Help w/ Entry Level AutoX/HPDE Build

csamsh

forum member
Joined
Apr 9, 2012
Posts
1,598
Reaction score
2
Location
OKC
Yep. Per 14.2.F you are not technically legal for ST (it's not a production part but a performance catalog part). To me it looks fine for SP. That said, the LS splitter--which is legal due to being a standard part on the Boss 302 LS--is bigger. I wouldn't protest it, and if someone does, it's a dick move. Personally I'd just run it and if someone does pull the dick move, then cross that bridge then.

Not SP legal if it protrudes past bodywork or isn't a factory part
 

jayel579

forum member
Joined
Oct 15, 2010
Posts
401
Reaction score
0
Location
North Jersey
At my local AutoX, you will have people show up in rides that should be able to run circles around everyone

At local AutoX events, you'll have people show up in rides that shouldn't even be allowed to drive on the street yet that have tire trailers on the back.

Really? How much were they warped?....in thousandths.

HAHA!!!
 

Whiskey11

SCCA Autoscrosser #23 STU
Joined
Feb 24, 2012
Posts
1,644
Reaction score
2
Ditch the stock brakes. You need the larger heat sink of the bigger rotor. I warped the stock rotors just doing autocrosses, and I'm slow. :highfive:

How the hell? Do you drag the brakes every where you go and then put the parking brake on and a brick on the brake pedal when you get back? My brakes are hardly all that warm after coming in from a 70 second autocross run and while I'm not hot shit, I'm not slow either.
 

I am Legend

forum member
Joined
Oct 23, 2010
Posts
175
Reaction score
0
Location
McKinney TX
Not SP legal if it protrudes past bodywork or isn't a factory part

The way I understand the rule, "if it protrudes past the bodywork" would mean that the splitter protrudes past and leading edge of all body panels.

I cant tell from the pics if the splitter comes out part the center point of the bumper, and on the sides if it comes out past the top leading edges of the fenders.
 

TaylorGT

forum member
Joined
Jan 2, 2015
Posts
194
Reaction score
0
Location
Quincy IL
My only real update right now. Working on getting some Motul 600 and some new pads for the brakes. I'll be starting my racing this season later than usual, probably mid summer. Have a baby on the way :)

 

Pentalab

forum member
Joined
Mar 5, 2013
Posts
5,219
Reaction score
1,104
How the hell? Do you drag the brakes every where you go and then put the parking brake on and a brick on the brake pedal when you get back? My brakes are hardly all that warm after coming in from a 70 second autocross run and while I'm not hot shit, I'm not slow either.

What brake pads do you use for autocross ? If they are hardly warm after 70 secs, will the oem pads suffice ? Put another way, will DD /street pads suffice.... like Carbotech 1521 / Hawk HPS.
 

Norm Peterson

corner barstool sitter
Joined
Feb 5, 2011
Posts
3,615
Reaction score
317
Location
RIP - You will be missed
For autocross, either of those will be fine. Even if you prefer stronger initial bite, they'd still be adequate. FWIW, Sam Strano actively prefers HPS to HP+.


Norm
 

Whiskey11

SCCA Autoscrosser #23 STU
Joined
Feb 24, 2012
Posts
1,644
Reaction score
2
What brake pads do you use for autocross ? If they are hardly warm after 70 secs, will the oem pads suffice ? Put another way, will DD /street pads suffice.... like Carbotech 1521 / Hawk HPS.

I ran the stock pads since I started. JUST switched over to the Carbotech 1521's and I'll be interested to see how they do in an autocross environment. Only reason I switched the pads out was because my rear pads were damn near at the metal backing plates (1/8" of pad material left on the outside pads...) Fronts probably could go another 25,000 miles before replacement but I replaced them anyway.
 

Pentalab

forum member
Joined
Mar 5, 2013
Posts
5,219
Reaction score
1,104
I ran the stock pads since I started. JUST switched over to the Carbotech 1521's and I'll be interested to see how they do in an autocross environment. Only reason I switched the pads out was because my rear pads were damn near at the metal backing plates (1/8" of pad material left on the outside pads...) Fronts probably could go another 25,000 miles before replacement but I replaced them anyway.

I wonder why the rear pads gave up b4 the fronts? A fellow here in town has a 2012 GT manual. His rear oem pads were trashed, oem fronts were fine..just from aggressive street /dd use. He said he always left the TC on....that may have been a contributing factor.

