Bolt on power

[OutlawEvans]

well for my drift build I'm at the point where I want to go faster. Whats my best bolt on power options? I'm not looking to go nuts yet, in the future I do see turb or super charging

 

[stkjock]

Tune
Cams
Headers
Gears

 

[zorph01]

Tune
Cams
Headers
Gears

Cams aren't exactly bolt-on, and if he's looking for a shop to do it he will pay more for install then all the other mods combined.

Gears are a good option and if you should probably throw in a Torson diff while you're in there. Also c clip eliminators so your wheels don't go rolling away when you break an axle...

Headers if you can do them yourself, and a tune.

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[JUSTA3V]

Why are cams not considered a bolt on mod? He asked for for best power options. Cams is one of them hands down.

 

[zorph01]

Why are cams not considered a bolt on mod? He asked for for best power options. Cams is one of them hands down.

Because cams do not simply, "bolt on"...

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[stkjock]

Does one use glue?

 

[Wes06]

My supercharger bolted on.
It's bolt on right?
What about my forged rotating assembly.
The rod caps bolt on.

 

[JUSTA3V]

good grief.

 

[46addict]

Make sure whatever you get will be compatible with the forced induction of your choosing. i.e. long tubes with an NA/blower cam won't work well with a turbo and underdrive pulleys will have to come off when installing a blower. Also aftermarket throttle bodies are generally a waste of money and for what it's worth I've had two different tuners tell me BBK TBs are junk.

But yes, if the parts don't require custom fabbing they might as well be bolt ons.

 

[OutlawEvans]

Yeah asking bolt on but if there's any other bang for the buck things then for sure I'll go that way. I was looking at little things I could do now as I'm deciding which way to go for forced induction.

Btw anyone have input on which forced induction type/kit to go with? Been looking at centrifugal super chargers

 

[46addict]

On a drift car you might be happier with a turbo. I would think blower belts and tensioners don't like to be banged off the rev limiter while going sideways.

 

[OutlawEvans]

So other than forced induction my best route is headers and cams? Other things like throttle bodies and such are pretty useless?

 

[dre256]

I don't have dyno numbers and I thought was a bunch of BS but on my 5.0 going from 80mm to 84.5mm throttle body had a noticeable mid RPM gain from 2500-4500. Above that felt the same and below felt the same.

 

[fdjizm]

Nobody said throttle body spacer yet?

 

[fourdegrees11]

Is this a 3v or a coyote?

 

[OutlawEvans]

Is this a 3v or a coyote?

3V sorry, forgot to include that

 

[RocketcarX]

Gears first, the engine is the wrong end of the car to start on.

Gears and tune (tune will be required)
Stage 2+ clutch
Learn to drive

 

[OutlawEvans]

Gears first, the engine is the wrong end of the car to start on.

Gears and tune (tune will be required)
Stage 2+ clutch
Learn to drive

Got 4.10 gears already.
And okay will do!

 

[RocketcarX]

Got 4.10 gears already.
And okay will do!

Now you need a clutch capable of snapping the rear tires loose, the stock clutch will not stand it long.
Who tuned the car when you did the gears?
4.56 would have been my gear choice in order to have flexibility with rear tire diameter, unless you are drifting at speeds above 115 MPH or so more often than lower speed stuff.
A car set up for drifting needs to be able to break traction a lot more easily than any "compromise" gear set is going to allow.
Once the gears are set and you have a clutch that has a lot of initial grip, I would look at twin screws or roots type superchargers, that was the power is available through the entire range instead of peak rpm and high load situations like a turbo or centrifugal blower.
You will also need much stiffer rear control arms, heim joints even, this way the power isn't absorbed and the tired gets the full "hit" when you side step the clutch.