AC Recharge after engine swap

[Juice]

Insurance pays 1.4 labor hours for evac/recharge + refrigerant. ($25-50) so I aould say $200 or less.

 

[1950StangJump$]

OK, sifting through all of this, I think I am reading the following:

1. Replace Accumulator
2. Vacuum on the line for 30-60 minutes to remove moisture from the rest of the system and check for leaks
3. Straight R134 with no sealant

So, with a new accumulator and condenser, but the original compressor and lines, how will I know how much oil to use?

 

[Juice]

OK, sifting through all of this, I think I am reading the following:

1. Replace Accumulator
2. Vacuum on the line for 30-60 minutes to remove moisture from the rest of the system and check for leaks
3. Straight R134 with no sealant

So, with a new accumulator and condenser, but the original compressor and lines, how will I know how much oil to use?

You wouldn't know how much oil to use. So, if it was purged slowly (no oil loss) you probably are ok without any oil.
But you can always let the old parts drain over night and see how much comes out.
Or just add a very small amount, maybe 2 oz. I just replaced a leaking accumulator in wife's car. Did not add any oil, even though i lost a little.

If it was purged fast, by totally removing the shrader valve, put in one can of oil.
https://www.amazon.com/FJC-9144-PAG...&keywords=134a+with+oil&qid=1598625650&sr=8-4

 

[1950StangJump$]

It was purged slowly via the schrader.

Oil levels not affected by my mistake of leaving the lines unplugged for so long?

I would think with a new drier AND accumulator, I should add at least a bit of oil?

 

[JEWC_Motorsports]

Amazon has the vacuum and gauges, cheap. I have been using them for several years without a problem. They are good tools to have around. These are what i have.

https://www.amazon.com/ZENY-Single-...um+Pumps&qid=1598626004&sr=8-5&ts_id=15707041

https://www.amazon.com/diagnóstico-...Air+Conditioning+gauges&qid=1598626100&sr=8-7

 

[JEWC_Motorsports]

It was purged slowly via the schrader.

Oil levels not affected by my mistake of leaving the lines unplugged for so long?

I would think with a new drier AND accumulator, I should add at least a bit of oil?

https://www.amazon.com/FJC-2487-PAG-Oil-Viscosity/dp/B000OCIUKQ put half the bottle and you should be okay.

 

[Juice]

No, oil is not affected by leaving the system open. Let me tell you a.story:

So when I did my coyote swap, I had to disconnect ac obviously.
I capped the high and.low pressure lines. Was using the compressor that came with the 5.0 and.bougbt a condenser for a 2013. When I went to hook everything up, (car was under construction for several months) I got a little "psst" out of the line when I removed my caps. This was residual refrigerant that was absorbed by the oil in the system. So I was sure my dryer was fine.

 

[1950StangJump$]

Okay, but as JEWC said, tossing a few ozs of oil in, even if no absolutely necessary, won't hurt?

And whats the overall capacity so I know how much 134A to buy . . .

 

[Juice]

No, wont hurt.
2 cans/lbs

 

[JEWC_Motorsports]

Most cars today take 2 lbs. Its a pita to do it the scale method. Thats why its best to use gauges. Here is a good chart to reference.
https://carcody.com/r134a-low-side-pressure-chart/

 

[Juice]

The cheater method to full charge:

Start adding 134a. Aboult half the can will go in the system.
Start engine, ac on fresh air, max blower.
Keep adding refrigerant. When you feel the hose going into the dryer (from the ecaporator) you are done. Its that simple.

I dont care what the gauges read unless the ac isnt getting cold or the compressor doesnt come on.

 

[RavenGT]

Okay, but as JEWC said, tossing a few ozs of oil in, even if no absolutely necessary, won't hurt?

And whats the overall capacity so I know how much 134A to buy . . .

21 oz (1.32 lbs, .60kg). And don't use the oil charge listed above. Use PAG 46 oil. Going by the description of what you did, one to two ounces will suffice.

 

[JEWC_Motorsports]

21 oz (1.32 lbs, .60kg). And don't use the oil charge listed above. Use PAG 46 oil. Going by the description of what you did, one to two ounces will suffice.

PAG100 is the most commonly used in ac repair today, at least in my area.

 

[RavenGT]

PAG 100 is a medium viscosity oil. Would work fine as well as the lighter 46. I was referring to the 150 listed above your post.

 

[JEWC_Motorsports]

Cheers......yeah 150 will trash the compressor.

 

[1950StangJump$]

You guys rock. I'll order the stuff and let you know how it goes

 

[Dougmore]

I went through this many years ago with a '91 Suburban. To make a long story short, after trying to get a shop to stand behind their work, I finally bought books and equipment and learned to do it myself. AC work isn't terribly complicated, but it's easy to get wrong. I still need to buy a good scale. I've tried using a postal scale, but it just isn't as good as a good refrigerant scale. I have 2 30-lb tanks of R-134 purchased at Sam's Club. Hopefully it's a lifetime supply.

It's ALWAYS best to charge by weight if the system is empty and the system is stock. The charge volume should be on a tag somewhere under the hood or you can look it up.

You must replace the drier.

If you charge with gauges, you must charge by the high side pressure. The gauges on the cans only measure low side. You should charge by weight using a good scale. Charging by pressure is highly dependent on ambient temperature and airflow across the condenser.

You could flush the system, but parallel-flow evaporators and condensers don't flush well.

Since you're changing the condenser, you should add a little of the right kind of oil. The earlier suggestion of 2 oz sounds pretty good.

I'd go pay someone to evac and charge unless you're going to invest in equipment and learning how the system works.

 

[Macman45]

Is it true these cars use a drier "line" rather than a drier canister? Trying to figure out what I need to replace now that the system is completely apart.

 

[RavenGT]

The receiver/drier is a canister

 

[Juice]

Dryer is the can by the master cylinder.