Brakes question/clarification

Philostang

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I've run Hawks and Carbotech, so here are a couple observations from my experience.

Most of the talk about how track pads need heat to brake or brake terribly when cold seem to apply to Hawk pads. Maybe there are other brands with this quality too, but the Carbotech XP10 and XP12 are pretty damn impressive in ambient temps (40+ deg). These are their intermediate level track pads, and they have more aggressive initial bite at ambient temps than any Hawk pad I've tried (including HPS). Sure, they need heat in them to start braking like they really can (which is fan-tabulous on track), but that's to do their high-level magic on track (think "from 130+ mph" over and over), not to actually brake well in a street-level panic stop (60-80 mph in most cases).

Now, having said that, NO I would not recommend them as a dual purpose pad. On the street they are tolerable in a pinch (read: you're running late and are too damn tired/lazy to swap out to the Bobcats, their actual street pad). They don't dust like Hawks, but they will squeal badly once they get a bit of heat in them from light-duty street braking. More importantly, like some other pads I've heard rumored about, repeated light braking seems to actually remove the transfer layer that they rely upon out on track. A couple events ago I went out for my first session after having driven with the XP12s on the street for a bit (more than my usual, "arrive and drive" habit) and they were damn frightening. I was getting intermittent friction, so it felt like each front tire was on anti-lock action, only independent of one another (and w/o the pedal pounding of real anti-lock activation). The end result was a lot of violent lateral pull/sway under heavy braking. I tried that a couple times that first session before pulling her into the pits. Turns out, the pads needed the rebedding. The next session they were great and continued that way for the day.

Carbotech is pretty adamant that if you're going to use the same rotor, stick with their compounds (i.e. street Bobcats with whatever track pad of theirs is to your liking). Don't try to run Hawk HPS and then swap over to Carbotech XP12s. The Carbos will not be happy, and I suspect you'll have a hell of a time trying to get them bedded in properly if you can do it at all.

Terry says, "For many of those years I was looking for the best dual-purpose street track pad, but it simply does not exist. Once I figured that out things got a lot simpler." Very true. I know it sounds like a hassle doing all this swapping out, but really, if you're going to run a few events a year, you're going to be much happier and figure the same thing out - it really is much simpler to separate the braking duties of your gear.

Best,
-j
 
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I agree with the major points relating to the fact there is no real dual purpose pad and I sympathize for being lazy which is why I run track pads all summer due to the lower than average street mileage it gets. I've run carbotech xp10's and Hawk DTC 60's. I can't say anything about "harder core" pads than those, but I have no problem stopping when they're cold. The extra pedal travel takes a little getting used to but that's about it. Maybe it's because I generally putz around on the street now after getting all the "race car" out of me on the track, but I not so sure I see the hubub about track pads one the street being considered dangerous. "Looking ahead" applies on the street just like it does on the track.
 
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Forgot to add..
I have a personal friend that hoons his brembo car with Hawk HP+'s and brake ducts fairly well. I'm not saying it's a solution, but I think brembos (being the bigger heat sinks the that they are) will get you closer to what you're looking for. That is, at least through your learning stages. Once you get truly hooked and experience the limitations of said brakes, you'll see the light and move up to proper pads.
 

SoundGuyDave

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For me, the "track pad on the street" thing really was brought home on my way up to Road America. There's a section of highway where you transition from 65MPH multi-lane freeway (which for me was around 130 miles, with wide-open brake ducts, and not a single pedal application) to a 35MPH short stretch with a stoplight, which is coincidentally, just over a hill when northbound. As I crested the hill, some yahoo pulled out of a gas station, quite literally right in front of me, and I had to SLAM on the brakes, as there was no room to dodge. With absolutely zero initial bite on the cold DTC-60s, it was not a happy-making feeling seeing that SUV getting closer and closer, and my speed not dropping the way I wanted it to. Eventually, I got enough heat into the pads to not faceplant myself into the SUV's bumper, but it was a bit more drama than I really wanted. If you know that you want to stop, it's not that much of a big deal. It's when you suddenly discover that you NEED to stop, RIGHT NOW, that it gets sketchy.
 
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If you know that you want to stop, it's not that much of a big deal. It's when you suddenly discover that you NEED to stop, RIGHT NOW, that it gets sketchy.

Well, shoot. There goes my point. (Walks outside to tape up his duct inlets)

And I will agree the DTC-60s have less cold bite and produce waaaay more dust than the Carbotech XP10's as John pointed out. Squealing is about the same.
 

TheKurgan

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Looks like several have been down this road and all has been covered. I would only add that I love my cryo treated rotors with the Carbotech pads. OEM pads/rotors for street.
 

Speedfreak

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I'm running the stock calipers, rotors, hawk ceramic brake pads & stainless steel lines. Gonna be upgrading to Brembos, centric 14" rotors & hawk ceramic pads. My car is mainly my daily driver with a track day every other month. Any recommendations on a DOT3 fluid?
 
