DeepimpactGTCS
Junior Member
Technology ruined all this! I'm pissed!
What am I doing wrong???
- Thread starter Grey Ghost
- Start date
Boaisy
Dark Knight
Maybe the iPad is sloshed.
Grey Ghost
Member
Ok, it's obvious that traction issues are the biggest problems with my times, so here's my next set of questions.
I want to acheive some good times, anywhere between a 12.6 to 12.8 on street tires before I do the obvious mod of using slicks or radials to get me even better times. Before I do that, what should or would I need to do to acheive that now given my current mods?
Thoughts?
I want to acheive some good times, anywhere between a 12.6 to 12.8 on street tires before I do the obvious mod of using slicks or radials to get me even better times. Before I do that, what should or would I need to do to acheive that now given my current mods?
- add LCAs?
- add a better shifter?
- use a specific kind of street tire?
- launching at a specific RPM?
- launch from 1st or 2nd?
- setting my street tires to a specific PSI?
- only run on certain temperature days? is there a good range?
- avoid the water box or not?
- Add another mod I'm nothing thinking of???
Thoughts?
LCA's
Normally, we swap LCA's to get a better dsign and bushing, which is intended to stop LCA flex and wheel hop. If you don't have wheel hop, I doubt LCA's will help your ET while at factory power levels.
Shifter
A good short-throw shifter always helps. Keeping it floored between gears may do you some good too. The engine management system kills power at the rev limiter, so the power is dampened a bit. This makes it so you are less prone to spin on the gear shift and the computer can recover from bouncing of the rev limiter faster that you can work the gas pedal.
Specific kind of street tire
A drag radial is a street tire. I put 67,000 miles on my 2007 Mustang in 3 years with nothing but DR's on it. The next best thing is going to be an extreme performance summer time tire, which won't help at the drag strip.
RPM
This is trial and error. It is going to change day-to-day and track by track. Even the same track later that day will yield different results. I would try between 3k and 4k on a DR and go up from there. On a regular street tire, I wouldn't go more than 1,500-2k. Drive it like you're coming out from a traffic red light hard.
Gear
Don't leave from second. You will be slower and your clutch will hate you for it.
PSI
On a traditional street tire, the Ford's recommend tire pressure would be the best. The recommend pressure is going to give you the flattest footprint and allow the tire to perform the best.
Water Box
Unless you have racing tires designed for heat... stay out of the water and do not do a burnout. Traditional street tires not made for racing will sweat oil that is used in making the tire. This will make the tire more slick for the first mile or so that you drive it, leading to spinning off the line and between gears easier.
Other Mods
Depends on your goals. If its a daily driver, you can do things like put a mid grade performance clutch system and a SS clutch line for better and more responsive pedal work. Full rear UCA/LCA replacement. Reduce unsprung and rotating mass. 10.5 or 11" wide tire. Taller tires depending on your gears.
If its not a DD, you can get really radical... but still need to know the goal and restrictions you want to adhere to.
Normally, we swap LCA's to get a better dsign and bushing, which is intended to stop LCA flex and wheel hop. If you don't have wheel hop, I doubt LCA's will help your ET while at factory power levels.
Shifter
A good short-throw shifter always helps. Keeping it floored between gears may do you some good too. The engine management system kills power at the rev limiter, so the power is dampened a bit. This makes it so you are less prone to spin on the gear shift and the computer can recover from bouncing of the rev limiter faster that you can work the gas pedal.
Specific kind of street tire
A drag radial is a street tire. I put 67,000 miles on my 2007 Mustang in 3 years with nothing but DR's on it. The next best thing is going to be an extreme performance summer time tire, which won't help at the drag strip.
RPM
This is trial and error. It is going to change day-to-day and track by track. Even the same track later that day will yield different results. I would try between 3k and 4k on a DR and go up from there. On a regular street tire, I wouldn't go more than 1,500-2k. Drive it like you're coming out from a traffic red light hard.
Gear
Don't leave from second. You will be slower and your clutch will hate you for it.
PSI
On a traditional street tire, the Ford's recommend tire pressure would be the best. The recommend pressure is going to give you the flattest footprint and allow the tire to perform the best.
