He just told you it is unlikely he will tear down at his expense.
326 Startup.... Bad Knock...
- Thread starter Dark_horse
- Start date
He just told you it is unlikely he will tear down at his expense.
crownaviation
http://www.tudyno.com/
Well, there are quite a few guys on here with similar if not the same "racecar motor 2618 pistions" that are not nearly that damn loud. I have never heard one that loud before. Have heard a few with a little annoying knock but DAMN! If it was not such and expensive build I would say screw it and hammer down.. but we are not just talking several hundred dollars.. several thousand here
This acceptable answer to you?
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crownaviation
http://www.tudyno.com/
Just as long as it does not FAIL at the OP's expense..
Race engine....
crownaviation
http://www.tudyno.com/
Yeah that was crafty.. And I go to the track quite a bit. Don't hear any other "race" engines making noise like that either. Must be a "special race engine"
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UltraKla$$ic
PERENNIAL WAXXER
LOL.........I'd text the builder and ask him if I run it and it blows, where does he want me to park it at his shop so he can rebuild it on his own dime this time. That'll get his attention. LOL
You're alot more patient than I am Bobby. A car sounding that mean, and as frustrated as I would be at this point my foot woulda been through the floor board already! Make it or break it!!
You're alot more patient than I am Bobby. A car sounding that mean, and as frustrated as I would be at this point my foot woulda been through the floor board already! Make it or break it!!
Dark_horse
forum member
This has been the longest 7 months of my life... im drained in all accounts lol
05stroker
Never enough power guy!
if I put a new motor in and it sounded like that I would be taking a back out and taking apart. I have 2618 pistons in mine and it sounds nothing like that!
^^^^a long time ago my first forged motor had Mahle 2618 pistons in it, it sounded similar to that, but like you said, not nearly as loud. My second forged motor had JE pistons in it, which I liked alot better. Now I have Diamond pistons.
BruceH
BBB Big Bore Boss 322
Are you using a thick oil that thins out when warmed up? Like 10w-anything. Not enough flow could caused by too thick of oil could be the problem. When it warms up enough to flow through the motor the top end finally gets oil and the lifters pump up all the way. We are running out of possibilities here.
Dark_horse
forum member
I am onboard with this theory 100% although i dont think its the oil itself... I am using joe gibbs BR30...so what are some things that wouldnt allow the oil to get up top? Vct solenoids? I thoroughly inspected the head gaskets to make sure all the holes lined properly (new head gaskets)
Loosen all your valve cover bolts on one side, start the car, lift the valve cover for a few seconds to see what you got.
With a new engine, not sure what would keep oil from coming up top when you have 70 psi oil pressure.
BruceH
BBB Big Bore Boss 322
BR30 is 5w-30 as you already know so that's not it. Blocked galleys can do it but that isn't going to go away when it's warmed up.
Maybe something on the front cover is loose enough to make noise but tight enough to make good contact once it heats and expands? Something in the valvetrain like phaser bolts or cam caps? You have eliminated all the obvious and not so obvious. Did you ever get the piston to bore clearance? Maybe the builder surfaced the rods for more clearance? The mod motors have a pretty tight side rod clearance when compared to other motors. I could see a builder thinking it needed more.
05stroker
Never enough power guy!
Mine has .030 per pair rod side clearance. I don't think that is it. That is why I don't buy the "race motor" comments. Mine is as " loose" as they come. I do run a .025 to .030 PTB clearance though with a 2618 coated piston.
UltraKla$$ic
PERENNIAL WAXXER
WELL?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?
Dark_horse
forum member
Sorry guys I havnt even touched it... burned the F out on it to tell you the truth.. I have spent all my free time at the farm getting ready for Missouri Bow Season... putting up stands on 1200 acres is a lot of work lol...
On a side note I was going through all my boxes of parts.. just looking for something to blame on myself and I actually found something.
So I failed to put on the spacer that goes on before the ATI super damper.. although I don't thing that's the culprit it is something I missed...
On a side note I was going through all my boxes of parts.. just looking for something to blame on myself and I actually found something.
