how to upgrade frpp clutch line

[shanec]

Got my frpp clutch line. What do I need to know to replace my stocker with this line?

Isn't there just a clip holding the stocker on at the master cylinder end and at the transmission? Just pop these clips, insert new line, replace clips?

How do I manage the fluid? Do I have to drain the master cylinder...and is there a drain hole for that? Or is the drain hole also referred to as the clutch line attachment point LOL..

What's the bleeding process? Scaning this forum, many have said there's really no bleeding. Just jack up the front driver side of the car, pump the clutch a lot, and in minutes or overnight it bleeds itself? Are my brakes going to be unaffected by draining and refilling the master cylinder?

 

[1fastpony]

Got my frpp clutch line. What do I need to know to replace my stocker with this line?

Isn't there just a clip holding the stocker on at the master cylinder end and at the transmission? Just pop these clips, insert new line, replace clips?
Yes against the fire wall. Use small needle noise, small flat head screw driver, or dental pick. Remove the tranny side line first and pull the line up topside to prevent additional fluid from draining.

How do I manage the fluid? Do I have to drain the master cylinder...and is there a drain hole for that? Or is the drain hole also referred to as the clutch line attachment point LOL..
No not really. Once you remove the top connection away from the fire wall use something to prevent fluid from draining out...wood plug.
What's the bleeding process? Scaning this forum, many have said there's really no bleeding. Just jack up the front driver side of the car, pump the clutch a lot, and in minutes or overnight it bleeds itself? Are my brakes going to be unaffected by draining and refilling the master cylinder?

No the brake lines are not effected but once you bleed all is well. Jack up the drivers side like you inidcated. Start pumping the clucth slowly all the way out and in a few cycles 5-10 times then work the bottom2-3 inches slowly back in forth 5-10 times then make a few full cycles. Do this for ~5 minutes or so then make a few fast cycles. Repeat untill you fill the bottom 3-4 inches of the peddle start to become firm and then make a few full cycles and you will fill the clutch come up enuff to drive. Go take it for a 5-10 minute drive around town and all should be good.

I Edited in red.
Should be good to go. Sounds like you have a good idea. Weird thing is after I did mine the brakes appeared to be firmer and stop quicker.

 

[shanec]

Sounds like I'm all set.

Wood plug? I need to go find a stick in my yard that's about the right size? LOL...

Still unsure about that spewing part.

Maybe I will:

1) detach from tranny, pull the stock line up top so no more leaks.

2) put new line into the tranny

3) Really quickly, pull old line of firewall and quickly stuff new line into fire wall

4) whipe up mess, top off fluid, do the bleeding

 

[RRRoamer]

Close, but shouldn't "wipe up mess" be the very LAST thing on the todo list? After drinking a bear and possibly even taking a nap?

 

[69Mach1-409]

You forgot the throw misc tool across garage while cussing at the bolt that just won't break loose didn't you?

 

[cobrafast1]

Suggestion:

Take a small plastic bag and tape it to the bottom end after you disconnect it. With the vacuum pressure above, not much will leak out, initially. But when you take the top end off, then the bag will catch what's in the pipe.

Good Luck.

 

[1SickRedfire]

Those little yellow plastic ear plugs that shooters wear work perfectly..slip right in keeps any dirt/moisture out till you get the new line installed

 

[RRRoamer]

Those little yellow plastic ear plugs that shooters wear work perfectly..slip right in keeps any dirt/moisture out till you get the new line installed

Now that is a FINE idea! I hadn't even though of them before, but I can see where they WOULD work perfectly.

 

[shanec]

Digging into this now. Holy #*$^*& that space next to the firewall is tight!

 

[shanec]

No freakin way. I thought the space by the firewall was tight. Until I looked under the trans. I literally can't put a finger on the clip that needs to come off. And if I got it off I wouldn't be able to pry the old fitting off or put the one in.

Has anyone actually done this without pulling the trans? I see no way in hell it could be done.

 

[Mustang30212]

Loosen the trans crossmember bolts and let the tranny down a bit. You don't have to take the bolts out all the way...but if you have a transmission jack or something similer....the lower you can go on the tranny the more clearence you have getting the line/fitting out.

