Emissions Not Ready

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The SCT DeviceUpdater software is only supported on Windows platforms. You would need someone with a Windows system to install the S/W on, or send the tuner back.
 

MUSTANG16

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The SCT DeviceUpdater software is only supported on Windows platforms. You would need someone with a Windows system to install the S/W on, or send the tuner back.

Uggh … my son has a macbook pro laptop we bought him that can run microsoft software independently from mac. He was just here over break and we loaded the ATEQ quickset tool software for his '11 Subaru. So you can store the esn id's off your summer and winter tires w/ TPMS. It worked flawlessly …the dealer charges $45 for the swap. 3 tire changes and the tool is paid for.
Back on topic … I doubt any quick turn around service would be available for this.
 

GTRay

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Well, after a new emissions tune from another vendor and a call to SCT, I finally got my stang to pass emissions! Turns out, there may have been a corruption in the SCT program or the tune that was loaded in the car as my stock tune would not work as well. I tried loading the stock tune back in just to do some troubleshooting and when I plugged my scantool in, it showed no connection with key on or off and the car would not even try to start. Thought this was odd, loaded a performance tune and everything was fine. So I called SCT and explained this situation with the emissions and the stock tune not working. They walked me through reformatting my X3. After reformatting I updated the firmware and tune revisions file. Once this was done, I loaded my custom emissions tune and drove about 30 miles. Had two catalyst codes come up for bank 1 and 2 for the rear O2's. I installed non foulers on these and reset the CEL. Drove another 40 miles and the emissions tests started going to Complete! Let the car sit, drove another 40 miles the next day which set the last to tests to complete, took the car to the garage and passed! This has been a long time coming and I thought that I should share this info with anyone who may have the same problem. Sorry for the book. Be sure to back up your stock tune file and put your car back to stock before you try this!
 

s8v4o

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Here's a tip, google P1000. Here's another tip, you can turn on and off switches with a custom tune. Perhaps google P0605 and P0606 as well.

How's that Bigray?
 
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GTRay

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Here's a tip, google P1000. Here's another tip, you can turn on and off switches with a custom tune. Perhaps P0605 and P0606 as well.

If you read my original post, you would understand what the problem was. P1000 was never an issue as it never came up on any of my scanners.
 

s8v4o

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If you read my original post, you would understand what the problem was. P1000 was never an issue as it never came up on any of my scanners.

I did read your post! That tip wasn't just for you, but ALL THE PEOPLE failing. If you REALLY read my post, you would understand what I was doing. I was trying to be discreet. Did you notice the "How's that Bigray"? And no your not Bigray.

By the way, THE solution to your problem was the "tune from another vendor"!!!!! He knew what he was doing.
 
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GTRay

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Sounds good, buddy. Just wasn't really clear how you were coming across.
 

s8v4o

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Sounds good, buddy. Just wasn't really clear how you were coming across.

No biggie man. I'm just trying to help. You'd be surprised how many people are failing emissions because of ORH/X pipes and having the rear O2's turned off. Unless you modify your tune or try the non fouler tricks you'll fail. Problem is as far I know you can't do this with just a flash device. It needs to be a custom tune with modified parts as stated above. Professional tuners don't like to give out "trade secrets" hence why the solution isn't seen on the forum. Hence me trying to be discreet but that's now out the window.
 

GTRay

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Yeah, passing or failing with mods relies heavily on the tune. I do have emissions and non emissions tunes and there are certain tricks to things as I've finally come to see as of late. But there was definitely an issue with the flash device itself that reformatting fixed.
 

s8v4o

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Yeah, passing or failing with mods relies heavily on the tune. I do have emissions and non emissions tunes and there are certain tricks to things as I've finally come to see as of late. But there was definitely an issue with the flash device itself that reformatting fixed.

Full list of mods please?
 

GTRay

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C&L Street Intake, Steeda UDP's, CMDP's, JBA Long Tube Headers w/High Flow Catted H, Mac Boomtubes, Coast Alum. Driveshaft, 4.10's, Pro 5.0 Short Shifter, Roush Suspension, 18x9/18x10 wheels, Prothane Engine Mounts and a lot of other stuff that isn't emissions related.
 

bigray327

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I recommend you go to Auto Zone and use their free rental of an OBDII scanner. Or if you have an Android phone, go get a bluetooth adapter and download the app called Torque. Either one will tell you when the drive cycle is complete and you're "ready" to be inspected.

You simply must have your rear O2s turned on, and as I've mentioned elsewhere, most of peoples' "not ready" flags are because of that. Once they're turned on, THEN you have to do a drive cycle. You also have to do a new drive cycle every time you clear a code.

It's a bitch, but hang in there and you'll get it.
 

ixtlan

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The EVAP is the tough one.
You will need to follow my procedure to the letter.
Start COLD.
The speed thing is important but not the end all big thing.
Stopping at a stop sign and then going again wont kill the test.
Fast starts and hard stops will kill the test.
DONT let the fuel slosh around.
Slow rolling stops and easy acceleration are keys to getting through it.
Plan the route.
It takes me about 5 to 6 miles.
And there are two stop signs on the route I use.
Find a nice long semi straight road that is pretty level.
Hills are bad because the fuel sloshes on them.
Ambient temp must be above 40F or forget it.
Tank level is important too.
The reader is great to have as you can see when and what clears.
 

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