Camber Camber Camber !

[Monkeyporn]

Hey I need some advice i changed my tires about a year ago and now my tires are experiencing premature wearing I wasn't aware of the negative camber issue that arises once you put wider tires on. To fix this I'm told I need camber / caster plates wondering if anyone else has gone through this and can recommend some plates. I'd prefer the kind that don't require me to drill...Thanks Brandi

 

[Jack F]

Significant lowering is going to require caster/camber plates, but just wider tires-no. Wider tires dont't induce any more negative camber.

 

[AHaze]

I doubt camber is causing your tire wear unless it's massively out of spec. I run 2° of negative camber (1.25° more than max. factory spec) and have 9000 miles on my current tires (275 wide Firestones) with no notable uneven wear. If the inside edge of your front tires is getting shredded, check your toe measurement and tie rods.

 

[oldVOR]

Wider wheels/tires won't change the camber.
Toe being out-of-spec will wear tires faster than mild camber settings.

When you do need a set of C/C plates, these are your best bet

 

[Monkeyporn]

Significant lowering is going to require caster/camber plates, but just wider tires-no. Wider tires dont't induce any more negative camber.

Oh guess I should have mentioned that my car is lowered. I just took the car today for an alignment they said it wasn't out I'm not sure what to make of these number maybe someone here can.
Brandi
Toe Specification Min -0.05 Max 0.15

Initial Left 0.35 Final 0.10
Initial Right -0.20 Final 0.05
it looks like they set the toe to me but he didn't say they changed any settings. He told the the alignment was good.

Please if anyone can make heads or tails of these number please help. Thanks

 

[Monkeyporn]

Wider wheels/tires won't change the camber.
Toe being out-of-spec will wear tires faster than mild camber settings.

When you do need a set of C/C plates, these are your best bet

The guy at the service center told me fords are engineered with negative camber build in and that when you add wider tires it only increases the problem.

 

[msvela448]

With a lowered car you want to do camber plates. Here's a good write up about them: https://www.maximummotorsports.com/tech_front_susp_ccplate.aspx


The Maximum Motorsports ones have been great for me and are half the price of the Vorshlag ones.

https://www.maximummotorsports.com/...ates-2005-2010-and-2007-2014-GT500-P1151.aspx

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[Jack F]

The guy....when you add wider tires it only increases the problem.

The guy is wrong. What were your camber specs? Are your tires wearing on the inboard side? You might be able to get away with just camber bolts (cheap).

 

[86GT351]

Oh guess I should have mentioned that my car is lowered. I just took the car today for an alignment they said it wasn't out I'm not sure what to make of these number maybe someone here can.
Brandi
Toe Specification Min -0.05 Max 0.15

Initial Left 0.35 Final 0.10
Initial Right -0.20 Final 0.05
it looks like they set the toe to me but he didn't say they changed any settings. He told the the alignment was good.

Please if anyone can make heads or tails of these number please help. Thanks

The Statement that he told you the Alignment was good and that NO settings were changed concerns me. Honestly sounds like he has no idea. We would need to see a print out from before and after. With the Toe readings before shown it can cause tire wear. However the Toe reading is really irrelevant if the Camber is off.

 

[Juice]

Oh guess I should have mentioned that my car is lowered. I just took the car today for an alignment they said it wasn't out I'm not sure what to make of these number maybe someone here can.
Brandi
Toe Specification Min -0.05 Max 0.15

Initial Left 0.35 Final 0.10
Initial Right -0.20 Final 0.05
it looks like they set the toe to me but he didn't say they changed any settings. He told the the alignment was good.

Please if anyone can make heads or tails of these number please help. Thanks

Looks to me toe was +.015, or toe'd in. This may show as outside edge wear. The change to me seems all they did was essentially center the steering wheel.

Do you have photos of.the premature wear? It would help.
But no matter how good the alignment is, front tires will always wear somewhat uneven. Only way to compensate is tire rotation. Which is not possible with a staggered setup.

I run near -2* camber and have zero wear issues. Excess negative camber can wear the inside edge, but the wear pattern will be different than excess toe out. Post pic of the worn tires if possible. And how many miles driven to produce said wear.

 

[86GT351]

 

[Juice]

^^ cup wear is what you see on rear tires of many front wheel drive cars. When the owner does NOT rotate tires. And there is nothing weong with the rear suspension. I recall Hondas were bad for that type of rear wear.