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I'm running the stock calipers, rotors, hawk ceramic brake pads & stainless steel lines. Gonna be upgrading to Brembos, centric 14" rotors & hawk ceramic pads. My car is mainly my daily driver with a track day every other month. Any recommendations on a DOT3 fluid?



Why dot 3?
 

SoundGuyDave

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I think the main point that EVERYBODY should take away from this thread is that the instant you put your car on the track, EVERYTHING CHANGES in terms of brakes: techniques, hardware, stresses, temps, EVERYTHING.

I don't mean to pick on you, Speedfreak, but just because your car is your DD doesn't mitigate the thermal stresses you'll put your brakes through. If by "every other month" you mean that you do six DE weekends per year, that's actually a pretty stout schedule, and you WILL get faster and faster as a result. That means that the braking zone that WAS 95MPH down to 50 will soon become 115MPH down to 60, and if you were at the thermal limit before, you'll soon exceed the limits, and the result won't be good.

Get a set of take-off or stocker rotors to run with the ceramics, and use the Centrics with a good set of track pads and just swap the whole package out. For fluid, forget about DOT3 stuff! 415* boiling point won't cut it, go for Motul RBF600, or Castrol SRX, and just be done with it. The Motul stuff you'll want to flush (completely!) every six months, maybe eight since you're in a pretty dry climate. The Castrol should serve well for a full year, but both will probably require a touch of bleeding here and there just to get fresh fluid down into the calipers. Oh, and don't forget to DUCT AIR TO THE BRAKES!!! Especially where you're coming from, where the ambient temps will be higher than most will see in the US on average...
 

JAJ

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If you're going to use DOT 3 fluid, only use Motorcraft. It's the same boiling point as most DOT 4's. A better choice is to install Castrol SRF and change it once a year - it's the most cost effective fluid of all of them because it lasts so long, but it costs $80 a liter to buy.

For brake pads, I run Pagid RS19 Yellow's on the street and the track with no problems, and although they're not listed in my sig, I also run Girodisc front rotors because the stock rotors distort from the heat. The Pagids are a real endurance racing pad, but the dust isn't corrosive and they work ok when they're cold. Pagid is a European manufacturer that has been supplying Porsche and BMW for years, and they make a pad for the front Brembo's. I run PFC-06's in the rear.
 
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Vorshlag-Fair

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We can argue brands of pads, fluids and even rotors, but there is so much bias on the internet - brand fandome, marketing hype, and other nonsense - that it is hard to find good opinions based on extensive testing, direct experience and facts. I dunno... I don't really care about one brand over another - I care about results. We've gone through a LOT of brakes on our own S197s in the past 3 years, and here's my observations on which brands tend to worked better, for us - used in both autocross and track/time trial abuse. If you race in endurance or pro racing series with an S197, some classes within have very specified brake packages, some of this won't apply to you (but those guys aren't on the forums looking for advice, either)

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I've already gone over brake pad brands. I've bounced around through a lot of brake company catalogs and have had better luck with the more expensive brands. And I'm cheap, so I wasn't happy about this. But the cheaper the pad, the more "filler" material it seems to have, which doesn't wear well and tends to either melt or crumble and fall apart. I cannot count how many sets of 3/4 to 1/2 used track pads I saw crumble to dust when they were removed, during a track to street pad swap. It is painful to watch as literally hundreds of dollars of brake pad material just falls to the ground. "You get what you pay for" applies. I no longer use Hawk pads. And even though the margins are crap and prices are kinda high, we use and sell Carbotech - because I have had excellent results personally with this brand, and I trust their advice and their products.

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Brake fluid. Again, I'm cheap and all through college I used Ford DOT3 and then switched to DOT4 Castrol LMA/synthetic, which you used to be able to buy at AutoZone for about $9/bottle (now it is about $16.50 for 32 oz or .94 liters). It worked OK, but I could boil it in a Fox Mustang pretty quickly! Over the next 25 years tracking and autocrossing I tried various other brands of lower cost DOT3 and DOT4 (probably 100 bottles of Motorcraft, lots of Valvoline, and maybe 50 bottles of ATE), tried Castrol SRF briefly (ouch!), and all of the Motuls, from my Fox Mustang days in the late 1980s (those cars had complete sh!t brakes) to the S197s I race today. Castrol SRF is so damned costly ($76/liter at SafeRacer) that it is better left to the pro race teams, and the Motul RBF660 is almost as bad ($65/liter). These both also tend to be more hygroscopic (absorb water) and don't last as long between flushes.

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The best bang-per-buck is the Motul RBF600, to me. We get about 4 race weekends between flushes (it gets dirty from the quickly burned away front dust seals in the Brembo calipers), and bleed the fluid just a tick in between each event, or after each pad swap. I haven't "lost the pedal" in the 2011 GT since we started using RBF600, and I am a "brake abuser". The cost of the RBF600 ($42/liter) isn't nearly as bad as the RBF660 or SRF, and we liked this stuff so much we became a Motul dealer last year. The RBF600 sells very well to track guys. We also stock and sell ATE Blue, mostly to autocrossers. Nobody has asked for SRF at our shop, yet.

