Inner tie rod questions

[cavero]

I'm amazed at how little I can actually find on this doing searches. I'm getting ready to do my inner tie rods and have a question about the "rack and pinion bellows clamps" as ford calls them, or boot clamps to the rest of us.

3k662 and 3C650 in the diagram:

I found in the FSM that they say to replace the boot clamps with new ones when you change the inner tie rods.

How necessary is this? The outer clamp (16mm on the tie rod shaft) looks like it can be saved. What about the inner band clamp (66mm on the steering rack)?

It's turning out to be a real PITA to try and source them from the dealer --they all have to be special ordered which requires means they won't be in till mid-next week and I need to do this work this weekend. Any good ideas for replacements I can get from auto zone or the like?

Thanks in advance

 

[cavero]

Actually looks like i might be able to use a universal CV boot clamp

 

[Low Dogg]

When I did mine, I just used zip ties. Worked like a charm.

 

[skwerl]

When I did mine, I just used zip ties. Worked like a charm.

I was about to suggest this, got treed. It's a dust/grease boot. A zip tie will work perfectly. This is why nobody stocks the high dollar special order clamps.

 

[cavero]

You bring up a fair point.

Another question:

Arent' these outer tie rod ends just press in? I tried using the damn extractor tool and its deforming the top of the stem but the damn thing isn't budging

 

[skwerl]

On my outer tie rod ends I just took the nut off and tapped it out with a hammer. It pops out with very little effort. Then unscrew it off the tie rod.

 

[cavero]

I wish I had it so easy. I tried a rubber mallet first. Then a regular hammer with a block of wood (it split the wood) then just the hammer. Then I bought the extractor. Check out the top of the stud:

 

[skwerl]

This picture shows a hex on the tie rod end just below the steering arm. Maybe it's threaded in? Have you tried putting a wrench on it and turning it?

 

[cavero]

Nope, just looks like it's a retainer for the bumpsteer washers.

I'm not sure if I want to use heat or not. I'm afraid it might damage the rod ends

 

[skwerl]

If I were doing it, I'd put a wrench on that hex part and see if I could break the tie rod end loose. PB Blaster on top as well.

 

[thunderstang]

+1 on the PB blaster.
I love that stuff, just give it a good spray every few hours and it will work it's way in. If I ever knock them out like that I leave the castle nut on the very top, it gives you a bigger target when using a BFH.

 

[cavero]

Gotta love that blaster, true.

I'm not sure if I'm going to do the tie rods right now, after all. I put the car back together with its new struts (Koni yellow) and rebuilt strut mounts (Steeda HD), and the shake is 95% gone. In a straight line the car's wheel is steady up through 90. Go around a curve at 75+ and it starts ( ( (((( )))) ) ) again.

Think I found my problem though. I had one wheel off the ground and just started shaking the wheel side to side. Then I traced where the clunk felt the strongest down to the front control arm bushing

 

[Fuerte]

You can go to a parts store and rent a front end service lit and it comes with various pit arm, and tie rod end removers. I couldn't get my off with a hammer and with the smallest remover I got it out in a few seconds.

Sent from my HTC6500LVW using Tapatalk 2

 

[cavero]

Something different from what I have in the middle pic on post #7?

 

[86GT351]

What you need to do with a decent size hammer hit the knuckle just below where the threads stop. Hit the side of it and hit it somewhat hard. This will cause it to break free. The issue you have now is the tip of the stem is now mushroomed and you are not going to get the nut back on!

 

[cavero]

Ah. I can see thy you'd think that. I forgot to post that I cut the top of the stem off with a dremel and blended the threads back in so the nut is back on right now.

Great suggestion, I'll give that a whack (pun intended) the next time I can get under the car

 

[86GT351]

Ah. I can see thy you'd think that. I forgot to post that I cut the top of the stem off with a dremel and blended the threads back in so the nut is back on right now.

Great suggestion, I'll give that a whack (pun intended) the next time I can get under the car

That is based on being in th business for 30 years or so! The impact of the hammer evetually will cause it to pop free. Use a decent size hammer though. Make sure it is a Dead Blow hammer.

 

[cavero]

That is based on being in th business for 30 years or so! The impact of the hammer evetually will cause it to pop free. Use a decent size hammer though. Make sure it is a Dead Blow hammer.

Well just tried using the 4 lb dead blow hammer, no joy

 

[86GT351]

Did you spray them with PB Blaster? Also do you have a torch availability?


Just to double check. Are you hitting the knuckle where my poorly drawn arrow is pointing?

 

[cavero]

Yes on all counts. I actually took the brake rotor and heat shield off do I could really wind up and hit it good, then squirted PB on it. I started using a quasi golf swing to really wind into it. gave up after half an hour.