How to diagnose rod knock vs valve train knock?? Sigh, tired of that car...

c-ro

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my lock outs will be here tomorrow I let you know how it goes
 

Corpo

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Tensioner bolt backed out. Possibly sheared the head off it. Pics to follow.
 
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crownaviation

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Broke dafuk down
Why did you choose to use a stud? Looks like you are using the steel 2v tensioners..

OEM is a tty and torque to 18 ft-lbs. Not sure what a nut and stud combo would be or if ARP even sells a fastner for those specifically. I cringe when I think of a nut falling thru all the motor..
 

Corpo

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Before I had a stock tensioner bolt actually shear off. I put new heads and cams on and reused my plastic tensioner. New bolt. After a summer one sheared.

So when I replaced it with the new engine I wanted something stronger. I couldn't find a stronger bolt, so I went stud.

And in both cases I have a nut/bolt head fall through the engine :(

On the bright side the stud is still holding the tensioner straight.
 

Corpo

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Nope and nope. 127600's and heavy springs. Autox.. So the on and off the throttle probably doesn't help.
 

Paps

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Just boroscoped cyl #6-7-8
Here is #6 but #7 looks the same
1fde06b3ebc80d91abeb5238356d2c19_zpsd08f1f39.jpg


Cyl #8
f1b72bfff305e34589ed95b2e98dafdb_zps12a4a5db.jpg


Does #8 look like a PTV contact?

No broken followers, so bent valve? And my noise is coming from it?

Note: i'm not the first owner, and that piston looks new to me compared to others
 
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avinaj80

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Just boroscoped cyl #6-7-8
Here is #6 but #7 looks the same
1fde06b3ebc80d91abeb5238356d2c19_zpsd08f1f39.jpg


Cyl #8
f1b72bfff305e34589ed95b2e98dafdb_zps12a4a5db.jpg


Does #8 look like a PTV contact?

No broken followers, so bent valve? And my noise is coming from it?

Note: i'm not the first owner, and that piston looks new to me compared to others

Run a leak down test. that would be the best way to find out...
 

dysan

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Mine made noises late last year and when I tore the engine down I found that the bolts the tensioner arms pivot on had both snapped..thank god I had the locking metal 2v tensioners otherwise it would probably have jumped timing.

If I was you I would pull the front cover and take a real good look.
 

Corpo

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Mine made noises late last year and when I tore the engine down I found that the bolts the tensioner arms pivot on had both snapped..thank god I had the locking metal 2v tensioners otherwise it would probably have jumped timing.

If I was you I would pull the front cover and take a real good look.

+1

I'm just gonna leave this here...

http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=113270
 

Paps

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Mine made noises late last year and when I tore the engine down I found that the bolts the tensioner arms pivot on had both snapped..thank god I had the locking metal 2v tensioners otherwise it would probably have jumped timing.

If I was you I would pull the front cover and take a real good look.
Yeah next step

Thanks! I already checked every single threads about ticking/knock noise!
 

Corpo

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Yeah next step


Thanks! I already checked every single threads about ticking/knock noise!

I know you have bud. Just putting emphasis on the issue dysan was describing.

I guess me and dysan each have big cams though too.
 

dysan

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I know you have bud. Just putting emphasis on the issue dysan was describing.

I guess me and dysan each have big cams though too.

Nah..I have baby cams....127300's with the mild Comp 26113 springs. The thing with me is I race my car every week and am on the 2-step every round so mine takes a beating from that. My current engine shouldn't have that issue though since the iron block I have uses solid pressed in pins for the tensioner arms so they don't have a sharp edge to break like the ones in the aluminum block.

If you have the plastic tensioners be sure to check the gaskets on them to make sure they haven't blown out like a lot of people have reported.
 

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