EPAS Terrible Shudder

[Benjamin T]

I'm hoping to purchase one next week, I'm checking with Tousley and the other usual suspects as well. Maybe steeda can start to offer the part given that they advertise "no steering shudder" on their arms (which I knew was a complete fallacy going in)

maybe 2011 GT models like me are proving to be the exception, and everyone in the industry just assumed that it was the same from 2011 to 2014?

so i am just sitting quietly here at work waiting for the phone to ring with the bad news from the dealer before breaking the piggybank for a the new rack, if there is even one available (will i have rob a truck from wherever they build these things in mexico to get one?!?)... i can already hear the sucking sound from my wallet, but there is no way i'm going back to stock arms.

 

[BMR Tech]

^ We agree. No way we are pulling our A-Arms off this car. That would defeat our purpose of running (testing) them.

There has got to be a way around this. It just needs to fall into the right hands.

 

[steveespo]

I was asked on another site to chime in about the result of installing the FRPP EPAS rack. First I run P springs, Koni Yellows, Mm camber plates and added the Steeda a arms with X11 ball joint and the Steeda bumpsteer kit. On the street I had no shudder issues so I thought I was lucky, wrong. Once on track with slicks I experienced the shudder just like Terry's video under high g loadings, didn't do it on the straights or under braking. I tried many vendors but none had any (April) and the back order was until May 15. Finally I called Rehagen and they were great, even put the rack in the mail late on a Friday so I would have time to get it installed before SVT Superfest.

Did the install and on track the car felt so much more connected and precise. No shudder at all and I love the feel. Do I like that I had to spend $950 to fix the issue? No but it was that or change back to stock rear bushings. I am very happy with the performance and recommend it if you are a serious track guy. If not stay with what you have and enjoy it.

BTW I don't hear about this issue with Boss cars and the firmer bushings so maybe a Boss rack would solve the issue for GT owners too, problem is its just as hard to find and costs the same as the Ford Racing part.
Steve

 

[Benjamin T]

thanks for posting steve.

i went to the dealer today for an update. it turns out all they did was farm it out for a wheel alignment, and said something about the toe being 10mm out and that "performance tires may cause wandering"... two people holding on to a steering wheel that is shaking so hard we couldn't stop it together is NOT wandering. this is the same dealer that did my alignment after installing my steeda arms 6 months ago, and i'm sure i haven't been off roading to get the toe out that much...

anyway, the service advisor said to give them another day. the tech who originally worked on my car is going to look at it again (because the alignment was farmed out he was not responsible for it) and see what comes up tomorrow...

i also asked the parts dept. what they sell the M3200 EPAS rack for.... and it was $1400

bonus: while i was there the 302S in the shop came out for a little sunshine:

 

[steveespo]

If you haven't call Rehagen Racing. Then Tousely Ford, then Levittown Ford. Last call Varsity Ford. These are the best Ford parts sources I know and the usually have the best combination of price/shipping/stock of hard to find parts.
Steve

 

[Benjamin T]

If you haven't call Rehagen Racing. Then Tousely Ford, then Levittown Ford. Last call Varsity Ford. These are the best Ford parts sources I know and the usually have the best combination of price/shipping/stock of hard to find parts.
Steve

steve,

do you know anything about Don Wood Ford in Ohio?

http://fordracingparts123.com/chass...ms/racing-electric-steering-rack-m-3200-epas/

they advertise the rack for $885, but i have yet to confirm whether they will ship to canada.

i was also wondering if you did the install of your rack by yourself, or did you get someone else to do it? i am wondering how much labor time is involved, not including having to align the front end again.

 

[steveespo]

Ben
I haven't dealt with Don Wood Ford, but that is a decent price.

Yes I did the install myself, on jack stands. It is not very difficult about a 7 out of 10. You need to remove the oil service under tray brace, tie rods from the spindles, disconnect the steering shaft, keep steering wheel from moving too much after disconnecting the shaft, remove motor mount nuts so you can jack the engine up and remove the stater cables for access to the bolts. Once you do this there are 2 electrical connectors and 3 bolts to remove. The bolts have 18mm heads and are difficult to remove as they are loaded with red locktite that makes them have resistance all the way out. You need a flex head ratchet and a flex head racheting box wrench and some patience. The easiest ways would be to pull the motor or drop the K-member but both of those involve more than I wanted to do so I did it the "hard" way.

Once the 3 bolts are removed the rack slides forward and down out of the car easily. New rack comes witch new inner tie rods installed, count how many turns it takes to remove each outer tie rod and thread them onto the new rack. Clean the mounting bolts and apply new red locktite, the bolts will go in much easier than they came out. Torque is 85ft/lbs. Reconnect the electrical, steering shaft, drop the motor and tighten the nuts to 55 ft/lbs, set tie rod ends and tighten the nuts to 50 ft/lbs, reinstall the oil access under tray brace and have the car aligned. You will love the feel of the new steering, effort is heavier, feel is much improved and EPAS shudder if you had it will be gone.
Steve

 

[Rehagen Racing]

kelly,

there is a lot of info in that boss302 forum thread... i was hoping you could understand it more than i can since i'm clueless.

i have a 2011 GT brembo pack car, so i must have the DR3Z-3504-CE straight from the factory, and i've got the shakes (started after recently installing steeda front LCAs, but i have a lot of other suspension parts in the car as well), so you can cross that one off the list (unless it's been updated since my car came off the assembly line).

i did not get my GT back from the dealer yesterday. it's either they are still trying or my front end is still scattered all over the shop floor. i am the only customer they have with this problem. like i mentioned before they have a customer 302S sitting in the back of the shop. if i can just get my hands on it for a few minutes with some power tools... lol.


i have tried contacting a few svt dealers and they said they couldn't even find the M3200 EPAS in inventory anywhere and i'm the first to ask about it... why do i have to be so special dammit. the only time i want to be first is at the finish line >_<

quote of what i hope to say one day:

Just an FYI, any DR3Z part would be from a 2013 model car. A 2011 car would have the BR3Z as the most up to date part from the factory.

