IMSM Race 4 Results - i need help as well!

[Shaffe]

well today was not a good race day me.

qualified 4th out 5 in my class and got knocked out in the first round.

Times are as follows.

qualifying

R/T .376
60' 2.22
330' 5.94
1/8 8.96
MPH 81.35
1000' 11.57
1/4 13.77
MPH 101.86

R/T -.097
60' 2.25
330' 5.98
1/8 8.99
MPH 81.19
1000' 11.59
1/4 13.80
MPH 101.84

Eliminations

R/T .305
60' 2.21
330' 5.95
1/8 8.97
MPH 81.48
1000' 11.77
1/4 13.77
MPH 100.37

yea the reaction times can still use some work. but my 60's are killing me. the drag radials are hooking for the most part. they dont dead hook, they spin very slightly then grab. the problem is i was getting these same 60's with my street tires for the most part. but they were very inconsistant. teh DRs have helped me be much more consistant, but i think theres more to be had with the 60'.

 

[US-1]

Need to know the gear ratio, starting line rpm leave, and suspension setup.

 

[Shaffe]

Bone Stock Suspension
Flashing converter off idle
Factory 3.31 gears

 

[US-1]

First........you need to leave at about 1500 rpm. Second.....are you deep staging?

 

[Shaffe]

yes i am deep staging.

 

[US-1]

By deep staging you are going to see very slow 60' times. You are essentially reducing the distance from the point where you break the beam that starts the clocks and the 60' beam. You do not have the "rolling start" that you would have if you were shallow staging. No way around that so don't worry about it.

What is killing you is the reaction times. You need to practice with different leave rpm's. The car will react differently to leaving at 1000 rpm, 1500 rpm, 1800 rpm, etc. Give it some testing time and you should be able to get the R/T's down considerably. Also, work on rolling into the same spot every time. With your combination you should not be spinning the d/r's at all. Tire pressure should be 18 psi or so.

As far as equipment.....I'd suggest lower control arms with relocation brackets. Then a converter. In that order.

 

[Shaffe]

ill try launching at a higher RPM at the next race. also ill see what one of my sponsors can do for some LCAs thanks for the help SD

 

[US-1]

ill try launching at a higher RPM at the next race.

That is what Test/Tune days are for. Trying to test during time trials then concentrate on the race is not recommended. Go test before the race so that you have a set game plan ready when the next race rolls around.

 

[duece05]

I am speaking from experience here, unless you are cutting .07 or better R/T you can just about forget winning. I would best most of the guys you are racing are there already. It cost me several hundred $$$'s before I started doing exactly what SD said. SEAT TIME is the only thing that will get your reaction time down.

Since you are an auto and that is what I have, I stage shallow and try to time it to when the 3rd yellow light comes on, my foot is on the floor at the same time. Thy this and you will see your R/T drop. If you read light don't worry, remember you're at T&T. This is not something to try on "race day"!

 

[US-1]

He's on a Pro Tree.

 

[Shaffe]

That is what Test/Tune days are for. Trying to test during time trials then concentrate on the race is not recommended. Go test before the race so that you have a set game plan ready when the next race rolls around.

Yeah I guess that's a better plan lol. Wont have any time to test before the next race though. Next race is on the 11th and most likely going to be out of town for the 4th. so I'll try to get to a Test N Tune after this race.

I am speaking from experience here, unless you are cutting .07 or better R/T you can just about forget winning. I would best most of the guys you are racing are there already. It cost me several hundred $$$'s before I started doing exactly what SD said. SEAT TIME is the only thing that will get your reaction time down.

Since you are an auto and that is what I have, I stage shallow and try to time it to when the 3rd yellow light comes on, my foot is on the floor at the same time. Thy this and you will see your R/T drop. If you read light don't worry, remember you're at T&T. This is not something to try on "race day"!

He's on a Pro Tree.

yep pro .400 tree. its a little tough, but lucky for me i would say 99% of the people in my class are new to the pro tree this year as well so every one's lights are pretty bad. I still need way more seat time in this car though. I could cut savage lights in the old mustang, but this one I still havent figured out.

LCA's are ordered

 

[jroc07gt]

the m&hs are a tall dr for 3.31s. how good of a burn out are you doing? imo some gear would get your 60's down. also track prep could have a lot to do with it. do roll through the water box or go around to back into it?

 

[Shaffe]

go around and back into it then pull out of it.

i then put the car in 1 get the wheels spinning and then thow it into 2 until i see a little bit of smoke then i let off the break ease out of the throttle. burnout is usually between 8-10 seconds. i probably do need to bring the rpms up more.

 

[jroc07gt]

go around and back into it then pull out of it.

i then put the car in 1 get the wheels spinning and then thow it into 2 until i see a little bit of smoke then i let off the break ease out of the throttle. burnout is usually between 8-10 seconds. i probably do need to bring the rpms up more.

ok your burnout sounds good enough. you have the m&h's on your 18s? the 18" m&h's are 28" tall and thats a pretty tall drag radial for 3.31s. people usually run a 26" dr for 4.10s and under.

 

[Shaffe]

ive got the M&H s on 17" bullitts

 

[jroc07gt]

the 17" m&h are still 28" tall.