So I failed to put on the spacer that goes on before the ATI super damper.. although I don't thing that's the culprit it is something I missed...
Possibly the balancer hitting some part of the front cover then? Wouldn't explain why it clears up when the motor warms up though.
RH
RH
UltraKla$$ic
PERENNIAL WAXXER
Noclutch
forum member
With the new lifters you installed and the noise went away for a short time says it might be the oiling of one is limited. Could be something in the feed to that one during assembly, does not have to be much and stuff like that happens, just like getting a bad lifer in a batch of new ones, or a bad cam, or a bad solenoid in a nitrous kit from the same performance group if you have my kind of luck (personal suffering).
You need to get dirty on this one so you can breath again and dream about something better like burning rubber and a screaming woman. (clean or dirty it was your thoughts that conjured the images)
Did you eliminate injector noises by pulling the power from each one?
I am guessing you did.
so,
Find which lifter it is (if it is the source) by pulling off the cover and with the engine cold fire it up and carefully and gradually put pressure on each follower at the point of contact with the lifter until you hear the sound go away (Use a wooden spoon as metal might add clicking) if you quiet the noise with the spoon you found the bad boy. If oil is restricted to one and it is not staying pumped up check that adjusters feed point and with a soft wire in the hole for a restriction in the head. Soak and pump the lifter back up by it's self. Don't do more than that one or you might add to the confusion and try it again with the cover off and see that helped. If it clatters again check with the spoon to see if it quiets it again. If the noise comes back then swap it with another cylinder's lifter and see if the noise moved with the lifter. If the same cylinder starts to clatter again you have found the spot of the problem. If the same lifter makes the noise again on the other cylinder then you found a bad lifter. Swap out that lifter with your old one and give it another go.
If the noise does not go away when you put pressure on each one the first time then there is another issue:
Need to put it under a load. Get it through a drive cycle while warmed up. If it makes that noise under a load at the same rpms as it did without a load cold and if it goes away lifting, the valve-train might not be your problem.
Everyone can talk about that later.....if you want.
Stop guessing and driving yourself into a point of frustration and alienating a engine builder whom you might need later to fix a problem that might be bigger. You can find this problem and fix it.....after hunting because you need to let off some steam before you go back to this problem.
If you tried all this already then ignore this post as the ramblings of a loon!
Good luck.
You need to get dirty on this one so you can breath again and dream about something better like burning rubber and a screaming woman. (clean or dirty it was your thoughts that conjured the images)
Did you eliminate injector noises by pulling the power from each one?
I am guessing you did.
so,
Find which lifter it is (if it is the source) by pulling off the cover and with the engine cold fire it up and carefully and gradually put pressure on each follower at the point of contact with the lifter until you hear the sound go away (Use a wooden spoon as metal might add clicking) if you quiet the noise with the spoon you found the bad boy. If oil is restricted to one and it is not staying pumped up check that adjusters feed point and with a soft wire in the hole for a restriction in the head. Soak and pump the lifter back up by it's self. Don't do more than that one or you might add to the confusion and try it again with the cover off and see that helped. If it clatters again check with the spoon to see if it quiets it again. If the noise comes back then swap it with another cylinder's lifter and see if the noise moved with the lifter. If the same cylinder starts to clatter again you have found the spot of the problem. If the same lifter makes the noise again on the other cylinder then you found a bad lifter. Swap out that lifter with your old one and give it another go.
If the noise does not go away when you put pressure on each one the first time then there is another issue:
Need to put it under a load. Get it through a drive cycle while warmed up. If it makes that noise under a load at the same rpms as it did without a load cold and if it goes away lifting, the valve-train might not be your problem.
Everyone can talk about that later.....if you want.
Stop guessing and driving yourself into a point of frustration and alienating a engine builder whom you might need later to fix a problem that might be bigger. You can find this problem and fix it.....after hunting because you need to let off some steam before you go back to this problem.
If you tried all this already then ignore this post as the ramblings of a loon!
Good luck.
Dark_horse
forum member
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