Water Box
Unless you have racing tires designed for heat... stay out of the water and do not do a burnout. Traditional street tires not made for racing will sweat oil that is used in making the tire. This will make the tire more slick for the first mile or so that you drive it, leading to spinning off the line and between gears easier.
Other Mods
Depends on your goals. If its a daily driver, you can do things like put a mid grade performance clutch system and a SS clutch line for better and more responsive pedal work. Full rear UCA/LCA replacement. Reduce unsprung and rotating mass. 10.5 or 11" wide tire. Taller tires depending on your gears.
If its not a DD, you can get really radical... but still need to know the goal and restrictions you want to adhere to.
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garner
Senior Member
Are you spinning a lot down the track or having issues shifting? Compared to one of my runs, you went from a tenth behind at 60 ft, to 2 tenths behind at 330 and 1/8, then ended up 3 tenths behind but similar mph
Only mod was Offroad h and amr 19" wheels. Also an auto car
cbass
Senior Member
The problem is your obama tune. I went 12.9 stock with 285 goodyear supercars (I'm fat, and I can't drive well).
Then I did cat deletes, intake, 305 nittos, and a bama tune. 12.6 I was a little let down.
Then I went 3 weeks later with almost identical conditions, and cut a 12.2
Tune made all the difference. Use a competent company for tunes. The #8 warranty sounds cool and all, but they have some whack ignition and fuel settings in the tunes I got from them.
Then I did cat deletes, intake, 305 nittos, and a bama tune. 12.6 I was a little let down.
Then I went 3 weeks later with almost identical conditions, and cut a 12.2
Tune made all the difference. Use a competent company for tunes. The #8 warranty sounds cool and all, but they have some whack ignition and fuel settings in the tunes I got from them.
Sharad
Site Sponsor
Heh. I bought my DriverMod in Dayton, Ohio too. 
The 12-sec stockers are getting 2.0 or quicker 60-foot times. You also have to rip those gears.
Sticky tires, control arms, ORX, tune, adjustable shocks... those are all beneficial.
The 12-sec stockers are getting 2.0 or quicker 60-foot times. You also have to rip those gears.
Sticky tires, control arms, ORX, tune, adjustable shocks... those are all beneficial.
justinsstang
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Heh. I bought my DriverMod in Dayton, Ohio too.
The 12-sec stockers are getting 2.0 or quicker 60-foot times. You also have to rip those gears.
Sticky tires, control arms, ORX, tune, adjustable shocks... those are all beneficial.
Why say O/R X specifically instead of off-road mid pipe (i.e. H pipe or Prochamber)
I don't think you'll reduce your time with an X over an H or prochamber... Do tell me if I'm wrong thoughMost aftermarket H and X pipes will will yield more TQ and HP compared to the factory exhaust, regardless of brand or type. Either could be a good choice. Keep in mind though... the X or H pipe is part of the exhaust scavenging and equalizes the exhaust pulses.
An X-pipe typically will yield a very small amount more peak HP, compared to an H, because it is increasing scavenging and overall exhaust flow rates. Unfortunately, this reduces back-pressure, compromising torque, meaning your overall acceleration and mid-range performance will suffer a bit.
An H-pipe will yield a very small amount more TQ, compared to a X, because it keeps the back-pressure up, but does not scavenge as well. This means you will get better acceleration and mid-range performance with an H-pipe, but the overall peak HP is reduced. An aftermarket H will be better than the factory H due to the connecting pipe openings being much, much smaller on the factory pipes than the actual exhaust diameter. The aftermarket pipes are typically almost full size connector openings.
A Prochamber (in my experience) produces less HP and TQ compared to a standard X or H pipe (including factory stock), but typically sounds much better.
Since he is looking to accelerate faster, we know HP is your top speed and TQ is how fast you get there, IMHO the H-pipe is going to be the way to go.
Rather than buying new hardware for the last car I did, I just simply cut the ports on the stock H-pipe to almost 2.5 inches, compared to the 1.6 inches it was. I was very happy with sound and performance.
EDIT: Something else to think about is LT's. If you plan on getting long tube headers, don't bother buying an H or X pipe. Buy a complete LT kit that includes the cats (if desired) and the X-pipe. I say this because companies like American Racing Headers design the complete system to work together to make the maximum amount of torque and horsepower. It will be a bit more expensive, but you are talking about making 40+ RWHP and 30+ RWTQ after a tune.