Also, we keep the M-3200-EPAS in stock. Ford Racing is out of stock right now.

 

[JEWC_Motorsports]

Wish i could afford the rack right now but other priorities are in the way. I will keep RR in mind when it comes time to buy.

 

[Benjamin T]

Just an FYI, any DR3Z part would be from a 2013 model car. A 2011 car would have the BR3Z as the most up to date part from the factory.

Also, we keep the M-3200-EPAS in stock. Ford Racing is out of stock right now.

how many do you have? i'm dead in the water at this point and cannot commit to anything. my dealer is still holding my GT for a final signoff from the service tech that was originally assigned to work on the issue and i am also waiting for an official response from ford.

 

[Rehagen Racing]

At the moment we have 2, but our stock rotates on these fairly quickly. Worst case so far this year was we were out of stock for 5 days.

I can/will ship to Canada.

 

[BMR Tech]

^ Looks like those 2 should be sold quickly.

There you guys go. Ready to ship, can't beat that.

Thanks Bill for enabling people to have a great source for that part. We may need your assistance soon, pending our results on this shudder on our car.

 

[Benjamin T]

my worst fear right now is that i spend $1k+ for this rack, only to find out later on that someone has figured out the EPAS firmware and it is a much cheaper fix...

 

[Benjamin T]

Ben
I haven't dealt with Don Wood Ford, but that is a decent price.

Yes I did the install myself, on jack stands. It is not very difficult about a 7 out of 10. You need to remove the oil service under tray brace, tie rods from the spindles, disconnect the steering shaft, keep steering wheel from moving too much after disconnecting the shaft, remove motor mount nuts so you can jack the engine up and remove the stater cables for access to the bolts. Once you do this there are 2 electrical connectors and 3 bolts to remove. The bolts have 18mm heads and are difficult to remove as they are loaded with red locktite that makes them have resistance all the way out. You need a flex head ratchet and a flex head racheting box wrench and some patience. The easiest ways would be to pull the motor or drop the K-member but both of those involve more than I wanted to do so I did it the "hard" way.

Once the 3 bolts are removed the rack slides forward and down out of the car easily. New rack comes witch new inner tie rods installed, count how many turns it takes to remove each outer tie rod and thread them onto the new rack. Clean the mounting bolts and apply new red locktite, the bolts will go in much easier than they came out. Torque is 85ft/lbs. Reconnect the electrical, steering shaft, drop the motor and tighten the nuts to 55 ft/lbs, set tie rod ends and tighten the nuts to 50 ft/lbs, reinstall the oil access under tray brace and have the car aligned. You will love the feel of the new steering, effort is heavier, feel is much improved and EPAS shudder if you had it will be gone.
Steve

steve, do you know what shop time is to do this?

 

[BMR Tech]

my worst fear right now is that i spend $1k+ for this rack, only to find out later on that someone has figured out the EPAS firmware and it is a much cheaper fix...

I see your point and raise it this:

You bought a car that can be purchased for far less 3 years later.

Just trying to be realistic.

 

[BMR Tech]

And don't think that a "fix" will come cheaply. If the person who "fixes" it is smart, they will charge a pretty penny.

So then, you find yourself spending $500 on a fix, or you could spend $1000 on a rack, and sell the stocker for $400.....and you have a legit M3200 rack.

 

[Benjamin T]

And don't think that a "fix" will come cheaply. If the person who "fixes" it is smart, they will charge a pretty penny.

So then, you find yourself spending $500 on a fix, or you could spend $1000 on a rack, and sell the stocker for $400.....and you have a legit M3200 rack.

is my original rack even worth anything? since i know it's "nibbled"?

 

[BMR Tech]

Well, if the car is stock, and it does it....ehhh, I dunno if I would sell it.

If it is nibbling due to parts you have put on it, then sure, it is worth as much as a used factory EPAS is worth.

 

[Benjamin T]

you're right kelly. i wasn't thinking from that POV. it wasn't nibbling before the arms went in.

this stupid CVT trans in my service loaner focus is killing me... whoever designed the EPAS system must have also programmed the sport mode for this thing. who puts a rocker switch on the side of the shift knob to upshift/downshift?!? bah.

 

[Rehagen Racing]

my worst fear right now is that i spend $1k+ for this rack, only to find out later on that someone has figured out the EPAS firmware and it is a much cheaper fix...

I really would not worry about that. I don't think it will ever happen.

We work directly with Ford on a lot of things and this is not something anyone can do for us.

If it were that easy, we'd be all over it.