I would never build a serious modular motor without a forged crank. Sooner or later you're gonna want more and in the end you find out you should have done it in the first place. Who knows exactly how stout the stock crank is? But finding out definitely isn't worth an entire engine.
That's it. Forged cranks have broken, nobody has broken a stock crank. It's lighter and very strong.
I'd guess that if you are pushing enough power to break a stock crank then you had better have I beam Manley or Oliver rods and L19 rod bolts along with oringed heads.
We all have things that we think are more important with mod motors. The only thing that consistently goes are the rods. They don't usually spin bearings unless the machining is messed up, don't stretch head bolts, the crank doesn't walk, blocks don't break except for the coyote, even the stock pistons don't usually break because a stock rod will go first.
After the rods it's drivetrain issues. Specifically the input shaft of a 3650 or third gear. The driveshaft seems to hold up, axles are stout, lsd works just fine with power, even the wheel studs don't snap.
Back to the subject you are in good company because many people think that a forged crank is mandatory in any build. I've said this before, Ford uses quality components and a mod motor needs to be compared to other mod motors when doing a build because comparing it to what needs attention with say an LS motor is only going to show where GM cheaps out.
BTW I do have a forged crank fs, lol.