Best used 4.6L 3V to buy?

[jbpellegrino]

What is the most cost effective 3V to buy to tear down and rebuild? From what I’ve found so far, the Explorer 4.6 is by far the cheapest option when compared to an F150 or Mustang engine. Is this because the Explorer block is aluminum and less sought after? I’m looking to refresh the motor with a Modular Head Shop balanced 5.0 stroker rotating assembly, new timing set, new Melling oil pump with billet gears, FRPP cams, beehive springs, new phasers and rockers, new water pump, and likely a few more things I’ve forgotten.

 

[Samos3]

I think the Mustang is the only one with an aluminum block, all others are iron?

 

[BruceH]

Aluminum block is preferred over the iron. It will hold more hp and is lighter. Stay away from any stroker unless it's using a Ford crank, the power difference is minimal and the stock Ford steel crankshaft is very strong. I've built several 4.6 and Big Bore Boss modular motors and can tell you that the stock oil pump works fine. If thinking about an aftermarket oil pump ask what the oil pressure relief spring is calibrated for, expect a blank look. It's very important that the mod motors get oil to the top end for the cams. More pressure on the bottom end means less flow to the top end. Too much oil pressure means the relief valve opens and nothing gets to the top end. Oil pressure is a measure of resistance, if it's being resisted at the bottom (high pressure) it won't supply the volume needed on the top end.

The valve springs are a pia to change out but it's worth it if they are the right ones. I was able to safely run to 7k rpm with an advanced 127400 cam in n/a and forced induction along with aftermarket moroso springs. If FRPP means Hot Rod cams they work well provided your tuner has the knowledge to adjust the fuel injector settings to correspond to the new intake valve opening degrees. If they give you a blank look when you mention it go somewhere else because all you will get is raw gas out the exhaust with no power increase. I'd suggest Lito for any mod motor tuning.

 

[jbpellegrino]

Lots of super good information, thank you very much. It looks like I’ll be opting for an Explorer motor to rebuild. I wanted to use the stroker rotating assembly because it was the cheapest on their website (nearly $600 cheaper than an all-out 4.6 balanced assy) and was rated for up to 600hp. I don’t plan on going above that, so it seemed suitable for my application. If I were to stray away from that route, would I instead use the stock crankshaft from the new (used) motor and buy forged rods and pistons, new wrist pins, and new rings?

Also, are you saying a Melling pump would push a higher oil pressure with the billet gears? I was under the impression that they were the same part, just different material. I’ve seen some talk about the stock oil pump gears shattering at sustained high rpm.