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Discussion in 'DIY Tech Guides' started by DiMora, Mar 3, 2013.
My local welder guy used a Miller TIG with aluminum rods.
Wow. I'm done, and this mod is EPIC.
Over 14 GALLON PER MINUTE (GPM) FLOW RATE!
That is absolutely amazing. By comparison, the Meziere "20GPM" pump with 3/4" lines flowed 3.5 GPM. The factory Bosch style pump flowed 3.0GPM.
In the Meziere's defense, it would probably do better in this current system with 1" lines...and the Stewart would also likely suffer a bit with 3/4" lines, but as set-up now, this thing is a BEAST!
Here is the rest of this crazy mod:
Icebox / degas tank back in the OEM battery tray:
Heat exchanger -16AN Fragola 90 degree exit pipe with Pusk-Lok barb end and Pegasus Racing 1" silicone line heading to intercooler:
Bumper mod to allow bumper to be installed with epic exit pipe:
Eleanor grill back on (modified to accommodate fitting):
Looks pretty good in my opinion. Subtle, yet obvious if someone knows what they are looking for. (Hey, it's a race car).
If I ever had to undo the mod I can just replace the grill and the bumper mod would never be seen (covered by grill), but I'll probably have this car until I crash it or they put me six-feet under.
Anyway, close-up (I tidied up the edge a bit after I took this pic so it's not rough looking anymore):
So...then I finished all the plumbing, and it did NOT WORK! Here is why. I tried to go:
Icebox (degas tank)->intercooler->pump->heat exchanger->icebox
TOTAL FAIL. The Stewart pump sucks so hard that it crushed the silicone hoses immediately since the restriction in the system is the intercooler. I wanted it that way so I could flow icewater from the icebox straight into the intercooler. That plan is not going to happen unless I moved the Stewart EMP pump to the firewall between the icebox and the intercooler, and there is not room to do it unless I build an icebox with the pump built-in to the icebox or closely attached to it. No big deal since this car is a 99% street car and only sees the strip 1 or 2 times a year.
The fix was to go:
Icebox (degas tank)->pump->heat exchanger->intercooler->Icebox
Stated another way, the Stewart pump now PUSHES into the restriction instead of trying to pull through it. That keeps the silicone hoses PRESSURIZED between the pump outlet and the restrictive intercooler so they don't collapse, and then the return hose out of the intercooler to the degas tank doesn't crush at all since hose diameter increases from 3/4" out of the intercooler to the 1" inlet on the icebox.
Here is a quick video of my failed plumbing:
And my re-plumbing after my failure:
And the best part of all (it took my whole family of 5 to help me make this video, LOL);
So...we know for a fact that this beast flows MORE than 14GPM. As I started pouring in the 4 gallons of water I had in the bucket I'm holding, the Stewart pump sucked faster than I could initially pour and it sucked in a gulp of air for a second, then gobbled up more water and just kept on going like a champ. In 15 seconds, this system ingested 3.5 gallons of water and a gulp of air. That is THROUGH THE ROUSH TVS INTERCOOLER that only has 3/4" inlets and outlets!
I had expected 9.3 GPM after talking with Jason at Department OF Boost (DOB), as he has done some experiments on flow rate. DOB's new heat exchanger with 1.25" inlets and outlets has been tested to flow 12.75 GPM. Needless to say I'm VERY please with over 14GPM.
That tells me that my hypothesis was true...that line diameter throughout the entire system DOES matter, and the restriction of small plumbing does have a cumulative impact. If you go to 1" lines and go with a Stewart EMP pump (which has 1" inlets and outlets) it makes a HUGE difference due to Poiseuille's Law (The Hagen - Poiseuille equation) which shows that hose diameter is the most important factor in how fluid flows through a hose.
Jason @ DOB says that If I were to go with a new DOB 3V intake manifold that has a giant Bell intercooler with 1.25" inlets and outlets that I would see ~28GPM. I cannot even imagine! That could be a nice future mod after I put in my forged 298 / 5.0 liter stroker and start getting silly with power, but for now I will be content with having just quadrupled my flow rate!
Today's ambient temp was 57 Fahrenheit during my test drive...
I have a sensor in my air inlet tube, and I was getting (@70MPH highway cruise and the car fully heated-up) a temp of 62 (5 degree rise in inlet tube over ambient is fairly typical on my car when cruising at 55-85 MPH due to the small bit of underhood heat the air filter sucks in) - and I saw fairly steady IAT's of only 100.
A quick throttle hit to get some airflow and make 10 pounds of boost resulted in an immediate drop to 96 IAT.
I also ran a toggle switch to the fans on my Steeda Triple Pass...I tried cycling them OFF and ON while cruising...I could not notice a difference on IAT's...more on that topic in a future update, but a quick glimpse into that next study is that I have ordered some coolant temp sensors and I plan on measuring temperatures with actual probes in the coolant BEFORE and AFTER the the heat exchanger to see what impact the fans make (if any at all) when cruising. The big thing is that I want to make sure that fans do not harm my intercooler performance, and real data collection with a system installed on a car is the only way to make that determination. "To fan - or not to fan - that is the question".
This is great info. I actually expected to see even cooler temps than the 100 AITs you are seeing with 57 ambient. I see so much bologna out there about others running only 30 degrees above ambient with an otherwise stock cooling system. That said, I realize there are 1000 different data points, including how much air is crossing over the IC at the point in which the temp is taken.
I look forward to seeing your fan comparisons. I have the VMP triple pass with fans. I do have a kill switch on the fans, so maybe I'll do a little playing also in the near future . . .
I don’t see how a car can run much cooler than high 90’s when the engine itself is running at 180 degreese and heating up the metal intake manifold. Of course thermal spacers, a heat blanket under the blower and other ideas (composite manifold bottom? Ceramic coating?) might help prevent engine heat from raising IAT’s via manifold heating.