Higher Mileage Owners

KatoS197

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To my higher mileage guys: I recently picked up this '08 GT for a steal (I work at a Ford Dealership), and it was very well taken care of. One owner, etc. However with 111K on the clock, I'm beginning to think about what parts I want/should replace in the near future.

There's a 70% chance the car will never see F/I, but a set of cams is pretty likely. So I've considering getting the Camshaft Drive kit to replace all of the factory supporting components when I put the cams in.

What are some other things to be concious of? Thanks for the feed back, guys.
 

skwerl

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Get the timing kit with new phasers when you do the cams. The entire kit costs less than buying two phasers individually.

Check for water intrusion on the SJB. I'd pull the cowling and reseal the body seams anyway since it seems the best way to keep them from leaking is to keep them in a garage all the time. My Bullitt was never left outside but it would still act up almost every time I washed it.

You can spend a small fortune getting the suspension up to snuff. Depends on how hard you plan on driving it, for many the stock crap is fine for puttering to the grocery store and back. But at 111K miles I'd be looking at a full suspension revamp including shocks, struts, tie rod ends, sway bar bushings, rear upper and lower control arms, etc.
 

SStang

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If you don't mind, what did you pay for it?

Thanks.
 

eighty6gt

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Friend bought a S197 with about 300,000 miles. Nothing replaced except the battery, IIRC.

See if Justin @ vmp has a good deal on a Roush 2.3 TVS. Put 9 psi into it and leave the rest alone.

If you do decide to do any suspension work, contact Steve @ Tasca. Get all OEM parts. This is especially important for things like sway bar end links, struts, strut mounts.
 

KatoS197

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Get the timing kit with new phasers when you do the cams. The entire kit costs less than buying two phasers individually.

Check for water intrusion on the SJB. I'd pull the cowling and reseal the body seams anyway since it seems the best way to keep them from leaking is to keep them in a garage all the time. My Bullitt was never left outside but it would still act up almost every time I washed it.

You can spend a small fortune getting the suspension up to snuff. Depends on how hard you plan on driving it, for many the stock crap is fine for puttering to the grocery store and back. But at 111K miles I'd be looking at a full suspension revamp including shocks, struts, tie rod ends, sway bar bushings, rear upper and lower control arms, etc.

Pardon my ignorance, but what is the "SJB"?

I've already got the rear UCA and LCA's on order.
 

KatoS197

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Friend bought a S197 with about 300,000 miles. Nothing replaced except the battery, IIRC.

See if Justin @ vmp has a good deal on a Roush 2.3 TVS. Put 9 psi into it and leave the rest alone.

If you do decide to do any suspension work, contact Steve @ Tasca. Get all OEM parts. This is especially important for things like sway bar end links, struts, strut mounts.

What kind of power is he making? I would be pretty nervous about running F/I on Stock Internals with that kind of mileage.

Thanks for the contact for the suspension. I'll definitely hit him up.
 

skwerl

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SJB is the Smart Junction Box, your electrical distribution box behind the kick panel in the passenger side footwell. Several threads on here about water intrusion and how to fix it. Basically the air cowl under the windshield wiper leaks along the seams and once water hits the SJB it can cause all sorts of unusual electrical problems. Happens to the large majority of Mustangs but it's an easy fix if you catch it before the SJB gets fried.
 

KatoS197

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SJB is the Smart Junction Box, your electrical distribution box behind the kick panel in the passenger side footwell. Several threads on here about water intrusion and how to fix it. Basically the air cowl under the windshield wiper leaks along the seams and once water hits the SJB it can cause all sorts of unusual electrical problems. Happens to the large majority of Mustangs but it's an easy fix if you catch it before the SJB gets fried.


Ahhhh gotcha. Luckily I haven't had that problem. Been through a couple of really bad storms already and no issues.....yet. But I'll check. Thanks! :thumb:
 

weather man

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Basically flush and replace every fluid on the car. Check the diff lock out. You then have a zero point for all going forward. I would back flush the radiator and heater core when those fluids are changed. Definitely new shocks and struts. All rubber bushings on sway bars. The ford racing kit that lowers 1" is a good way to improve stance and replace a lot of stuff that needs replacing.
 

avinaj80

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Definitely do the cam drive kit when you do your cams. I did mine at about 120k due to a rattle I had (eitehr the phaser or tensioner). Car was like brand new after. Then I threw hot rods in around 130k. Car is still beast.

I would look into bushings and basic suspension components. Definitely do what the fellas above have stated also. These are good cars. If taken care of, they will go forever.
 

KatoS197

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Basically flush and replace every fluid on the car. Check the diff lock out. You then have a zero point for all going forward. I would back flush the radiator and heater core when those fluids are changed. Definitely new shocks and struts. All rubber bushings on sway bars. The ford racing kit that lowers 1" is a good way to improve stance and replace a lot of stuff that needs replacing.

I had a complete fluid flush done when I bought the car. Didn't think about the diff lock out or the struts. I had planned on new shocks, but I'll look into shock/strut kits that will compliment the new springs. Thanks!
 

KatoS197

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Definitely do the cam drive kit when you do your cams. I did mine at about 120k due to a rattle I had (eitehr the phaser or tensioner). Car was like brand new after. Then I threw hot rods in around 130k. Car is still beast.

I would look into bushings and basic suspension components. Definitely do what the fellas above have stated also. These are good cars. If taken care of, they will go forever.

Good to hear on that kit. I think it's a must either way. Thanks!
 

TGR96

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Friend bought a S197 with about 300,000 miles. Nothing replaced except the battery, IIRC.

:shock: :omfg: That's awesome!

Basically flush and replace every fluid on the car. Check the diff lock out. You then have a zero point for all going forward. I would back flush the radiator and heater core when those fluids are changed. Definitely new shocks and struts. All rubber bushings on sway bars. The ford racing kit that lowers 1" is a good way to improve stance and replace a lot of stuff that needs replacing.

This.

And congrats OP on the new ride.
 

claudermilk

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Friend bought a S197 with about 300,000 miles. Nothing replaced except the battery, IIRC.
Wow. That's a testament to the marketing tagline "Built Ford tough"...yeah that's for the trucks, but sure seems to apply here.
 

eighty6gt

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Bagged up and down the New Jersey freeways for years. I think my buddy got it for damn near free. He's going to use it as an open track car.
 

Sky Render

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I know Ford changed some things on the later S197s. Is the water intrusion problem still existent on the '10+?
 

skwerl

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I know Ford changed some things on the later S197s. Is the water intrusion problem still existent on the '10+?

My 14 has a plastic or vinyl sheet folded over the SJB and it was held in place with a piece of tape. I had to remove the tape to get to the SJB in order to run power to my radar detector. Too much trouble to actually make the car water tight I guess.
 

GallopingFord

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These cars will run very well with high mileage. I took in a 05 GT with 212K miles on it a couple months ago and it ran fine except for the balljoints were worn out.
 

05gtowner

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I am at 125K and the only thing I would consider doing to mine is the timing components just because they can wear after almost ten years and 100K+ miles.
 

07TGGT

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High miles on modern cars is not 100,000 miles LMAO. High miles is more like 300K and over. Threads like this make me laugh.
 

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