G0Fast
Junior Member
Here are some tips when installing the BMR Motor Mount Kit with Polyurethane Bushings on a 2012 Mustang GT 5.0L.
1. The stock motor mounts are hard to remove due to the length of the center bolt. I ended up cutting the center bolt flush with the mount with a Dremel in order the get the clearance to remove them.
2. Before raising engine, loosen the two nuts on the transmission cross member. They should be very loose, just hanging on by a few threads. This allows the engine to pivot upwards without straining the bell housing or damaging the transmission mount.
3. If you raise the engine by jacking under the oil pan, use a large floor jack and a 2x4 to spread the load on the pan. Better yet use an engine hoist to raise the engine. Jacking under the oil pan may damage it.
4. To ensure the bolt on the new mount doesn’t fall out when you install it, duct tape it to the bottom of the mount before installing it. Then put the bolt through the engine bracket and hand tighten the washer and nylock nut.
5. There is a large opening underneath the engine mount which you can easily lose sockets or bolts in if you are not careful. Just realize it’s there and don’t drop anything in that area.
6. Some Youtube videos show the engine bracket being loosened in order to remove the stock engine mount. Those brackets are impossible to remove. There is a nut on the passenger side behind the AC compressor which is also a ground. I was unable to remove it. On the driver’s side there is a nut behind the steering shaft that is unaccessible.
7. To remove the stock mounts after you have all the bolts removed, use a long pry bar under the engine bracket to get the last bit of clearance, then remove the stock mount with your free hand.
8. Disconnect the battery ground before working since you will be working around the starter which has a direct connection to the battery.
Those are my tips. Good luck, this is a difficult job even for an experienced mechanic.
1. The stock motor mounts are hard to remove due to the length of the center bolt. I ended up cutting the center bolt flush with the mount with a Dremel in order the get the clearance to remove them.
2. Before raising engine, loosen the two nuts on the transmission cross member. They should be very loose, just hanging on by a few threads. This allows the engine to pivot upwards without straining the bell housing or damaging the transmission mount.
3. If you raise the engine by jacking under the oil pan, use a large floor jack and a 2x4 to spread the load on the pan. Better yet use an engine hoist to raise the engine. Jacking under the oil pan may damage it.
4. To ensure the bolt on the new mount doesn’t fall out when you install it, duct tape it to the bottom of the mount before installing it. Then put the bolt through the engine bracket and hand tighten the washer and nylock nut.
5. There is a large opening underneath the engine mount which you can easily lose sockets or bolts in if you are not careful. Just realize it’s there and don’t drop anything in that area.
6. Some Youtube videos show the engine bracket being loosened in order to remove the stock engine mount. Those brackets are impossible to remove. There is a nut on the passenger side behind the AC compressor which is also a ground. I was unable to remove it. On the driver’s side there is a nut behind the steering shaft that is unaccessible.
7. To remove the stock mounts after you have all the bolts removed, use a long pry bar under the engine bracket to get the last bit of clearance, then remove the stock mount with your free hand.
8. Disconnect the battery ground before working since you will be working around the starter which has a direct connection to the battery.
Those are my tips. Good luck, this is a difficult job even for an experienced mechanic.