I don't see excess rear wear on my HPS pads...(11.8" rear power slot rotors). Front HPS are fine too. However, that is on a 2010 GT, with power slot 12.4" front rotor's. I did install the cdc front brake ducts 2 yrs ago. They are only 2.5" silicone hoses fed into the cdc 14" dust shields. For dd /street use/rare autocross, the HPS pads + ducts seem to do the trick for my application. I have the TC off if it's dry out.... and on if it's wet out.

Local mustang folks who use HP+ pads, combined with slotted + cross drilled rotors all complain of abnormal rotor wear, excess dust, and excess pad wear, and slightly squealing brakes at real low speeds. Having said that, the local ricer auto cross folks swear by HP+ pads. That could be attributed to the difference in weight of the vehicles.
 
Last edited:

Boaisy

Dark Knight
Joined
Dec 11, 2013
Posts
4,194
Reaction score
7
Location
Memphis, TN
The TC will eat up the rear pads, even if it is Sport TC. Ask Terry. If you want to save the rear pads as much as possible, full off TC is the best route to go when at the Autocross.
 

claudermilk

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 12, 2012
Posts
1,840
Reaction score
1
Location
SoCal
^^^ This. Probably getting into TC a lot. As Boaisy says, turn off the nannies, they actually hinder you when running an autocross.

I have been running the 1521's in autocross and they work just fine.
 

Sky Render

Stig's Retarded Cousin
S197 Team Member
Joined
Feb 24, 2011
Posts
9,463
Reaction score
357
Location
NW of Baltimore, MD
Always, always, ALWAYS completely turn OFF AdvanceTrac when autocrossing or hot lapping!

For those with 2011+ cars, completely turn it off by holding the brake and holding the AdvanceTrac for ~7 seconds until "ADVANCETRAC OFF" appears in the display.
 

Whiskey11

SCCA Autoscrosser #23 STU
Joined
Feb 24, 2012
Posts
1,644
Reaction score
2
I wonder why the rear pads gave up b4 the fronts? A fellow here in town has a 2012 GT manual. His rear oem pads were trashed, oem fronts were fine..just from aggressive street /dd use. He said he always left the TC on....that may have been a contributing factor.

I don't see excess rear wear on my HPS pads...(11.8" rear power slot rotors). Front HPS are fine too. However, that is on a 2010 GT, with power slot 12.4" front rotor's. I did install the cdc front brake ducts 2 yrs ago. They are only 2.5" silicone hoses fed into the cdc 14" dust shields. For dd /street use/rare autocross, the HPS pads + ducts seem to do the trick for my application. I have the TC off if it's dry out.... and on if it's wet out.

Local mustang folks who use HP+ pads, combined with slotted + cross drilled rotors all complain of abnormal rotor wear, excess dust, and excess pad wear, and slightly squealing brakes at real low speeds. Having said that, the local ricer auto cross folks swear by HP+ pads. That could be attributed to the difference in weight of the vehicles.

I have had a number of non mustang autocross co drivers and one of them, who I ran almost a full year with kept forgetting to turn TCS off. Combined with 20k miles of not knowing better and I'm sure the rear pads got a workout.

The other thing is worn tlok differentials will destroy the outer most pads because c-clips and more axle end play. That should be minimized with the Torsen.
 

Pentalab

forum member
Joined
Mar 5, 2013
Posts
5,219
Reaction score
1,104
Always, always, ALWAYS completely turn OFF AdvanceTrac when autocrossing or hot lapping!

For those with 2011+ cars, completely turn it off by holding the brake and holding the AdvanceTrac for ~7 seconds until "ADVANCETRAC OFF" appears in the display.

That also applies to the 2010 cars..which is the 1st year they came out with it. Good point though. I rarely do, most of the time just put it into sport mode....which apparently is not enough. Last thing you need is the nannies grabbing a handful of rear brake(s).
 

Pentalab

forum member
Joined
Mar 5, 2013
Posts
5,219
Reaction score
1,104
The other thing is worn tlok differentials will destroy the outer most pads because c-clips and more axle end play. That should be minimized with the Torsen.

Now this I didn't know. Good info. I replaced the oem Tlok with an eaton tru-trac.... + WL watts link, both on the same day.

I can't see the point of endless oem Tlok rebuilds...so tossed it.
 

white86hatch

forum member
Joined
Mar 18, 2013
Posts
182
Reaction score
0
18x10 drifts are super cheap. And they're lighter than 07-09 gt500 wheels. Just saying.
 

Latest posts

Support us!

Support Us - Become A Supporting Member Today!

Click Here For Details

Sponsor Links

Banner image
Back
Top