 

[86GT351]

^^ cup wear is what you see on rear tires of many front wheel drive cars. When the owner does NOT rotate tires. And there is nothing weong with the rear suspension. I recall Hondas were bad for that type of rear wear.

Front wheel drive all had that issue. Does not help with a weak shock either. Tire would skip down the road instead of just rolling.

 

[Monkeyporn]

The guy is wrong. What were your camber specs? Are your tires wearing on the inboard side? You might be able to get away with just camber bolts (cheap).

He did mention camber bolts which I already knew about. As for my camber numbers they go like this.
Left Camber Initial -1.3 Right Camber Initial -1.3
Left Camber Final -1.3 Right Camber Final - 1.3
Camber Spec Min -1.5 Max 0.0

I also am not sure of these spec numbers lighter. I posted last night and gave the spec number off the paper the man gave me, but I also did a search on the internet for 07 mustang toe spec and got different numbers. This makes me wonder if he even had the right car inputted in the machine.
So do more peeps do the bolts or the plates to address negitive camber ?

 

[Monkeyporn]

OK this is very helpful when he showed the the two front tires and I felt the treads the passenger tire was worn on the very inside edge and it was smooth. however when I felt the drivers side tires while it too was worn on the inside edge it had a feathering feel to it. This leads me to believe the drivers tires was toed IN and the passenger tire was toed OUT. Is that correct ?

 

[Monkeyporn]

With a lowered car you want to do camber plates. Here's a good write up about them: https://www.maximummotorsports.com/tech_front_susp_ccplate.aspx


The Maximum Motorsports ones have been great for me and are half the price of the Vorshlag ones.

https://www.maximummotorsports.com/...ates-2005-2010-and-2007-2014-GT500-P1151.aspx

Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk

Thanks but I have a question from what I've read about CC plates their all noisy, how is it with these are they well build and quite ?

 

[Juice]

Mine was feathering both inside edges. Bone stock alignment, before cc plates or any other upgrades. For me, I believe it was the sloppy hydro bushings. Since the urathane lower arm bushings, my tires no longer feather. But I also drive about 1/3rd of street miles anymore.

 

[msvela448]

Thanks but I have a question from what I've read about CC plates their all noisy, how is it with these are they well build and quite ?

I've had zero issues with mine. They are solid and very well built. I have no noise.

Maximum Motorsports has been in the Mustang suspension game for a LONG time. They build a quality product... I doubt you'll find much disagreement on any forum. Buy direct from them though... I've read they had an issue a while back with other company's copying their design and even putting their name on the product.

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[DieHarder]

You can go with CC plates if you like but given that your car is lowered it may be easier/cheaper/faster just to rotate the upper strut mounts 180 deg and have it rechecked. I'm lowered as well (2006 GT) and rotating my strut mounts put my camber at a near perfect .7/.8 both sides. No need for camber bolts anymore and my tires wear fine (they were out of spec at about -1.5 each side). My front struts consist of Roush springs; Bilstein B6 struts and GT500 strut mounts.

For reference stock alignment specs (in degrees) are as follows:
Front Caster: LH 7.1 +- 0.75; RH 7.1 +- 0.75 Total/Split: 0 =- 0.75
Front Camber: LH = -0.75 =- 0.75; RH -0.75 +- 0.75; Total/Split: 0 +- 0.75
Toe: 0.10 +- 0.20 (pos value = toe in; neg value = toe out)

 

[Monkeyporn]

You can go with CC plates if you like but given that your car is lowered it may be easier/cheaper/faster just to rotate the upper strut mounts 180 deg and have it rechecked. I'm lowered as well (2006 GT) and rotating my strut mounts put my camber at a near perfect .7/.8 both sides. No need for camber bolts anymore and my tires wear fine (they were out of spec at about -1.5 each side). My front struts consist of Roush springs; Bilstein B6 struts and GT500 strut mounts.

For reference stock alignment specs (in degrees) are as follows:
Front Caster: LH 7.1 +- 0.75; RH 7.1 +- 0.75 Total/Split: 0 =- 0.75
Front Camber: LH = -0.75 =- 0.75; RH -0.75 +- 0.75; Total/Split: 0 +- 0.75
Toe: 0.10 +- 0.20 (pos value = toe in; neg value = toe out)

I updated my front suspension when I got the car with GT500 lower control arms, new tie rod ends and sway bar links as well as Koni Yellow shocks & struts and GT500 strut mounts. Can the GT500 strut mounts be rotated ?