All Motor Chat - High Gearing, Light weight, Revin to the moon-

[nv4gt ws]

Thats pretty cool lol I was born in Saint. Agnis Hospital off of 287 so pretty much 23 years, I used to live off of Mamaroneck Ave. in an apartment complex than I moved to Valhalla/White Plains when I was 13 I believe. Where were you from?


I was also born in St. Agnis Hospital and lived in Fulton Park near the County Center. I went to school at Holy Name of Jesus in Valhalla. My dad grew up in Valhalla on Jefferson Ave.

 

[ford20]

I know that the Comp 127600 Cams say they need Ported heads but what would happen if I ran stock heads and than got a set of ported heads?

 

[Kadorja]

Damn with just bolt ons? Im thinking about going full bolt ons with maybe a 75 shot of nitrous and cams (maybe) I'm just testing the waters, my car is daily driven and like i said bone stock. I really just want a little bit of power to play with when im out here cruising. I'm not really looking into going all out.

The only thing I've really noticed is that if you wanna go N/A you really have to rev these engines up pretty high. The rev limiter is set pretty low from the factory... I have FRPP Hot Rod cams which have a higher lift than stock and my rev limiter is set at 6800 and I regularly tap it.... as seen here.

The downside is usually a loss of low end torque. You really have to be over 3k rpm in my car to feel the power (not that the low end torque is lacking by any means) and cars with intakes and other things done really pull at very high RPM.

 

[ford20]

Any ideas?

 

[gil_t2]

I don't know why you would want to do the work twice? Unless you plan on building BIG power I would go with the 127400's or wait till i have the heads.

 

[ford20]

That's a good point but I don't feel like buying two sets of cams lol

I was just thinking that it might be a little easier to do the cams when I have the engine out of my car since I will be doing a V8 swap in the somewhat near future. But I realize that its just as easy with a it in the engine as it is with the engine out of the car. Thanks for the input

 

[JP229]

Just in principle of how motors work more stress = more broken parts.

FI cars add more stress and also have more things that could go wrong = easier to blow up.

NA cars could stay under the same principle if you are reving the piss out of a car RPM's kill motors . . . Let me rephrase that, vibration at higher RPM kills motors.

Usually NA cars are less stressful to the engine than a FI cars. MANY variables come into play but the above is the short answer.

+1

I know that the Comp 127600 Cams say they need Ported heads but what would happen if I ran stock heads and than got a set of ported heads?

That's a good point but I don't feel like buying two sets of cams lol

I was just thinking that it might be a little easier to do the cams when I have the engine out of my car since I will be doing a V8 swap in the somewhat near future. But I realize that its just as easy with a it in the engine as it is with the engine out of the car. Thanks for the input

I'm running the 127600's with stock heads and no head work. They do fine and are streetable. The only thing is, without having heads that flow what these cams need, you lose a lot of low end. I had full bolt ons, cams, FRPP intake and 3.90 gears. Car would scream up top but when u cllick into the next gear the car takes a split second till the RPM's get back up to where the cams come alive. I put 4.56's in the car and it brought my whole set up together. It's an n/a monster and loves the RPM's.

My suggestion to you ford20- If youre going to go n/a, go big. Big stall if youre an auto car or a 4.30-4.56 gear if youre a stick car. I would most definitely go with the 127500 or 600's. SPECIALLY if youre going to get heads or headwork.
Read into this thread and also about weight reduction.. A lot of people really dont understand weight reduction and set up till they start doing it. You dont need 700 horse to get your car to rip off the line and run a badass time. It's just a lot easier that way lol. Since my 12.44 pass, I did the 4.56's, k-member, coil overs and a few other odds and ends and cut some weight -but thats when my 3rd gear went out. I have no doubt it would be a consistant 12.00 car with that occasional 11.9 pass, if not better had my tranny been in good shape.. Plenty of potential in an n/a 3v if you ask me

 

[08StangGT_CS]

Comp Stage 3 XFI NSR, Livernois CNC'ed heads, and Livernois springs going on the 5.0

 

[ford20]

+1




I'm running the 127600's with stock heads and no head work. They do fine and are streetable. The only thing is, without having heads that flow what these cams need, you lose a lot of low end. I had full bolt ons, cams, FRPP intake and 3.90 gears. Car would scream up top but when u cllick into the next gear the car takes a split second till the RPM's get back up to where the cams come alive. I put 4.56's in the car and it brought my whole set up together. It's an n/a monster and loves the RPM's.

