How safe is Nitrous on a stock GT?

[07 procharger]

 

[Matt D]

Thats the good shiat right there!

 

[08gt4u]

If your nitrous A/F mixture is rich you would lower the size of the fuel jet. For the avg street nitrous (up to 150hp) user I suggest tuning to 11.8 or so on a wideband.

As a side note, rich is not "safe"...the correct A/F ratio is "safe"






I am running an intank 255lph pump with a second inline 255lph pump feeding through an Aeromotive EFI regulator set to 45psi. The nitrous system feeds off of a 1 gal cell that has its own 255lph pump and regulator set currently at 11.5psi.

To adjust nitrous A/F ratio I either change the fuel jet or adjust the flowing fuel pressure of the low pressure fuel system.

before i headed out to dyno tune the nitrous i spoke to brenspeed and they recomended to keep the a/f between 10.5 and 11.0 on the bottle.currently im at 11.1 at wot.i try going from 34 to 32 on the fuel and it tipped at 11.5 a/f and gain 1rwhp and 2rwtq.didnt think it was worth it so i went back to the 34.

 

[07 procharger]

i run my 100 shot at 11.6 to 1.

 

[Bkid]

Mine is at 11.7 thats are far as you want to go. Doug pulls 2 degrees for every 50.

 

[chopstix]

before i headed out to dyno tune the nitrous i spoke to brenspeed and they recomended to keep the a/f between 10.5 and 11.0 on the bottle.currently im at 11.1 at wot.i try going from 34 to 32 on the fuel and it tipped at 11.5 a/f and gain 1rwhp and 2rwtq.didnt think it was worth it so i went back to the 34.

That is way to rich....being rich can hurt a motor just like being lean.

If you have too much unburnt fuel left in the cylinder it can linger on the cylinder walls. Then as the pistons move up/down this unburnt fuel can be trapped inside the ring lands. If this fuel happens to ignite you can seperate the ring lands from the piston. I hope you guys can see why this is bad.

If 12.8 to 13.0 is an optimum A/F ratio for NA motors, and nitrous in a very strict interpertation is also naturally aspirated then why would you need to be 2 1/2 points richer. This is costing you power as you are not burning the fuel you are injecting into the cylinder. It is possible to run nitrous in the same 12.8-13.0 A/F range if the rest of your tune-up is spot on. Now this is geered more to the hard-core user as they are looking for everybit of power they can get out of their application.

I suggest running a street application at 11.8. This is to add a little bit of lee way for their "tune" to be outside ideal parameters. This cools the combustion chamber temperatures and provides a little bit of detonation/preiginition insurance, as many people are running the wrong heat range plug as well as the timing being to far advanced.

 

[chopstix]

If I am looking at this correctly, the plates are not "plumbed" for nitrous, but are pre-drilled and tapped to accept nozzles for a direct port

 

[07 procharger]

good catch...he asked for a better pic of them because the pics on steedas website are poo.

 

[matt texass]

If I am looking at this correctly, the plates are not "plumbed" for nitrous, but are pre-drilled and tapped to accept nozzles for a direct port

Yup.

 

[07 procharger]

 

[05stroker]

Yea ! Who makes that shit ?

 

[Matt D]

wow, that looks insane! I know what im going to set up when im ready to run numbers

 

[05stroker]

wow, that looks insane! I know what im going to set up when im ready to run numbers

Shit is real! Right !

 

[Lazy Racer]

If your nitrous A/F mixture is rich you would lower the size of the fuel jet. For the avg street nitrous (up to 150hp) user I suggest tuning to 11.8 or so on a wideband.

As a side note, rich is not "safe"...the correct A/F ratio is "safe"

Yeah, understood on rich/lean; thanks for the feedback on the n20/fuel 'tuning'. I can get to a rolling road for an afr test so I shall see what the current jetting works out at.

 

[chopstix]

wow, that looks insane! I know what im going to set up when im ready to run numbers

looks like a tuning nightmare to me....but is a great idea.

Imagine doing jet changes on that setup and you will see what I mean.

 

[Matt D]

looks like a tuning nightmare to me....but is a great idea.

Imagine doing jet changes on that setup and you will see what I mean.

never thought of that?

 

[chopstix]

I would suggest mounting the solenids and distribution blocks on top of the intake....machining the fitting at the distribution block to hold the jets then hard line from the block to the nozzles. You would need to run larger orifice jets in the nozzles to seal the hard line to the nozzle. The only down side is this would increase the distance from the block to the nozzles and would "soften" the hit, and could even create a slight delay between solenoids opening and the mixture making it to the cylinder.

 

[07 procharger]

ya its a bit of work, but the payoff is a nice stealthy install in the end.

 

[Mustangfreak]

ya its a bit of work, but the payoff is a nice stealthy install in the end.

Where did you get all the parts and how much did it cost?

 

[chopstix]

ya its a bit of work, but the payoff is a nice stealthy install in the end.

Yep....