CarPro Denim Orange Peel Removal Pad

[28ONE]

The orange peel is in the top coat. So if it's single stage then the orange peel is in the paint. If it's two stage then the peel is in the clear. I talked to a couple of painters that would put an extra coat of clear so they have more material to smooth out.

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This is true. An you can get it out with ease.

Single stage is tricky cause you're actually color sanding, and that could get dangerous quick if you're not careful

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Thanks for the education guys! Id be scurred to use on my ride.

 

[ExSRT8Guy]

Just stumbled on to this. May give it a try on my F100 (factory paint, factory orange peel - big time - on the passenger side).

 

[BlackReign]

I hate to bounce an old thread, but I was just curious if anyone had a chance to pick up and try one of these Denim pads?

Good results?

 

[00blkvert]

I haven't tried them. ModdedMach is waiting for them to come in Stock on autoality.com and he plans on using them on his 5.0.

 

[GrnBullitt08]

I've yet to order them. I've been slacking one details lately. Too busy with work and moving the company to a new location.

Subbed for results as well.

 

[BlackReign]

Yeah, I've been forever working on a fence around my backyard...and thats where all my extra money (and mainly time) is going these days. Needless to say, I haven't had time to really buy/use anything.

Really curious about the results though.

 

[TxGt1]

I tried a test spot on the rear quarter using a rotary and FG400 compound. It removed the Orange peel and finishes damn near LSP ready. I have not had the time to do the whole car.


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[BlackReign]

I tried a test spot on the rear quarter using a rotary and FG400 compound. It removed the Orange peel and finishes damn near LSP ready. I have not had the time to do the whole car.


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Interesting...all of my horizontal surfaces look good (zero orange peel), but the doors and spots on the quarters need work.

I may have to drop the coin and find the time....the orange peel just looks like crap.

 

[ChrisGT]

Interested, I am.

 

[TxGt1]

Interesting...all of my horizontal surfaces look good (zero orange peel), but the doors and spots on the quarters need work.

I may have to drop the coin and find the time....the orange peel just looks like crap.

Yep same here. I will probably hit the quarters and doors and call it a day. Mines a DD and is kept outside 24/7 need to keep as much clear as possible

 

[28ONE]

I tried a test spot on the rear quarter using a rotary and FG400 compound. It removed the Orange peel and finishes damn near LSP ready. I have not had the time to do the whole car.


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How many passes did you do? Our clear is so thin, super hesitant to try these pads...

 

[TxGt1]

I had best results running at 900rpm slow/medium arm speed with a little pressure the first 4 passes then last two passes with no pressure.

I aslo did a small spot at 1200rpm medium arm speed no pressure and it did a goo job too. I did not have a paint thickness guage at the time so I felt more comfortable at lower rpm.

 

[28ONE]

Man it's tempting to try but I just UKd mine about 6 months ago...

 

[ModdedMach]

I hate to bounce an old thread, but I was just curious if anyone had a chance to pick up and try one of these Denim pads?

Good results?

Ive used the velvet pads, on Rotary and Flex 3401. Worked well but took a couple section sets of 4-5 passes to level the peel to my desired level. My paint isnt thick by any means for factory but my peel is pretty severe (IMO). So im going to be trying the denim pads soon to hopefully make less work of the peel reduction/correction.

I haven't tried them. ModdedMach is waiting for them to come in Stock on autoality.com and he plans on using them on his 5.0.

Still waiting lol

How many passes did you do? Our clear is so thin, super hesitant to try these pads...

They make Velvet and Denim pads, the denim is designed to be used on aftermarket paint which, generally speaking, is a WHOLE lot thicker than facotry paint. The velvet pads DO level peel but arent nearly as aggressive as i thought theyd be at first. Most of my car is <90 Microns which is pretty thin for factory and ive done multiple passes of the same area using both Flex PE14 and 3401 with decent results. Ill be picking up some denim pads soon to make quicker/easier work of the peel on my car.

I prefer using them with the 3401, mostly just because, even at low speed, these pads tend to build up heat pretty damn quick with a rotary.

 

[BlackReign]

the denim is designed to be used on aftermarket paint which, generally speaking, is a WHOLE lot thicker than facotry paint.

That's what I understood from what I read, but I actually asked a question about that in the AutoGeek demo video on Youtube and Mike Philips responded basically saying that the Denim pad would be ok with factory paint. I think kind of like you pointed out, it would depend on the paint thickness.

 

[ModdedMach]

That's what I understood from what I read, but I actually asked a question about that in the AutoGeek demo video on Youtube and Mike Philips responded basically saying that the Denim pad would be ok with factory paint. I think kind of like you pointed out, it would depend on the paint thickness.

I've spent a decent amount of times doing test sections on my 5.0 with the velvet on my flex machines. My cars paint is both thin and soft and they didn't remove an excessive amount of paint order completely remove the peel in 2 section sets, that's why I'm gonna order the denim pads.

Technique and compound selection also play a role in cut amount, I've used a few different combos in that respect as well.

