2008 Stage 3 ROUSH - Rebirth...

[PLee]

Give Jason at DOB a shout about the alternator project he's working on... OEM 200a alternator that a few people are already using, and it's completely bad ass. Will have mine up and running very shortly as well.

BTW- hell of a build!!!! You're bound to have some things to iron out after having replaced so much... but, don't let that frustrate you, just keep at it!

I may have some good news regarding another option for upgraded alternator!!!

I ordered a set of coils from Performance Distributors which are known for their DUI systems. Anyway, I contacted them and they said they can custom build a 240 amp alternator for our cars!! 120 amps at idle!!!

I am still investigating if this will be a bolt-on affair or if its a custom fab setup.
Pricing would be around $500 though...

Here is their current offerings:
http://www.performancedistributors.com/alternators-mramp.htm

If its more reliable and stable than the PA Performance, it may be worth it!!!

More to come!!

Does anyone know what is the minimum voltage our car need to perform nominally?
Right now, at full load, my voltage drops to 13.5 or so...thats reading at the battery which the voltage is slightly higher at the alternator output; typically 0.5 volts difference.

 

[AutoXRacer]

Give Jason at DOB a shout about the alternator project he's working on... OEM 200a alternator that a few people are already using, and it's completely bad ass. Will have mine up and running very shortly as well.

BTW- hell of a build!!!! You're bound to have some things to iron out after having replaced so much... but, don't let that frustrate you, just keep at it!

Really? There is an alternative to PA?

Currently, I've been working with a supplier/manufacturer to make me a new alternator. Here is what they offered:

Painted case; no charge.
Powder-coating, that would be a $99.00 charge.
In your case, I would recommend our 6 phase 170 amp unit, because we can run a larger diameter pulley on it to keep the alternator speed down, while still maintaining excellent output at idle. It is a 6 phase unit with twin rectifiers, which will keep it from heat soaking as bad as the stock Ford unit. It will dramatically outperform your current 135 amp large case unit, ESPECIALLY at actual operating temp. Our unit will have the same bolt pattern, (we can mill off the upper ears) but will be slightly smaller in physical size.

For the guys with ROUSH setups, a smaller case would be ideal!!!

I will have to contact DOB about his alternator. Thanks!!

 

[AutoXRacer]

Does anyone know how many bearings are in the rear axle?

Is it:
-Two in the pinion
-Two in the carrier/pumpkin
-Two in the axle housing at the ends where the seals go?

Are there any more?

 

[skwerl]

Does anyone know who many bearings are in the rear axle?

Is it:
-Two in the pinion
-Two in the carrier/pumpkin
-Two in the axle housing at the ends where the seals go?

Are there any more?

Sounds right, but don't quote me as I've never dealt with them personally.

I did want to ask you about the radiator support though. I recall you had the sway bar mount snap off a couple months ago and you were sending it back to Kelly at BMR for further investigation. What did they find out and how was this resolved?

 

[AutoXRacer]

Sounds right, but don't quote me as I've never dealt with them personally.

I did want to ask you about the radiator support though. I recall you had the sway bar mount snap off a couple months ago and you were sending it back to Kelly at BMR for further investigation. What did they find out and how was this resolved?

I have not heard any updates yet. Last I heard there was a big meeting with engineering, shop, etc. They were going to discuss the failure and whether a redesign is needed. They talked about adding gussets to strengthen the area. But don't quote me on this... lol

BMR sent me another support and told me to try to break it again... lol
So far so good. I think it may have been a one off bad part.
I will be tracking the car on Thursday though, so lets wait till then... lol

 

[AutoXRacer]

Build update:

Still having issues with front sway bar end links. The Shelby race links I bought and installed, one of them is clunking. Sigh
So I ordered a set of 2011-2013 end links. They have been redesigned since the 2005-2009 versions.

So I will give those a try... Hopefully my front end clunk will finally be resolved.

I got the new OEM (updated version) end links installed...so far so good.
I will give it a few days though.

The new redesigned end links are so much nicer!!

2008 end link vs 2011-present end link:

New beefier bolts on the 2011-present end links...damn they were $6 a pop. sigh

End differences

The new ones are so light too. Lighter than the 2008 versions and lighter than the Shelby Race ones.

Hopefully the clunking is resolved!!

 

[AutoXRacer]

I took the car out to a track day on Thurs....what a blast!!!!
I never had as much fun on a track in FL!!! The elevation changes are awesome!!! lol

OK, I'll post up some pics and videos about that later.

My clunking came back and I think I finally know whats going on.

I noticed some scrape marks on the sway bar right above the tie rod/steering shaft.
I think some how due to my new lowering springs, the sway bar is coming in contact with the steering shaft. Strange, because I have never heard of this happening before. I will have to load the suspension and see how much clearance I have. This is very strange.

Driver side

Passenger side

If this is the case, then I do need adjustable end links and need to make them shorter than OEM length.

 

[fivelinkcobra]

I think Vorshlog has a shorter end links available.

Jim

 

[AutoXRacer]

Oh another issue I had/have is that my rear axle spewed oil everywhere!!!
Looks like a quart of oil blew up underneath the car...oil even came out of the passenger side axle seal. sigh

So another mod to the list is a rear axle breather/overflow catch can.
Has anyone installed one of these yet?