An X-pipe typically will yield a very small amount more peak HP, compared to an H, because it is increasing scavenging and overall exhaust flow rates. Unfortunately, this reduces back-pressure, compromising torque, meaning your overall acceleration and mid-range performance will suffer a bit.
An H-pipe will yield a very small amount more TQ, compared to a X, because it keeps the back-pressure up, but does not scavenge as well. This means you will get better acceleration and mid-range performance with an H-pipe, but the overall peak HP is reduced. An aftermarket H will be better than the factory H due to the connecting pipe openings being much, much smaller on the factory pipes than the actual exhaust diameter. The aftermarket pipes are typically almost full size connector openings.
A Prochamber (in my experience) produces less HP and TQ compared to a standard X or H pipe (including factory stock), but typically sounds much better.
Since he is looking to accelerate faster, we know HP is your top speed and TQ is how fast you get there, IMHO the H-pipe is going to be the way to go.
Rather than buying new hardware for the last car I did, I just simply cut the ports on the stock H-pipe to almost 2.5 inches, compared to the 1.6 inches it was. I was very happy with sound and performance.
EDIT: Something else to think about is LT's. If you plan on getting long tube headers, don't bother buying an H or X pipe. Buy a complete LT kit that includes the cats (if desired) and the X-pipe. I say this because companies like American Racing Headers design the complete system to work together to make the maximum amount of torque and horsepower. It will be a bit more expensive, but you are talking about making 40+ RWHP and 30+ RWTQ after a tune.
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Boaisy
Dark Knight
Both Kooks and ARH offer X and H pipe variants with their headers, so you can still go either way.
However, what has been said between the two is pretty much correct. Lethal Performance ran both of their sets (Kooks makes the pipes, but these work with factory headers), and showed at most 3 HP/4.6 TQ less on the O/R H with an Airraid intake and Lund tune. At that point, unless you are OCD, it comes down to which sound you prefer the mid-pipe to modulate. Generally, the H-Pipe does provide better acceleration and mid-range though (the H's used in the test isn't the version that is joined at the intersection like THIS ONE).
http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...-Lethal-Performance-Offroad-H-amp-X-Pipe-Test
However, what has been said between the two is pretty much correct. Lethal Performance ran both of their sets (Kooks makes the pipes, but these work with factory headers), and showed at most 3 HP/4.6 TQ less on the O/R H with an Airraid intake and Lund tune. At that point, unless you are OCD, it comes down to which sound you prefer the mid-pipe to modulate. Generally, the H-Pipe does provide better acceleration and mid-range though (the H's used in the test isn't the version that is joined at the intersection like THIS ONE).
http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...-Lethal-Performance-Offroad-H-amp-X-Pipe-Test
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Yes, there was again in power. The gain in sound wasn't volume, but the fact that the popping and gurgling was gone and the tone changed ever so slightly to a deeper tone.
You will never see the gains of replacing the stock cats with high-flows unless you do just that, but if you plan on selling a car soon and don't want to have to spend a bunch of money or time to "return to stock", its a great mod. I knew I was selling the 2013 in less than 2 years, so I did modest, easy to undo mods.
That particular car, I changed the clutch line to braided SS, upgraded the LCA's, sway bar relocation kit, JLT CAI, Opened up the H, dyno tuned it and slapped 28" ET Streets on some Race Stars. That car went from 13.29 at 112 with a 2.2+ 60' to 12.62 at 108 with a 1.79 60'.
You will never see the gains of replacing the stock cats with high-flows unless you do just that, but if you plan on selling a car soon and don't want to have to spend a bunch of money or time to "return to stock", its a great mod. I knew I was selling the 2013 in less than 2 years, so I did modest, easy to undo mods.
That particular car, I changed the clutch line to braided SS, upgraded the LCA's, sway bar relocation kit, JLT CAI, Opened up the H, dyno tuned it and slapped 28" ET Streets on some Race Stars. That car went from 13.29 at 112 with a 2.2+ 60' to 12.62 at 108 with a 1.79 60'.
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