alternator problem, switch to 200amp??

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Hi there,


I had the known camshaft position error caused by the alternator so I replaced it with a PA performance 130 amp when we installed a supercharger.


It hasn't worked a lot (maybe 3 weeks) but it seems that this one is already gone because I'm frequently getting a "check charging system" warning.


When keeping an eye on the voltage with my SCT tuner it confirms what i've been measuring with a multimeter when standing still with running engine. Sometimes it gives 12v and sometimes about 14v.


Is that really the alternator thats broke (internal regulator??) or can that be caused by a bad battery?
Don't think its the battery but I can only ask.


Or is that alternator to weak to provide enough power for the car, including an AFCO HE thats always working when the key is turned together with a high flow FRPP intercooler pump.
 

Wes06

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I'm not sure, I know many alts on these cars die regularly and do weird things.

I have a DOB alternator in the FS section if your interested.
 

07 Boss

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It's usually the diode that goes out on these things. I'm on my fifth one.
 

702GT

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http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=124134

Consider moving to a police interceptor 200A if you're not running an overhead blower. If you are running a PD blower you'll have to pony up for the DOB or a denso unit. The single phase 6g alternators are trash, particularly when installed on a car. Even more so when needed to produce electricity.

Most PD guys at some point throw their hands up and smash the "fuck it" button and go all out on there electrical system. High output alternator, upgraded cables, high quality battery. PD systems with upgrade HE pumps or remote intercoolers with trunk sized ice tank resevoirs and serious fuel pumps will draw some current. When stacked with stereos, lights, and all the normal electronics, there is a need for a more serious charging system, if not a system that will just do its job.
 

AutoXRacer

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I gave up on PA Performance...their alternators are junk.
I went through 3 of them and they could not figure out why my voltages fluctuated...
1000-3500 RPM strong voltage, 3500-4000 RPM dropped to 12V, etc...

I went with a Performance Distributors alternator and haven't had an issue since.
I only changed out my stock alternator because the housing cracked at one of the mounting points; I have an overhead blower.
 

Wes06

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http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=124134

Consider moving to a police interceptor 200A if you're not running an overhead blower. If you are running a PD blower you'll have to pony up for the DOB or a denso unit. The single phase 6g alternators are trash, particularly when installed on a car. Even more so when needed to produce electricity.

Most PD guys at some point throw their hands up and smash the "fuck it" button and go all out on there electrical system. High output alternator, upgraded cables, high quality battery. PD systems with upgrade HE pumps or remote intercoolers with trunk sized ice tank resevoirs and serious fuel pumps will draw some current. When stacked with stereos, lights, and all the normal electronics, there is a need for a more serious charging system, if not a system that will just do its job.

I'm close. My fans and pump with my stereo and air lift. Ugh
Got a DOB alt listed for 190 cause it hilariously doesn't fit the DOB manifold setup. Lol
Once I sell it I'm buying the denso and a new battery
 

BruceH

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I've had a similar issue but the problem was that it wasn't plugged in securely. Once that was taken care of all was well. It's easy enough to check.
 

702GT

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I've had a similar issue but the problem was that it wasn't plugged in securely. Once that was taken care of all was well. It's easy enough to check.

Well with that big bore shakin the harness around, I'm sure this must be a common issue for you lol. You should trade me motors so you don't have to worry about pesky connectors :naughty1:
 

Pentalab

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The 2010 oem Ford alternator (made by denso) is a 3 phase unit. It fits the 05-09 cars. The 05-09 cars all got the inferior single phase alternator. Unless your current requirements are really high (huge loads), the 2010 alternator will provide trouble free operation. The PA performance 130 and 200A alternators are junk, voltages are all over the map.
 
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Tnx guys for the replies.

I have an Edelbrock with 3.25 pully on a Brenspeed B326 stage 3 engine.

Checked the connectors but they are good. Haven't checked the wire going to the battery, will try it this weekend.

Think i'm going to install a new battery as wel just to be sure.

Since brenspeed wil be shipping me a couple of things, I guess i'll just add a pa alternator 200amp from them. Even though you guys aren't to fond of those pa ones they say they haven't got issues so far. But since I'm already paying to ship other things this can just go with the rest.

Me being in europe doesn't make it easy to find one here.

Is it possible to just replace the diode? Maybe silly question but I don't know much about alternators ;)
 

Fullboogie

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You should really consider taking your alternator to a local rebuild shop and having them go through it. MUCH cheaper.
 

Mounty09

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Can anyone else vouch for putting a 2010 alternator on a 2005-2009? I have a pa 130A and the voltages can be all over the place. I am always worrying about it.
 

Pentalab

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Can anyone else vouch for putting a 2010 alternator on a 2005-2009? I have a pa 130A and the voltages can be all over the place. I am always worrying about it.

A Ford oem 2010 alternator will drop right into any 05-09. The PA 130 and PA 200 are a pita, horror stories abound left + right. Voltages all over the map.

The 05-09 oem alternators are single phase types. The 2010 is a 3 phase type. Single phase alternator's went the way of the do-do bird a long time ago, I'm surprised ford even used it.

Philip is wasting his time buying a PA 200A alternator. It will be a dud, along with the 1/2 doz replacements. If the voltage is all over the map, it could also be the internal regulator...as well as int diodes.

AutoXracer went through a bunch of PA alternators. I believe he finally found out they were remanufactured junk out of china. Considering the shipping cost overseas, it's a bad move on Phillips part to even consider a PA unit. You won't hear any good reviews on em.
 

Mounty09

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My PA130 has gotten much worse this weekend. Looks like I need to try the 2010. Anyone have a model number and the cheapest place to buy it? Also can I go with a reman or should I go with Motorcraft?

Thanks for the help

A Ford oem 2010 alternator will drop right into any 05-09. The PA 130 and PA 200 are a pita, horror stories abound left + right. Voltages all over the map.

The 05-09 oem alternators are single phase types. The 2010 is a 3 phase type. Single phase alternator's went the way of the do-do bird a long time ago, I'm surprised ford even used it.

Philip is wasting his time buying a PA 200A alternator. It will be a dud, along with the 1/2 doz replacements. If the voltage is all over the map, it could also be the internal regulator...as well as int diodes.

AutoXracer went through a bunch of PA alternators. I believe he finally found out they were remanufactured junk out of china. Considering the shipping cost overseas, it's a bad move on Phillips part to even consider a PA unit. You won't hear any good reviews on em.
 

Mounty09

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What about using the 2010 alternator from autozone? Any issues there?
 

o2sys

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What about using the 2010 alternator from autozone? Any issues there?


I'm using one, although not from autozone it's a refurbished 2010 denso alternator. Had for just about a year without a single problem.

I had it with a supercharger running dual fuel pumps, 20gpm water pump, dual fans, and some other electronical stuff like stereo, multiple gauges and etc. Worked well then too, even over spinning with the blower.
 

Mounty09

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One more question. If no one knows I will find out tomorrow when I pick up the one I ordered from autozone comes in if I can find my tool. I have a Saleen supercharger where it mounts the alternator out front. I read somewhere on here that the pulley will rub. Is this true or should it still bolt right up with no other issues?
 

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