Brand new 2012 coming in for few mods and a big ass turbo

[stkjock]

Was MMR your pick Dustin or the customers?

You are tuning?

 

[CPRsm]

We talked about a few companies, and this is who we settled on. It's always the customers choice. Yeah, I'll be tuning it. Looking forward to the real time tuning of the stand alone.

What about using a fmic and water/meth?

Oh, it's getting a fmic. That's where the A/W is going, up front just like an A/A. Same place I put the 500 coolers. But no water and meth. We would need a BUNCH of nozzles lol. Probably 8, the size of 205 inj's ?

 

[CPRsm]

Knocked this out real quick like.

 

[toorbeenee]

thumbs up for you,,,,great build

 

[Towelly]

Technically isn't the "intercooler" just a self contained H/E? Meaning the little stainless steal thing in front of your water tank.

 

[CPRsm]

thumbs up for you,,,,great build

Thank you sir

Technically isn't the "intercooler" just a self contained H/E? Meaning the little stainless steal thing in front of your water tank.

Eh, kinda, but not really. On an HE, the air passes thru to pull heat out of the water. The intercooler uses water to pull the hear out of the charge air going into the engine. Similar concept, but not quite the same. The cores are even different



Here is the wastegate. Made in the US. One piece wastegate valve, not a two piece like some. Ferrea makes the valve in this bad boy so you know it's good shit. You can see it's completely V-banded. No need to changes spring really, but IF you decide, it's easy. The inlet and outlet are interlocking for easy alignment on install, and a leak proof seal, first time. The v-bands for the Headers are the same way.

 

[CPRsm]

No white knuckled driving here. 14 up front and 13's in the rear. Start the install of the front and then find out what needs to be done to get the rears to fit with the 8.8 brakes

 

[CPRsm]

Important to remember about inlet temps when comparing then is the RISE. It does no good to compare numbers when it's 60 out one day, and 90 for another, and try to compare the actual temp. The actual temp is almost irrelevant. Folks are seeing 40 to 100+ degree climbs in inlets on boosted apps for these cars. The worst one offender is at only 8psi!! That is not safe, or indicative of making power. 40 degree increase in inlets is unacceptable. Especially if it is only 8 psi.



This is a 383SBC 12 psi. It moves more CFM than a Coyote will at probably 18psi. (Too lazy to actually do the math) The more cfm, even at the same boost is harder to cool. More air molecules to slow down. But the inlets gain is only a whopping 5 deg on this 9sec 4500 lb truck. No easy task taking 100 deg out with no ice, in Fl weather lol. No heat exchanger, no problem. Boost activated. The blue/green line is the inlet temp. Yellow is the discharge temp from the turbo.

At the track he sees 15 degree rise iirc ? Boost at 18 psi, discharge temps over 300 deg and inlets are 100 with ice.

 

[Nastystang06]

So this method is more effective because your not constantly heating the water?

 

[CPRsm]

Partly, even though just running around there isn't any heat being put into it. The other is that for a heat exchanger to work properly, the water needs to move slowly, to give the heat exchanger time to pull heat out of the water. That is the exact opposite of what you want for the inlets to be as cool as possible. Heat exchangers are restrictions themselves, and have small supply lines. Both are problems when you are trying to move massive amounts of water. You need to move massive amounts to keep it cool.

 

[Nastystang06]

So what if you moved massive amounts just all the time?

Im really interested in this lol

 

[CPRsm]

Not a problem man. Only thing I could see if you had the pump on all the time with a setup like this is the turbo would pick up hot air form the engine bay, and transfer it to the water. I can't see the water getting really hot, but there wouldn't be any benefit. In a system with a heat exchanger, a water pump that moves water too fast will see good inlets up front, but will slowly over heat the system because the water cannot remain in the heat exchanger to pull the heat out. Too slow, and the water is cooled really well, but then too slow through the intercooler to keep inlets in check.

This kit like the 500's will be available with an air to air also. It will require a bunch of cutting to get it in. If the results are anything like the GT500 inlets, it will be well worth the work. A/W shouldn't require much if any cutting though.

 

[Nastystang06]

okay so like on my lightning i had it routed like this

bed mounted ice tank>pump>intercooler>heat extchanger>ice tank

your setup is this if I understand correctly

ice tank>pump>intecooler>icetank

my question is when the water does get hot, how do you cool it back off withouth the exchanger, thats why i had the heated water coming from the intercooler going through the heat axchanger then back into the tank, but that melts the ice, but i wouldnt think any more than coming strait from the ic

stock it was routed

tank>pump>exchanger>ic>tank

im considering building s single or twin turbo setup for mine since im fully forged now and want the best ait2 possible since it gets 110 here in east tx

 

[CPRsm]

You've got it right. Tank-pump-ic-tank. Your lightning had to be cooled back down because it had two heat sources making the water hot. This will only have one. With it off, and only on during boost, you'll get arrested long before you over heat the water tank. It goes up 5 deg on a 130+mph pull lol. At only 5 degree increases, how long and how many pulls do you have to make before you even come close to even getting the tank hot? There is no reason to worry about recovery if you can't over heat it.

Keep in mind my closest competitor sees 35+ deg climb in inlets, at a MINIMUM. Mine sees only 5 deg. On a 110 deg day, theirs will be at 145 minimum first pull, some WELL over 200 while mine will be 115. Who's will you want on those hot days?

 

[ethic1]

nice build

 

[Nastystang06]

You've got it right. Tank-pump-ic-tank. Your lightning had to be cooled back down because it had two heat sources making the water hot. This will only have one. With it off, and only on during boost, you'll get arrested long before you over heat the water tank. It goes up 5 deg on a 130+mph pull lol. At only 5 degree increases, how long and how many pulls do you have to make before you even come close to even getting the tank hot? There is no reason to worry about recovery if you can't over heat it.

Keep in mind my closest competitor sees 35+ deg climb in inlets, at a MINIMUM. Mine sees only 5 deg. On a 110 deg day, theirs will be at 145 minimum first pull, some WELL over 200 while mine will be 115. Who's will you want on those hot days?

So what do I need to try this out, is this specific from you?

And what size turbo are you going to use, what size downpipe

 

[CPRsm]

So far I'm the only one to do it. Now, my a/a works VERY well also. It'll be an option of my kit. Not sure on the sizes yet on the turbo yet. But that family will house a 64mm up to an 88mm. So I'm not sure exacly what size the base will be. This car will get an 88mm though. Down pipe, got something really special going on there.

 

[Nastystang06]

I was just wondering, if i do a turbo i will most likley build it myself since I have all the required tools and equipment to fab it up, but i will need to order parts from someone lol thats why im taking interest in what you have to offer, and if individual parts can be purchased lol

 

[CPRsm]

Yeah, if you want just the intercooler or the system that's fine. You'll just build in and out of the cooler, and run ur lines.

 

[Nastystang06]

Yea that's very simple
I kinda want to see what yours does
I was wanting to do an a2a at first but now I want more info on your systems
88 seems like a good size turbo but I think I'm going to try out a 76 first, being a manual and mostly a street car I need it to spool pretty quick

I wanted twins but I need to keep the cost down and a single kit is such a simple concept I don't see why more people have not done it

I believe powerhouse tried a 72 but I have seen no dump numbers or track times
Hellions 67 has not impressed me nor do I like the low mount
Idk if it was fastene or jpc but one I them made god power on a 76 but on a built motor with lower compression
I'll be built but still 11:1 so that's the results I'm looking to compare