Chasing Superchager Belt Issues/Engine Knock/Clutch problems

GT500KR

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As far as replacing phasers I just insert the wedge and mark the chain and phaser and cam and remove phaser and install new one right?
 

i am ryan

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GT500KR

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ok well i got the one on. way easier than i thought. only took me an hour or so.
problem now is i thought i was good with replacing the passenger phaser which is where all the noise was coming from. now today driving to work it was great till i got to the parking lot again and it was really bad. and wouldnt reset after i turned it off like before.... :/ guess its the driver side now? i hope it resets so i can drive it home. i have another phaser that just came in sitting at home. SO TIRED OF THIS CAR!! ready to sell it
 

GT500KR

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Well drove car to work. Drove great... got to parking lot and went to shit. Started knocking and running like shit. Now it's stranded at work. It'll crank but will only spit and choke on itself. Hoping the other phaser (drivers side) is locked in advanced mode cause I'm going to work early now to put a new phaser on in the parking lot....

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crownaviation

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Well drove car to work. Drove great... got to parking lot and went to shit. Started knocking and running like shit. Now it's stranded at work. It'll crank but will only spit and choke on itself. Hoping the other phaser (drivers side) is locked in advanced mode cause I'm going to work early now to put a new phaser on in the parking lot....

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when they fail they normally fail advanced.. and don't come back out
 

GT500KR

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yea how the fuck does this happen???
could the phaser of advacned the cam enough for the valve to hit the piston causing the rocker to crush like this!!! TIRED OF THIS SHIT
 

GT500KR

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so i had put a new driver side phaser on in the parking lot

and it still didnt fire up.
i replaced the crank and cam sensors and still nothing. when i looked at the passenger cam sensor it looked like it had been hit by the phaser so i pulled the valve cover and found the carnage... but shouldnt it still run?
 

crownaviation

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That blows dick man and sorry you are going thru all this.

I would not even try to run it/turn it over with that damage..... and a bad phaser does not do that.

Would appear that you possibly had another tensioner/chain related issue and chain jumped a BUNCH of teeth.. If I had to guess without being there.

All the timing issues lately makes me want to go to a big cu carb motor wit shit sticking out the hood. I rag on old pushrod tech.. but this is getting rediculous.

Were you still using the 2v steel tensioners? After my last brush with death I pulled those fuckers back off. Broke a guide and was moments from the same disaster you are looking at. Fortunately I stopped at the first sign of trouble and tore it down to find the arm broken and tensioner fully ratcheted out. That actually saved my bacon from doing exactly what yours did but caused it to begin with. Had the tensioner relaxed I would have jumped timing and posting pics like that.
 
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GT500KR

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That blows dick man and sorry you are going thru all this.

I would not even try to run it/turn it over with that damage..... and a bad phaser does not do that.

Would appear that you possibly had another tensioner/chain related issue and chain jumped a BUNCH of teeth.. If I had to guess without being there.

All the timing issues lately makes me want to go to a big cu carb motor wit shit sticking out the hood. I rag on old pushrod tech.. but this is getting rediculous.

Were you using still using the 2v steel tensioners? After my last brush with death I pulled those fuckers back off. Broke a guide and was moments from the same disaster you are looking at

im ready to buy a junk yard motor and return it to stock and buy a vette or challenger. and part out all the performance goodies.

yes on steel tensioners... what? go back to plastic ones youre saying?
dont those brake seals?

why would a follower do this?

chains are still tight. dont think it jumped time.?

gonna pull the damn MOTOR AGAIN!!

ok so for sure locking out phasers with livernois lock outs
have to buy cams now. mine are shit. livernois stage 3 blower cams any good?

should i buy ford followers and lifter again? or is trick flow stuff better!?!? tired of taking this damn motor out all the time.

any advice is welcome
 

GT500KR

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and also it ran great up until i went to pull out of security check point at work and it started doing that phase knock thing again... and then died all together..
crown... wouldnt the motor still run with a dead cylinder? it wont even fire at all... :/
 

crownaviation

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im ready to buy a junk yard motor and return it to stock and buy a vette or challenger. and part out all the performance goodies.

yes on steel tensioners... what? go back to plastic ones youre saying?
dont those brake seals?

why would a follower do this?

chains are still tight. dont think it jumped time.?

gonna pull the damn MOTOR AGAIN!!

ok so for sure locking out phasers with livernois lock outs
have to buy cams now. mine are shit. livernois stage 3 blower cams any good?

should i buy ford followers and lifter again? or is trick flow stuff better!?!? tired of taking this damn motor out all the time.

any advice is welcome

First..

Have a beer, don't think about the car for a couple days if at all possible. Re-group bro. Have someone close to you lock up all flammable materials. Seriously.

First..
What you need to do is pull the front cover. Possible that a follower just broke.. sure and there is a thread on that topic right now but not a likely scenario. Could the follower have jambed everything up in a bind.. well look at it. But that does not explain the damaged cam sensor. Likely a chain did that. And even with all the guides and tensiioner broke you can still have tension on the chain to the crank gear via valve springs... I have seen that.

When you get the cover off check the guides, tensioners etc. I would bet you gmitch's left nut that your problem stems a timing event. I would be real surprised if valves did not get bent (or at least a few of them). If the valves are bent then the guides and pistons may have taken a beating too but they need to be looked at.

Tensioners..

The plastic tensioners are not as dramatic if they fail or if the seals blow out. The real NICE thing about the plastic is when they fail they have SOME tension in them and rarely lose ALL oil pressure/tension. Normally that does not cause trouble with the chains and staying in time. The steels do not work that way.. When the steels fail, they seem break the damn guides.. lot of proof lately...

Parts..

I can hook you up some on new OEM parts.

I would replace the broken followers and any lifter under them with genuine Ford parts only. Inspect all of them tho.

For the chains/guides/tensioners etc.. The entire kit is pretty reasonable if you get close to that amount on individual parts then just buy the kit. I get a little hesitant to re-use much of that stuff once they have been thru something like this. You have a big expensive A$$ motor in that thing and some things are just cheap insurance but to each their own. New shit can fail too..

If you whacked some valves I have a low miles set that you can have if you need them. Valve guides are not that expensive to have replaced either. I have the spring compressor you can borrow if you want to do the work yourself.


When done...

Shower in holy water, rub Buddha's tummy, buy some damn rosemary beads or whatever you are into.. Get a priest to do a burnout in it or something...
 
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crownaviation

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CAn't point the finger at the 2v tensioners completely.. as I have no real deconstructive testing that I can refer to..

With that said, Ford rarely re-designs the wheel for the hell of it. Possible they were on to this when they went to this valve train and the 2v were too troublesome in this system. Again, they don't just make changes to keep their guys busy.

The 2v steel tensioners sure do seem to be a common thread with broken guides on the 3v tho... and a few lost motors as a result. A little over a year ago they were all the rage.. I am not so sure now
 
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