RH

 

[RRRoamer]

No freakin way. I thought the space by the firewall was tight. Until I looked under the trans. I literally can't put a finger on the clip that needs to come off. And if I got it off I wouldn't be able to pry the old fitting off or put the one in.

Has anyone actually done this without pulling the trans? I see no way in hell it could be done.

I was reading through the manual today on this. It points out to reinstall the line BEFORE bolting up the tranny.

Now I understand why!

 

[Skarkull]

Close, but shouldn't "wipe up mess" be the very LAST thing on the todo list? After drinking a bear and possibly even taking a nap?

Good luck with that one! Is that like a donkey show?

 

[RRRoamer]

Good luck with that one! Is that like a donkey show?

LOL

That probably WOULD piss off the BEAR!

You know what I meant you bastich!

 

[shanec]

So is this black elbow supposed to come off the transmission? Before removing the little clip that holds the clutch line on?

Is it strange that we have this clip to hold the line on to the elbow so the line doesn't pop off with hydraulic pressure - while the plastic elbow just slides on and off the transmission?

 

[1fastpony]

That black elbo is not needed. The car already has one on the bell housing all you have to do is pull that clip back half way not all the way off, just untill you hear or feel it snap one time and then the old palstic line will pop out. Now getting to it is tuff,yes. Lower the tranny just a bit like mentioned. If you have big hands it is a pain in the arse...its like wrestling a 700lb Silver Back Gorilla. If one ever does a tranny/clutch JOB IT IS A MUST MOD AS WELL AS THE HTOB/SLAVE since it is so easy that way when the tranny is out.

I have done it both ways. If you have acces to a lift, a buddy that works at a shop it is way easier to install but if you lower the tranny an inch or two you would be suprised of how much that helps.

If you ever had issues with the tranny not shifting or binding at WOT you will really appreciate the mod after installed and all will be good.

 

[shanec]

Yeah, knew the car had one. I was questioning whether or not I need to take the elbow off to get the clutch line out. Maybe not.

If that clip pops all the way out, I think I'd have to remove the elbow. Don't see getting in that tight space to put it back in there.

Will give this another shot tonight with a lowered trans. Fortuantely, I've done the lowering once before when I put in my MGW shifter. So I can do this. Somebody else suggested lowering the k-member too. Fell less comfortable with that while I'm under the car.

 

[1fastpony]

Yeah, knew the car had one. I was questioning whether or not I need to take the elbow off to get the clutch line out. Maybe not.
If you are asking whether you need to remove the elbow in the picture before installing the new line it would be yes, not needed there is one on the car already. If you are questioning whether to remove the one on the car, that is no. Leave it attached to the side of the bell housing. The other disconnect point is inside the bellhousing so you don't want to mess with it, do ya? Unless..you want to remove the tranny.
If that clip pops all the way out, I think I'd have to remove the elbow. Don't see getting in that tight space to put it back in there.
No need to remove the elbow. Be carefull if you pop the clip all the way off they have a tendancy to do a disapearing act. Do not remove the elbow from bellhousing the new clutch line is removed from the top of it. The instrauition should say "ALL YOU ARE USING IS THE NEW SS LINE FORGET ABOUT THE ELBOW THAT CAME WITH THE KIT" if tranny not removed.

Will give this another shot tonight with a lowered trans. Fortuantely, I've done the lowering once before when I put in my MGW shifter. So I can do this. Somebody else suggested lowering the k-member too. Fell less comfortable with that while I'm under the car.

Marked up pic for guidance.

 

[fiverivers]

How does this clutch line better than the stock one and do you have the part number for this part.

thanks

 

[shanec]

Just google FRPP steel clutch line.

The stock clutch line is made of plastic. Aftermarket high performance clutches put more hydraulic pressure on this line. That combined with heat can make the plastic clutch baloon over time. This affects clutch performance. And if the plastic line cracks and causes leaking, you've got more problems.

So I'm putting this on for prevention, as I have an aftermarket clutch. Also have longtube headers which contributes more heat in that area.

I paid $179 for this part from CJ Pony Parts. Some shop (JVC? forget the name) makes a steel braided line in-house that they can sell for much cheaper. I have more confidence in the FRPP part over a shop-made part.