oil out of your intake is enough reason to leave it alone until you fix the issue. I stuck a plug in the end of the line and left it laying behind the engine but if you do that now you could have oil puddling in your intake. Once it gets full enough to suck into the cylinders you could hydrolock the engine.

Is it pulling oil out or is it letting a pressurized crankcase blow oil into the intake? I'm guessing that the line doesn't have a pcv on it.

This could be your whole problem Gerald. Where does the line hook up to on the motor?
 

skwerl

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It's not pulling from the motor, it's pulling from the bottom of the intake. Its only purpose is to eliminate/disperse any puddle that might develop in the intake to prevent it from hydrolocking the engine. It pulls from the bottom of the intake and puts it back in the blower intake elbow so it can be vaporized and run through the engine.
 

lito

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The bubbler is common in the roush SC's, not on other platforms, it has no valve of any kind, is just sucks oil from the bottom of intake and recirculates it giving more chances of it being vaporized and burned, is in a way an small boost leak as it always connect MAP with SIP that is always at vacuum, SIP vac is usually higher than MAP so it would be always sucking, it helps a little with pressure transitions in manifold, leaks is small tough, not much boost is gained by its removal. If at any time the PCV was closed is normal to have oil running around.
 

AutoXRacer

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Do you think this is normal Lito...?
Seems like an aweful lot of oil. Where is it coming from (in a normal engine)?
As mine is obviously leaking from the heads/valves; pending confirmation (lol).
 

AutoXRacer

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Anyone know the best way to cut PTFE hose (Stainless Steel Braided)?

I have a ton of fittings, rails, fuel filter, etc from Fore...will be looking for advice on how all this stuff gets assembled (hose connections). lol
 

skwerl

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Do you have an angle grinder? Use a metal cutoff blade. Or a Dremel with a cutoff blade if you don't have an angle grinder.
 

AutoXRacer

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Thanks guys, although, Fore Innovations suggested not using the band saw/cut-off wheel due to the dust/debris. They suggested a fine tooth saw...

But reading the thread above, doesn't seem like that works very well.
 

skwerl

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You just have to clean it well after cutting it. If you have a can of carb cleaner and an air compressor, I can't see the issue of dust being a problem.
 

AutoXRacer

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Cool, thanks!!! Almost got the motor out. Leaving it for tomorrow. Everything is disconnected...all that's left is to strap the motor, unbolt the two motor mount bolts and lift it out...

I think I will have to remove the hood...
 

skwerl

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Are you pulling it with the blower attached? If so, you might need the clearance. I pulled mine without removing the hood and had plenty of room by removing the intake first and hooking the motor as low as I could.
 

AutoXRacer

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Yeah, I'm pulling it whole... I'd rather disassemble it on the bench just to have a better view as I'm taking it apart.
 

jcw427

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With the fuel system I've always got it all put together up to the motor then run like 4-5 liters of just regular pump gas through it then swap the filter before I start running the car. It's a waste of a little fuel but it's cheap insurance to be sure there is no debris in the system. I'd also consider steaming the tank when I'm swapping the system.
 

skwerl

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I think the ethanol in our gas keeps the fuel tank pretty clean compared to years past. I just pulled my fuel pump last month and my 5 year old tank was spotless inside. I'd skip cleaning the tank unless you actually dumped contaminants in it.
 

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