Boost a pump questions

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I am considering a boost a pump for my Procharged 2011 GT.
Is the Kenne Bell unit good or are there better units out there ?
Are there any precautions, or things to beware of when running boost a pumps ? Would appreciate feedback.
 

GoneFord

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I am considering a boost a pump for my Procharged 2011 GT.
Is the Kenne Bell unit good or are there better units out there ?
Are there any precautions, or things to beware of when running boost a pumps ? Would appreciate feedback.

Been running one for 6 years off a hobbs switch. Haven't had a single problem with it.

I wouldn't run one without the switch. No need to wind the wee out of the pump until you need to. After all, how much time do any of us run under boost???
 

JeremyH

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The bap can be wired so the extra voltage only goes to the pump when you need it, so no real worries there of running it full on all the time. Just make sure you upgrade the wiring when you install one and use a relay.
 

TexasBlownV8

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The bap can be wired so the extra voltage only goes to the pump when you need it, so no real worries there of running it full on all the time. Just make sure you upgrade the wiring when you install one and use a relay.

THIS is the most important, well, that and using the Hobbs switch.
I've seen diagrams/instructions of wiring in a KB without running the separate larger power feed wire, and that just wont cut it. Do it right, and it'll work great!
 

Greg Hazlett

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Used one on m 2010 and 2013, I will be removing the 40A from my 2013 as I am no longer FI if you want to buy a used one.
 

GoneFord

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The bap can be wired so the extra voltage only goes to the pump when you need it, so no real worries there of running it full on all the time. Just make sure you upgrade the wiring when you install one and use a relay.

How does that work? I could dump the hobbs switch?
 

Greg Hazlett

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Yes; you cut off the hobbs swtich and wire it in that way so it is at the same voltage all the time.
 

JeremyH

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How does that work? I could dump the hobbs switch?

Just delete the hobbs and wire the those two wires together, then wire the bap upstream of the fpdm/fpcm, then it controls how much voltage goes to the pump so the full voltage is only there to the pumps when the demand is there.
 

BruceH

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No hobbes here. One 40a powering a gt500 two pump two fpdm setup. Haven't had any problems. I don't like the idea of the voltage suddenly raising without the ecu commanding it to happen.
 

OneQwkStang

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GT500 pumps and two fpdm set up here too. Boosta pumps are a cheap alternative to doing the job correct. I'm not into things that increase electrical current to parts not intended to accept that increase.
 
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GT500 pumps and two fpdm set up here too. Boosta pumps are a cheap alternative to doing the job correct. I'm not into things that increase electrical current to parts not intended to accept that increase.

My tuner recommended a boost a pump. He said if it is wired correctly it
WILL NOT hurt a fuel pump.
 

JeremyH

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Pro and cons for everything, when done correctly a bap can work well. Most tuners will like it as they wont have to mess with fuel tables much making it easier to tune which is a win win. I like it for its voltage regulation properties mainly, a bap will maintain voltage to the pump regardless of other loads or increased amp pull as duty cycle goes up. This helps maintain flow and output pressure throughout the rpm range. However most of our oem pumps aren't built to run higher than 13-14 volts. So you may be effecting pump life in the end but not to such a drastic degree that it would be a measurable difference. Aftermarket variable speed turbine/impeller style pumps such as walbro gt supercar, deatschwerks, aem etc. are designed to operate up to 18 volts which makes them idea for use with a bap and they will handle the increased amp pull and heat better as your still operating in the designed voltage range of the pump.
 
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Dose anyone have any experience with the JMS power max bap's ? According to what Ive read they are better than the Kenne Bell units .
 

JeremyH

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They are all essential the same thing. The KB unit has been around alot longer and is proven reliable. They are static dc amplifiers and are fuse protected, so not alot to really go wrong. The choice is yours. Anything over 17-18volts on a street driven car is asking for trouble imho. Hence these 20-21 volt baps are competition/race applications only.
 
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They are all essential the same thing. The KB unit has been around alot longer and is proven reliable. They are static dc amplifiers and are fuse protected, so not alot to really go wrong. The choice is yours.

What is the issue with "noise" that they are saying is a lot less with the JMS as opposed to the Kenne Bell ? It is some kind of electrical noise, not sure what it does or what it can hurt.
 

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