4.6L 3V Build

TexStang

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Connecting rods have been clearanced to allow .013" to .014" side clearance using a Millport Model 618 horizontal surface grinder with magnetic base.
100_0934.jpg

This machine may look outdated but here is an example of the finished product:
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so thats what thats used for! We have one on the machine shop on campus that I work at, but I have never used it and always wondered how well they would work
 

US-1

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I will make a concentrated effort to make sure all "feet images" have been removed or photoshopped out of all future pictures

Just shows you're from Florida. I don't take pictures when I'm building one. Too many beer cans on the floor.


:roflmao:
 

Boozshey

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The feet picture make'em classic, I wouldn't worry about it, it's just fun to tease.
 

NastyStang113

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Just shows you're from Florida. I don't take pictures when I'm building one. Too many beer cans on the floor.


:roflmao:

Easy, Easy!! I can't tell you how many times I tell myself I'm going to take pictures and than I start working and never stop for pictures. :roflmao:
 

tmcolegr

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All new timing components will be used on this build. Part numbers are as follows:

(1) F1AZ-6B316-AA Key (Crankshaft Gear)
(1) XL3Z-6306-AA Gear - Crankshaft
(2) 5W7Z-6268-AA Chain - Timing
(1) 4R3Z-6B274-BA Chain Guide - LH
(1) 4R3Z-6M256-CC Chain Guide - RH
(1) 1L2Z-6L253-AA Tensioner Arm - LH
(1) 1L2Z-6L253-BA Tensioner Arm - RH
(1) F6AZ-6L266-DA Tensioner - RH (2 Valve Steel Bodied)*
(1) F6AZ-6L266-CA Tensioner - LH (2 Valve Steel Bodied)*
or
*1L3Z-6L266-AA Tensioner - RH (3 Valve Plastic Bodied)
*XL1Z-6L266-AA Tensioner - LH (3 Valve Plastic Bodied)
100_1015.jpg

This would probably be the right time to show the differences between the 2V steel bodied tensioners and the 3V plastic bodied tensioners. There have been reports of the 3V plastic bodied tensioners failing. Every one that I have heard of failing is the result of a seal failure. The 2V steel bodied tensioners do not use any type of seal or gasket as they mount directly to the head.

Note: I spoke to several reputable engine builders and some are adamant about using only 2V steel bodied tensioners while others do not recommend upgrading. However even those that didn't recommend upgrading admitted that the steel bodied tensioners would not hurt anything, they just didn't see the need to upgrade. I have chosen to use 2V steel bodied tensioners. If you choose to purchase the 2V steel bodied tensioners be prepared to pay about 70% more.

Here are some pictures showing the differences between the 2 types of tensioners:

RH Tensioner
100_1016.jpg

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LH Tensioner
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100_1019.jpg
 
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Boozshey

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Stupid question... So the new tensioner you'll just use a gasket maker (RTV) to seal it?
 

one eyed willy

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Stupid question... So the new tensioner you'll just use a gasket maker (RTV) to seal it?


older ones work of a racheting system, so when they expand they stay expanded.....im not sure what you have to do to compress them once they expand.im not real sure if they use RTV?

newer ones work off of pressure, they have a built in check valve as well,so the oil does not drain back......so if that seal breaks, they dont get 100% pressure to keep them pumped up.
 

US-1

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No RTV. They bolt directly to the cylinder heads. Might want to run a flat file over them to make sure there are no high spots.
 

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