My suggestion to you ford20- If youre going to go n/a, go big. Big stall if youre an auto car or a 4.30-4.56 gear if youre a stick car. I would most definitely go with the 127500 or 600's. SPECIALLY if youre going to get heads or headwork.
Read into this thread and also about weight reduction.. A lot of people really dont understand weight reduction and set up till they start doing it. You dont need 700 horse to get your car to rip off the line and run a badass time. It's just a lot easier that way lol. Since my 12.44 pass, I did the 4.56's, k-member, coil overs and a few other odds and ends and cut some weight -but thats when my 3rd gear went out. I have no doubt it would be a consistant 12.00 car with that occasional 11.9 pass, if not better had my tranny been in good shape.. Plenty of potential in an n/a 3v if you ask me

What I was planning on doing was getting the 127600 cams and FRPP Stage 3 Heads ( I know that they may not flow as well as the Livernois but given the recent the recent problems with Livernois I have been reading the FRPP gets the go a head) with 4.30s and the FRPP Intake manifold for the ability to run into the higher RPMs.

As far as weight reduction, when I do my swap I figured I would do a BMR K-Member as well as the Steeda Tubular radiator support rear seat delete and when I take it to the track I would remove the passenger seat as it would still be a street car. I know that there is a lot more ideas and whatnot thrown in towards the beginning of the thread but that is just a start and something I have to look back on later.

When I put on the new heads I would need lifters and lash adjusters but would the stock ones from the old heads work or is there something I need to buy? Also I remember reading that either limiters or lockouts were better for a N/A application but I can't for the life of me find it in here as to which is the better run.

 

[ford20]

Also would a GT500 Oil Pump be suffice?

 

[A John In NJ]

How about an electric water pump. Anyone using one of those ?

 

[ArtQ]

How about an electric water pump. Anyone using one of those ?

Good for quick cool downs but no significant HP value.

 

[Matt D]

Comp Stage 3 XFI NSR, Livernois CNC'ed heads, and Livernois springs going on the 5.0

 

[Matt D]

Also would a GT500 Oil Pump be suffice?

I would rev it to 6800-7000 on a GT500 pump. Melling is the end all for 7000+

 

[ford20]

I would rev it to 6800-7000 on a GT500 pump. Melling is the end all for 7000+

You wouldn't happen to know if it is the 10176 Oil Pump would you?

 

[ford20]

Why is it that the GT500 Pump wouldn't be able to rev past 6800? It can but the effectiveness of it seems to drop off past that point it would seem. Is that because it doesn't have Billet gears while the Melling one does?

If that's the case couldn't you get a GT500 Pump with billet gears? If so where? I saw in a thread that JDM sold them but the only oil pump they had was a High velocity Ford pump but it never said if it had billet gears or not.

 

[rford426]

TSS

 

[ford20]

So the gears on the GT500 oil pump would the weak point as to why it would loose its efficency over 6800 RPM? The TSS gears alone are like 2and change so if I would be able to find a GT500 pump made by someone that would be even better! I mean I have no problems spending the extra money to ensure that the engine is safe but finding everything all in one would be great! I would prefer to keep VCT and run limiters but since the Melling oil pump doesn't have enough psi to run VCT.

 

[BigRis]

Going to stay NA also. JLT CAI, Steeda CMDPs..UDPS, Pypes LTs..H-pipe, MACs axle backs, FRPP 4.10s, DR cams , stall conv and a Brenspeed tune . That will be about all I will do. I hope to have everything done by mid-summer.

 

[Matt D]

So the gears on the GT500 oil pump would the weak point as to why it would loose its efficency over 6800 RPM? The TSS gears alone are like 2and change so if I would be able to find a GT500 pump made by someone that would be even better! I mean I have no problems spending the extra money to ensure that the engine is safe but finding everything all in one would be great! I would prefer to keep VCT and run limiters but since the Melling oil pump doesn't have enough psi to run VCT.

The melling number with the billet gears is #10227.

If you don't want to lock out the Vct TSS is your option. Melling had a video at the Pri show with a stock ford modular .pump and their pump under full load. It's amazing how the stock pump looses so much oil. when I find the video I will post it.