Obviously it would be the road racing crowd.
Its never happened before. I wonder if its because the shop that swapped my gears used thin (standard) oil. I have always used Red Line Shock Proof oil which is a lot thicker and stickier.... Hmm...

 

[skwerl]

I replaced mine with the Ford 'turkey baster' style vent breather. Got it from Tousley for about $30 I think. Hasn't leaked a drop since.
I did use Lucas oil in the rear end after installing the TrueTrac. My mechanic said it is the thickest gear lube he's ever seen.

 

[AutoXRacer]

Interesting... Look what I found (see PDF below)!!

This must be the turkey baster Brian must be talking about.
Not sure if this would help my situation as I spilled a lot!!

I found out from a road racer that the track I was on is notorious for making rear axles spew oil due to all the elevation changes.

He said to get this:
http://shop.bobsautosports.com/Mustang-axle-reservoir-KR-style-axle-reservoir.htm

Seems like Ford included this in the GT500 KR model.
Expanded fluid routes to the tank, then drains back to the axle when cool.

I think I am going to order this...
I wish I could get by with just the turkey baster...but reading online from Boss 302 track racers and such say it doesn't work.

Since this state does not have a single flat road...road course that is...I guess I better get the KR tank.

 

[AutoXRacer]

I pulled my plugs last night out of Bank 1...not a pretty sight (post #96):

http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=103481&page=5

Passenger side PCV dumped oil in the intake tract (air hose, throttle body, and elbow); this is not an issue as I am going to a breather catch can setup.

I think I've got serious trouble...

I think I should have gotten a crate motor from Ford...

 

[skwerl]

Damn, Gerald. Have you talked to JDM about it yet?

 

[AutoXRacer]

Damn, Gerald. Have you talked to JDM about it yet?

I sent them the pics... They want me to do a compression and leak down test.

 

[BruceH]

I pulled my plugs last night out of Bank 1...not a pretty sight (post #96):

http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=103481&page=5

Passenger side PCV dumped oil in the intake tract (air hose, throttle body, and elbow); this is not an issue as I am going to a breather catch can setup.

I think I've got serious trouble...

I think I should have gotten a crate motor from Ford...

Gerald, the passenger side should be dry. If the pcv is hooked up properly air should enter through the passenger side and exit out of the driver side.

I'm betting that your driver side pcv is stuck closed and it's screwing everything up. It would be fairly easy to check if you don't mind huffing crankcase odors.

How is the driver side pcv hooked into the blower? It should be going into the the inlet just before the compressor so there is a constant vacuum on it.

 

[AutoXRacer]

Gerald, the passenger side should be dry. If the pcv is hooked up properly air should enter through the passenger side and exit out of the driver side.

I'm betting that your driver side pcv is stuck closed and it's screwing everything up. It would be fairly easy to check if you don't mind huffing crankcase odors.

How is the driver side pcv hooked into the blower? It should be going into the the inlet just before the compressor so there is a constant vacuum on it.

I just eliminated the PCV system. Ran the engine and at idle, the passenger side blows air. A lot more than the driver's side.

I plugged the passenger side port and the driver's side then blows more...so its working. I also blew into it (while engine was off) and it does block.

The surprising thing to me is that the passenger side valve port blows more air than the driver's side. Hmm...??

The way the PCV system was installed, per ROUSH design is the driver's side PCV port routes to the supercharger elbow which is behind (downstream) the throttle body; so constant vacuum.

The passenger side routes to the air tube/hose and connects to a port right behind (downstream) the MAF housing; this would also be subjected to constant vacuum as air is being pulled into the air filter at idle and especially during any throttle inputs.

 

[AutoXRacer]

In an attempt to mitigate my oil consumption issue. I have decided to eliminate my PCV system. With the PCV system, I am getting tons of oil in my intake. I collected 1 oz of oil from 5x20 min track sessions. Who knows how much more out of the passenger side. BTW, the passenger side flows more than the driver's side.

So here is my new breather setup. I could not use the Stef's can I bought due to limited real-estate. So I used my old Jaz breather catch cans.

Passenger side:
I use the OEM connectors with 3/8" emissions hose routed to the fender.

Then I mounted the breather catch can right next to the windshield washer fluid tank.

On the driver's side, I did the same, OEM connector with 1/2" emission hose routed around the air box then into the fender.

Hose goes around the supercharger coolant pump to the catch can.

Both catch cans are mounted in the exact same spot.

Let's see how well this works.

I think I will have to extend the neck where the filter clamps on to.
Forward of the fliter is an opening in the bumper... I am not sure if the rushing air onto the filter is a good idea. Could this potentially create back pressure on the catch can? Or am I over analyzing it?

I think I will have to extend it anyway due to when the rainy season comes in. I am afraid rain might get the filter wet and who knows then...

 

[AutoXRacer]

Update!!

Well, you know those SOS coils I bought and wanted to try...?



EPIC FAIL

I tried to WOT it last night...at 4,500 RPM spark blowout/misfire!!!

Tried it a few times...

So this morning I re-installed the OEM FRPPs and all is back to normal. Nice clean pull all the way to 7,000 RPM.

Sigh...

Wondering if MSD is any better...???

 

[skwerl]

Wondering if MSD is any better...???

I highly doubt it.

 

[BruceH]

I'm having deja vu all over again, lol.