 

[BlackReign]

I've spent a decent amount of times doing test sections on my 5.0 with the velvet on my flex machines. My cars paint is both thin and soft and they didn't remove an excessive amount of paint order completely remove the peel in 2 section sets, that's why I'm gonna order the denim pads.

Technique and compound selection also play a role in cut amount, I've used a few different combos in that respect as well.

Totally get it

You're just braver than I am about testing on my own car lol. Thats why I'm kind of doing some searches about what compounds folks are using and what kind of results they're getting.
I'm a bit of a chicken...not gonna lie. I honestly need get over that lol.

 

[ModdedMach]

Totally get it

You're just braver than I am about testing on my own car lol. Thats why I'm kind of doing some searches about what compounds folks are using and what kind of results they're getting.
I'm a bit of a chicken...not gonna lie. I honestly need get over that lol.

I have a paint thickness gauge lol. I was very careful the first time I used it I did a pass then measured paint and then another pass and then I measured the paint again and then I did two more passes measured the paint again to gradually see how much paint was removed per pass.

 

[NUTCASE]

this may be slightly off topic but why do painters purposely orange peel paint?

I know it is known here as a paint defect but I also heard guys talk about putting orange peel into the paint so it looks like factory.

but then if you are doing an accident repair you will have a hood and fender with orange peel, but then the rest of the car is completely smooth.

makes no sense to me and pisses me off because the shit is in the paint on my car. so no getting it without stripping the clear. Luckily when I do other cars I have yet to get somebody who is so sharp enough on the subject to identify where smooth ends and orange peel begins. so thus far nobody has asked me about orange peel repair. but I think I should be ready.

 

[ModdedMach]

this may be slightly off topic but why do painters purposely orange peel paint?

I know it is known here as a paint defect but I also heard guys talk about putting orange peel into the paint so it looks like factory.

but then if you are doing an accident repair you will have a hood and fender with orange peel, but then the rest of the car is completely smooth.

makes no sense to me and pisses me off because the shit is in the paint on my car. so no getting it without stripping the clear. Luckily when I do other cars I have yet to get somebody who is so sharp enough on the subject to identify where smooth ends and orange peel begins. so thus far nobody has asked me about orange peel repair. but I think I should be ready.

If a painter has told you they did it on "purpose" they are probably full of shit, lol. The only reason i can imagine a painter doing something to result in more peel is in order to hide other imperfections, like dust inclusions.

If normal people (non-detailers) noticed a huge difference in orange peel, that would mean that people would also notice the ridiculous rotary hologram hack jobs that 99% of autobody people do to paint when they repair a car- the REASON they do that is to level the clear to amp gloss and reduce the peel. In most situations, i would imagine they try to level the clear to match the factory peel level, but im fairly certain the peel generally starts far worse and is reduced to match, not sprayed a certain way to match....if that makes sense.

Peel is caused because the paint (clear) does some shrinking as it dries/cures. Not all factory cars have alot of orange peel, it varies with manufacturer, color, sometimes model. There is usually some, and sometimes alot, just depends.

What you have to remember is that factory paint is sprayed by a robot. The tip of the sprayer statically charges the atomized paint particles to be attracted to the metal substrate (panel/bodypart), subsequently, they only use the exact amount of primer/color/clear that is needed to create the proper coverage and longevity of the paint system in order to minimize cost. This process, depending on the manufacturer of car and paint, causes some variations in orange peel. On your normal cars, the paint is cured and thats it, there is no refinement or polishing, so if there is peel, there is peel.

You will also notice that A LOT of car manufacturers use alot of metallics in their color selections- this is no coincidence as the metal flake in those paints help hide imperfections in the clear coat like orange peel or dust inclusions.

IME, aftermarket paint or paint sprayed by hand usually has WAYY more orange peel than factory paint if left unpolished. Most painters use a rotary polisher with wool and aggressive compound to "buff out" the car, which helps amp up the gloss and reduce the peel. And no- normally just a rotary polisher and wool wouldnt have a huge impact on orange peel but freshly sprayed paint is SUPER soft and they usually use very aggressive, and large wool pads at speeds that, IMO, are WAY to fast for paint. Thats why 99.999% of resprays are covered in holograms/buffer trails, because peel is fairly common with resprays and thats the preferred/cheapest/fastest way for autobody places to get things looking "good".

Itll be very seldom that someone asks you for a full peel reduction job, have had 1 or 2 people ask and most of the time they are like NVM when they find out that the price tag has a comma in it, lol. Properly polished paint with some peel is enough for most people.

My car is gloss black and by god the factory peel is atrocious, lol, so its getting the full stuff. Full peel reduction/paint correction, liquid crystal coating on all paint/glass/trim and plastic. Wheels are getting coated as well.

Anywho, hope that helps put "peel" in perspective for you. Thats not a textbook answer, just the knowledge ive procured from my time working on/detailing cars.

If you google it, there is a really good example of the denim pads being used on a metallic red respray (i think it was a mazda). The review was on autopia. The car was repaired from a collision and the paint difference in peel was drastic (repray had much more) and the reviewer reduced the peel to be similar to the factory paint.

Anyway, thanks for reading my novel, im long winded, youll get used to it lol.