Motul RBF660 - 500ml Bottle, $32.20

Motul RBF600 - 500ml Bottle, $21.60

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ATE Super Blue - 1 liter, $15.95

Brake rotors brands - that's a tricky one. There are some differences in brands, and generally the cheapest east Asian sourced, OEM replacement stuff tends to warp. We've warped front 14" Mustang rotors in one session, but the costs were so low on that particular brand we should have known better. We have had drastically better luck with other brands, like Centric. We've started to stock the 14" fronts from this company now. And on the rear you can get Brembo replacements for almost the same price as other brands, so we use those. I've "popped" cheaper brand rear rotors (a pair of rear rotors actually split all the way through when cooling down in the paddock after a particularly hard track session).

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Now when you talk about 2-piece rotors, the cost-per-mile factor goes out the window. Sure, these can be 1.3-1.5 pounds lighter (which isn't much on a 25 pound rotor), but the cost is astronomically higher (generally 5x). Even the Chinese made 2-piece rotors go for BIG money (and most of them are). Girodisc 14" fronts are about $800/pair, and I've seen other brands sell for close to $1000/pair. They might list a tick longer than a 1-piece (doubtful, but I don't have any data), but not 5x longer... which is the cost difference over a quality 1-piece front. Too costly for me to save 3 pounds for the pair, so I've stuck with 1-piece rotors. Oddly, when you jump down to 13" diameter 2-piece rotors don't bring such a premium, but that's far too small for a car this heavy. Now that we've figured out which brands warp and which ones last, we no longer have that issue and the fronts last many weekends between replacements.

Just my two cents... YMMV. :beer:
 
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TheViking

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What's your opinion on cryogenics (frozenrotors, etc) for dedicated track rotors?
 

csamsh

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What's your opinion on cryogenics (frozenrotors, etc) for dedicated track rotors?

The science is good- reorganize crystal structure and all that, but I imagine there's a difference between treatment techniques, quality control, alloy quality, etc. I don't have any firsthand experience as such though.
 

Vorshlag-Fair

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What's your opinion on cryogenics (frozenrotors, etc) for dedicated track rotors?

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The science might be there for cryo treatments, but I think it is far FAR different than the molecular structure changes you see in high temperature heat treating. And how any of that affects brake wear or performance is a bit of a stretch. There are vibratory treatments that people try to sell, too. In the end, it really just is iron...

There are some "high carbon" iron (iron is typically got a good percentage of carbon in it; steel is just very low carbon iron, with some other alloying agents) Centric rotors we might try. I think we'd see more performance or life from bigger/better cooling, though. These things like cryo treatments are fringe changes that might make very small differences, if any.

As with everything: "Be skeptical." Always ask for data from a third party test.

Just my two cents... (as an engineer, who spec's heat treatments on parts we design every week)
 
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zquez

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Terry,

Do you have an opinion on PFC pads? I'm planning to run the PFC 01 compound on the front and 97 on the rear as soon as I have the coin.
 

JAJ

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Terry,

Do you have an opinion on PFC pads? I'm planning to run the PFC 01 compound on the front and 97 on the rear as soon as I have the coin.

I've run PFC 01's on the front and they're fine. I have a set of rear 97's I'd happily give away. They're corrosive as hell on the rims if the dust gets wet. That's why I run 06's at the back. I've got a set of PFC08's to try on the front when the Pagid RS19's wear out. Or maybe not. The point is that in endurance racing, Pagid and PFC are the suppliers to the guys on the podium. Everything else is just marketing.
 

Speedfreak

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WOW! Thanks for all the advice guys...

I do have a Steeda brake cooling kit sitting in storage waiting to get installed as the brakes go in. I forgot to mention it in my post. With regards to the brake fluid, I reckon DOT3 was the way forward 'cause with the OEM fluid, in a couple or so laps, the brakes were non existent! With its higher boiling point, I assume it'll last longer. At the moment, I don't want to have to swap out brakes every track session (I don't think my driving has reached that standard yet). As I get there, I'm sure to get track only set of brakes & wheels.
 

steveespo

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Terry,
Thanks for the honest input. I was on the "lightweight 2 piece rotor train" for 2 years and have finally seen the light. I swapped to the 6 piston 15" GT500 front setup with Carbotech XP20, on the rear I have been running Baer Eradispeed 14" rotor (cross drilled, dumb I know) and Carbo XP-12 rear pads. Last week at VIR I totally cracked the 5 day used rear rings, up front the Ford OEM solids have no wear and no signs of heat check or microcracking. After getting my car fixed up (after having an a**hole rear end my trailer and wreck my truck, car and trailer), I am going back to stock OEM Ford rear rotors. Cost per unit is $116 for front and $25 for each rear rotor. The Continental Challenge guys do just fine with them so I think it's OK to give it a go.
Results of A**hole;





Steve
 

zquez

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The fuck man! No!!!


Centric rotors here. Cheap and reliable.

Never buy autozone. lol I run them on the street right now and they look worse than my track rotors.
 

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